Zs-ondabrain

hollelujaw brotha. Elbow grease, sweat, tears and a whole lotta sanding and polish. Look at the carb forum, you'll see the domes I just did. They are small and still took about an hour and a half each. Those, compared to a whole valve cover = time and patience. Have fun, the end result is well worth the effort. Dave.

Modified, supercharged, LS1 Vette motor. But the stunts are the fun part, right?

And also find out if it's a 79' ZX or 77' Z. No such thing as a 77' ZX.

As you can tell from the pictures, the domes were in pretty bad shape. Just pay attension to the STEEL items like the steel shaft in the piston. The picture below is of the piston that came out of that one. It was pitted too badly to reuse, so it will now be used an an alignment tool for the 4-screw carbs I have. To bring the luster back, I found a long bolt (4.25" long) and 2 washers that were only slightly bigger in diameter, than the openings on the dome. (top one at 3/4" OD and the inner bottom one at 1/2" OD) both with a 5/16" bolt hole. Then give them both a 45 degree angle on the outer lip. This will seat them and center the bolt. I put a nut on there and snugged it down. I use a small benchtop drill press. Once it's in and can spin without distortion, or wobbling, I use the red Scotchbrite on a medium speed. DON'T HIT YOUR FINGERS on the spinning bolt flange near the bottom of the dome. I knock all the crap off with the scotchbrite pad and if it needs more surfacing, to remove fine cracks and such, I use 400 grit wetsanding paper, as it's a better quality than typical sandpaper. After the 400 grit, use the scotchbrite to clean a little more than I use Mothers Aluminum Wheel Polish on a soft cotton towel. For the upper vent tube area, I use a buffing pad to get the hard to reach areas and also down by the feet, where the drill press method does not work. Takes a little time and effort but as you can see, it's well worth it. I top it off with Miguires Cleaner wax to keep it shiney. The same process is similar for the piston but Do Not use anything stronger than the scotchbrite. If you take away too much surface from the rings on the upper part, the piston will not work correctly and be worthless. You can also use the scotchbrite on the inside of the dome. I obviously had to do that on mine. Clean everything with brakeclean and you can wipe the inside out with ATF fluid on a clean soft cloth. Cleanliness is a good thing on the SU's. The Video covers almost every part of the SU and yes, the choke linkage has a few minutes of fame on the video. And Bruce hit it on the nose. DO ONE AT A TIME and use the other as a cheat. I personally know every part and where it goes but I still only do one carb at a time, until it's time to match the pistons and domes (fall rate) described on the DVD. I'm sorry it took so long for me to get ahold of Bruce at ZTherapy. Dave.

Get the vido and the rebuild parts from Bruce. I bought the DVD 2 weeks ago and have watched it 2 times. I've learned a lot and put video to practice. Here's the Carbs I'm working on this week. Before and after. From Yuck to Yeah!!! Thanks bruce, did you get my email? The pistons were stuck in the domes, the float bowls were full of white corrosion, Nothing moved before I got to it. Dave

So I wrote the buttmunch. And this is what I wrote. Nice, to the point and I thought I was doing him a favor. "#2442 is a 70', NOT a 71'. Most likely made around Feb of 70' The 150HP 240Z put out the LEAST amount of horse power. That 150HP is at the crank, NOT the rear wheels. The 74' 260Z put out another 10HP more and the 280Z's came with about 165 to 170 at the Crank. The 280ZX, in 1979, put out just a few HP more than that, but only to compensate for the extra weight of the ZX body and its internal weight. I've owned Z's (3) for quite a while and make upgrade and performance items for the 240Z's. I appreciate you selling the car to someone who may or may not take it back to a more desirable shape. But please do a little research before making false statements that may lead to a very pissed off customer. Regards, Dave. " And this is what I got back in return. What an arse. "THATS NOT WHAT I RED ,AND UNLESS YOUR BUYING THE DAM THING MIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS ,I DONT THINK ANY BODY IS GOING TO GET PISSED OVER $250 YOU JACK arse!! MIND YOUR OWN !! " Please, Somebody else, hell, as many of you as possible, write him and tell him the same thing I did. Just to jerk his chain. He Obviously needs it. Dave.

I already stated, it's an 11/69 and the 6 digit thing was a stutter of his finger. have a great week guys, Dave

Easier said then done on some Z's. I had to destroy the drum on the 260Z to get it off. But you're right, sounds like a shoe slipped off or something. Dave

That's weird. but I'm not that familiar with the real old Z's (mostly 69's) mine is an 8/70.

Because it's a new (Non-Datsun) Dizzy You'll have to make your own timing marks. Twist it till it's dead center, then make a mark on the Unilite and the timing plate on the neck. Mine is 180 out because of where the Vaccum advance pot sat on the Unilite. So I twisted it to my own liking. Do about a 7 degree advance then try and start it. As long as you have #1 up on the compression stroke, and the rotor and #1 plug are lined up, you should be able to dial it in quickly. Have fun, it's the best damn thing I ever installed on my 240Z. I haven't even had to change the rotor or cap. The brass tab on the rotor is changable and flip-able. Soild brass tips inside the cap stay clean and are easily cleaned as well. Dave.

