Zs-ondabrain

Left side... right side.... is flipped over so the right side mounting tubes (that the bushings slide on) are the same as the left side in relation to front and rear. Confused yet? Try these instead, Dave

What Arne said, no such thing as Left and right. That's what makes it a great part.

I got 5 kids over here, Pretty sure I can show a diff who is boss too. But seriously though, a solid oak or similar wood or a solid lip with a dead blow should knock it loose without any real damage to the aluminum. And the real this putty knife may work, if you can get it between the metals without the knife bending. Good luck.

Put some Muscle into it Mike, Beat the hell out of it and show it who's boss.

Check to see if your Rack shifted?

You can start a thread here in this very thread. you can also do a full on Cardomain.com page. Look below, in my signature, you'll see my 260Z project and my 240Z project. Dave

I added another picture for ya Julio. I used MS Paint to do the Coloring and Datsun. Freehand sucks but you can see where I'm going with it.

Looks fine to me. Thats the same way mine is on my 70'... Mbar behind the hangers. so picture 3 looks fine.. And everything lines up that way as well, right?

Looks great so far. I just found the thread or else I was gonna tell you torun a length of primary wire under the hatch glass weather stripping. Slide the wire just between the metal and rubber to lift the lip and allow the paint and clear to go under the lip for a more professional look. But, aparently, I'm too late. Oh well, still looks good. Also, What color are you gonna do on your ZG flares (noticed the cut fender and wheel arch area's)??? Dave

I can't help you with the GTR parts but I can Welcome you to the club. Almost 3 years without posting, wow, that takes patience. Good luck on the search for the rare parts, sounds like you'll need it. Dave

Thanks for the Plug Darrel. Dave, It is, as you say, only a temperary fix. Even the new fusebox will overheat, seen it a few times on the new MSA box already. Not saying you have to buy my upgrade, but I am saying that you need a relay in your Parking light circuit. Or this will keep you busy for a long time. Plug my PLH in and never worry about it again. Not to mention you won't even have to replace your fusebox because the PLH only uses a 12 volt signal at 0.30 amps. That means you won't have 15 amps going thru the fusebox or combo switch anymore. The relay will handle that current from now on. Think of it this way, $60 for the PLH at MSA Versus the $200 fusebox also at MSA. your choice. once again, not pushing my product, pushing the idea that a relay is what you really need, whether it's home made or store bought. Dave

typically about 3/32" to 1/8"

so I did a little more work on it and YES Loni, It is a Datsun Logo design. Here's the progress so far. I painted it with black primer to check m lines and see how it looked so far..... OH BTW.... Seriously considering using a cable driven Linear Actuator to open and close the lid and I'll remove the spring. Doing this will also eliminate the "Steal my gas" worry that I had.

Hydrolics!! That's Awesome Bob. I would have never have thought of that. but if the pilot bushing fits tight and the grease is thick enough, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Great idea Bob. Dave

"Cause I'm feeling so Fried, Like a Cheese Stick" sorry, had to.

Sounds like the BCCD or BCDD?? it's a wire in unit under the throttle body. When it goes bad, the idle will drop all the time or as soon as you let off the gas. Z_Tyler_Z's 76 280Z has one and it was messing up for a while there. Dave

I took an old POS screwdriver and used the grinder to turn it into a mini chisel with an inverted inner edge and the outer is still round. (Kinda like a straw that was cut down the middle, with a sounded shapr edge) Pound it between the bronze and the crank steel and the bearing folds in on itself and almost falls out on it's own. My .02 cents worth Dave

36.3 after the fuel filter up front. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34564

And I used to be ISO 9000 Certified for soldering SMT (Surface Mount Technology) ANYWAYS........ I wanted to see how the white LED's would look where they are, as I now know that I will be doing something similar on the 260Z project. I'll be using 5mm white LED's similar to the LED's I use on all my other LED upgrades. Probably go with a 5000mcd 5mm round 40 degree veiwing angle. same color as the Audi (white with a blue tint) Dave

Just start with the LED headlight Tom. here's one for ya..... http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=64057&langId=-1 -OR- http://www.m-99.co.uk/Car_Neon_LED_Lighting/H7_Headlight_Bulbs/h7_headlight_bulbs.html

If you're gonna buy a flasher, buy the electronic one. much better than the original. As stated above, much better, NEW, less resistance to operate, etc, etc.

I like it, looks natural and clean. do you use a filter on your camera or is there a setting for taking a picture of lights without the glare? Love the look!! Dave

Seen that one. I liked it too but wanted to be outside the bucket on this one. I have headlight covers and the light gets a little distorted. So I figured that following the curve of the bucket would give it a smoother, cleaner, crisper line. Thanks though, I couldn't remember who or where I saw that picture. Dave

I've always loved almost anything LED related. When Audi came out with the R8, the lights really caught my attention. I've also noticed a few other cars doing a similar touch under the headlights. Even a few Z cars had them. So when I went to Auto Zone today, I thought, How many people have something like this on their S30? I like to be different but at the same time, I really wanted this look on my Z, so I bought the 28" set (2) 14" strips for $24 ?? I used a paper towel with some rubbing alcohol on it and cleaned the painted area just above each bumper on the headlight buckets. I installed the new strip LED lights in the tight area between the bucket and bumper and had to use a plastic window stick to push it back and into place. Then used a roll of 1/4" painters tape to cover only the LED's on the strip, taped off the bumper and headlight buckets and painted the rest of the strip the same color as the buckets so the Black strip wouldn't stand out as much. Wired them into the Sidemarker connections in front of the radiator and waited till it got dark. The camera phone needs a glare filter as they look SO much better in person than on film. My Kodac broke so phone camera is all you get for now. They look sweet without the headlights on, right around sunset. The wife told me that so it must be true. in a few of the pictures, you can see there are 18 white LED's in a few of the reflections, which are closer to what they really look like. Damn I need a new camera with a filter. Dave

Exactly. There's just enough current to allow the flasher to power up once then it falls on it's face, due to bad contacts. I've not only seen it happen many times, but have experienced it many times as well. Led's WILL severely reduce the current (amps) running thru each circuit and demand less of the wires, contacts, switches, fuses, everything. I still do all the LED upgrades if anyone is interested. Your purchases allow me to donate to the site......... Just a thought. Dave