It should be in the door jamb and yes, it should say 69'. I believe. Right front strut tower, door jam and the firewall, near the brake booster. Go to http://Zhome.com and look at the register. You'll find that # 00374 has a production date of 11 / 69 And # 00387 also has a date of 11/69' Dave

Or correct. Isn't an OPTIMA a dry cell battery? They will fix it or make it write. I understand your being upset and totally agree. But keep in mind that some Alternators are BAD, right out of the box. It happens. Dave.

I just wrote him and explained all the false facts. $2442 is a 70' not a 71' as stated. He also claimed that the 240Z's 150HP had the most HP of all Z's up to the 300ZX. WRONG. I told him I appreciate him selling the car to someone else, who may or may not bring her back to a better former glory that it is at the moment. Dave.

Take it to a local shop and have them do a Bench test on it. If you bought it from MSA, they typically honor the warrenty. You can also ask them about a full refund on the Alternator if it's bad and buy one locally. And send them back their alt. Sounds like the Internal VR is bad. It happens. Not their fault, but it just happens. Delute the acid with a mix of water and baking soda. It will nuetralize the acid better than just water. Dave.

Not sure of the milage but we left Marysville, WA. for MSA at about 7am and got a motel in Sacramento, CA. that night. We left on a thursday morning and did the barbeque in Anaheim on Friday morning.

Occasionally, They will let you pump your own gas BUT they have to stand there and watch you. The last time I let them pump my gas, the bastard wasn't paying attension and Rammed the nozzle into my paint (around the door lip) and Chipped it. THEN he left the damn flap hanging there when he closed the fuel door. And that was the third attendant to do that. I hate Oregon gas station.

I had to deal with multiple layers of old paint when I was drilling out some holes and here's what I did. Use a heat gun to slightly warm or heat the area. This will soften the paint enough to keep if from flaking or chipping when you drill or punch it with an awl. Mark the hole with a black marker, warm the area then tape it and drill it. No flaking or chipping. Worked for me, Dave.

Your picture doesn't show up up. And you're probably right, I hold an average of 75 to 80 MPH for as long as the gas tank will allow, then fill it up and go again. I have no problem driving for 12 to 16 hours, with the occasional rest or fuel stop. I'm crazy like that. We'll both do the MSA thing at the same time one of these years. Dave.

Make sure you're running the Ballast resistor. The Unilite is designed for use with the ballast resistor and should not receive any more than 10volts, MAX. If you ran the unilite on 12 volts for a while, it just cost you $90 for a new module. OOPS. Brown to ground Green to coils NEG. Red to green/white MSD Unilite Promastr Ballast wiring.bmp Unilite Ballast wiring.bmp

That helps a lot. I'd like to keep the same size wheel and tires all the way around but might have to sacrifice the fronts a little. Thanks guys, it does help, Dave.

Not gonna make it this year. Trying to finish the 260Z and things have picked up around here as well. It's just not in the budget or allotted time frame. God knows I need a vacation about then but my top priority if finishing the 260Z in time for Canby, I hope? Great to see ya last year Goose. Dave.

I tend to watch anything "Tire" related on the site as I'm building a 260Z in the garage and want to do as large a tire and wheel as possible. I'd also like to keep then the same, front to rear. I have 225/50ZR16's on all 4 corners of the 70' and they fit beautifully. There is no rubbing or bottoming out issues and the car was lowered 1.5" with no problems. I'd love to go a little wider in the rear of the 260Z but I'm thinking ZG flares are in order. So my question to Arne and all Tire wise guys is this...... 1) The 260Z will also be lowered like the 70' but I WILL have ZG Flares. WHich will require cutting the fender lip off, Will a 245/45ZR17 on 17"X8" wheels fit?? ( 2) if so, what should the offset be to clear the springs and strut assm.??? 3) If those will fit the rear, will the same size in front, fit as well without rubbing?? Are these HybridZ questions?? Any help is appreciated, as always. Dave.

B on dizzy to wire that normally goes to the (+) on the coil C on dizzy to the White MDS wire ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Small red on MSD to the same wire that B is connected to orange on MSD to coil (+) Black on MSD to coil (-) Large red on MSD to a fused line from the Battery Large Black on MSD to a good ground point (bolt it down) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Don't forget to instal an MSD Tach adaptor Small white to white on MSD 6A Small red to Small red on MSD

Fantasy: I'll make that pile of parts into a thing of beauty, in no time at all. Reality: No time is exactly what you'll have. Time and money are a thing of beauty, neither of which can be found in my tool box, or wallet. But the parts will still be there, waiting for you. Fantasy: You own a beautiful car and your wife loves you both. Reality: Your beautiful wife can get real ugly when you spend more time and money on the car, instead of her and the "To-Do" list. Fantasy: You'll get all the help you need at CZCC. Reality: You'll get all the advice and opinions you'll ever need, But unless you're Will and Larry, you're on your own, Cowboy.

Did he say relays?......LOLLOLLOL Sorry, that's just funny to me. Anyways. Go with the best of each item. Best dash and Known working harness. Definately worth the effort. Almost sounds like a power issue at the fusebox. Not too sure on this one, without all the details. Dave.