Zs-ondabrain

None of them are correct so far. I have a 79' ZX 5-speed R200 3.90 diff 225/50ZR16's At 3000 RPM's my speed is exactly 80mph and I've done the mile on the frreway (using markers, in exactly 1 minute @ 60 MPH. My speedo is dead-on. So far, the second chart from E-ticket says my tires are 24.9" tall when they are new and 24.25" tall it also says that my 3.90 diff and 79' 5-speed are WAY off and I should only be doing 65 MPH (ish) Is there a scale that actually works out there. or is my Z retarded?

I'm thinking LOCK WASHER. anyone else?

And since Michael Jackson is 75% plastic, it's been said that they will melt him down and make childrens toys, so they can play with HIM for once. HAHAHAHAHAHA....................

I'd hit it with a hair dryer for a little while then give it another 24 hours before gluing your rubber back on. Just remember that some glues actually speed up rusting, so let it fully cure before gluing. Dave

Someone on the same forum said they were "BAMF" flares. Not sure what the difference is between BAMF, IMSA and ZG Flares. Try this link, it not only suggest Sales but has pictures for reference and instal. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/1916069

Standard driven 260Z (not a racer or driven like one) Eibach PR lowering springs (MSA Bought) About 1.5" drop from stock height. KYB Struts 17 X 10 Rota RB w/ 35mm Offset (I think) 25mm front and 19mm rear sway bars So stiffer but comfy and lower but not extremely low. correct height tires but much wider (I'm thinking 275 or 265 / on 45 series 17's.) What is the correct height of the stock tire (in inches, tall?) and what combo is the correct one for a 17" wheel ___/__? (265/45? or 265/50?) Anyone know for sure.?? I'm doing the ZX rear disck brake conversion, but should I mount the wheels directly onto the stub axle or should I use a plate that is the same thickness as the previous brake drum??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

See there, I knew it had something to do with carbs and valves. I thought 3 sounded weird for valves. Thanks Mike, I figured it would be you or Ron who answered the question. Dave

Exactly!! and funny enough, I need to pull the springs on the rears to install the bump stops, that I found on the shelf, AFTER I assembled the rear struts..... LOL Oh well, at least they are clean and not on the car yet, before I found my mistake.

Either way, it's great to see the Museum getting publicity. But unfortunately, he basically was repeating the "432" phrase with the interviewer and then finished by saying "BIG". So he basically agreed with him that it was a 432 ci block. In his defence, I'm sure age and nerviousnes had a play in his mistake. I'm sure I would also make a few mistakes when under the pressure of an unprepared interview. But like I said, at least the public has a few better ideas of what that car was that "Screamed by them" on the freeway.... Ya know? And to end the confusion for us who are NOT in the know, What exactly is a 432?? I was told that it was a 4 cyl, 3 valve (per cylinder), 2 carb, motor. How far off was I missinformed??? Anyone?

I got a lot of tips from "The Definitive Thread" That Blue Z is absolutely Gorgeous and also a big inspiration for wanting to do this and show the work involded in the process. The HybridZ thread left a few unanswered questions that were very apparent while doing the first mock-ups. Where to start? How high for each specific aplication and tire size? Lowered car or not? The variences are infinate.... I have an idea of what tire and wheel combo I will have but doing the ZG flares first will help when measuring to fill the arch and well, in a manner that will look and operate best. And I figure that with an additional 2.5+ inches of upper clearance, I won't have hitting or rubbing issues with wider tires. **ALSO** The design of the MSA flares was a major factor in determiniing where and how they would sit and be mounted. They were basically flat and need to be bent inwards to match up with the fender lips, which also makes the flare more rigid and tight. Who knows, I might not even like the look when all is said and done, but that's next year and by that time, I may not even give a crap and just want to drive the damn car, finally.

OK, So I woke up late and got to work anyways. I bolted the flare to the remaining wheel well. And in the process of all this, I discovered just how bad my Dogleg was and went to work on that as well. I'm also filling the 260Z bumper shock holes and the fender indents on the quarter panels. Hope the pictures help any and all. Dave

So I broke down and finally bought the MSA ZG fender flares for my 260Z project. I hope to have the car done and driving down the road by spring of 2010. But we all know how that "Hope" can be changed to "wanted to be done" So after looking at as many pictures as I could find, I think I figured out which flare goes where, as they are NOT marked with any kind of identifying marks to give you a clue. The fronts and rears are different so that makes that part easier. (Fronts are skinnier than the rears) The rears have a wider section on one part of the top than the other. The wider section, for some reason goes towards the doors. (I swapped flares for 1/2 hour till I came to the conclusion previously stated) So my first post is going to be ONLY of the rear left fender. You have to pull (bend) the flaretowards the center to get the flares to line up with the wheel well, as they are molded Wide. Narrowing them bows the top out for that flared look. I test fitted then and clamped them in place till I could drill and screw them in place, temporarily. I drew the outline first, then measured about 1-1/8th down (in) and drew my cut line. As per instructions found on Hybridz.org I only cut the outer metal first. REMEMBER!!! The Z's are a Unibody car and the folded fenders hold the outer skin to the inner body, SO it must be welded back together or you'll lose the integrity of the body. So at the widest point, I gain about 2.5" of clearance for the 17X9.5 ROTA wheels that are planned for the future. So the outer sheet metal is removed and the inner fender is cut with enough hangover to fold the metal upwards and be able to tack it to the outer metal as shown above and below. I'm going to bed but will keep adding to this as I go along. I promise. I'm also doing the doglegs at the same time so it may take a while longer than previously thought.

1 is a condensor and it is replacible, I could have sworn it was on a black wire but I could be wrong. It's typically mounted to the same bolt as the Voltage regulator. Doesn't matter how you connect it to the correct wire, as long as you connect it. 2 looks like an A/C relay. don't take my word for it though. Arne would know before me. 3 are you sure it's not a Yellow/white wire? like the insolated one near the motor mount? Your turn signal flasher might also be in the upper left hand kick panel area and has a white, 2 wire connector. So if it's not on the steering column support, look to the left.

If it's at all possible, give it a smack with a hammer. Not too hard but enough to break loose any rust that may be locking the bolt in place. Let the bolt soak for no less than 1 hour before attempting to remove it. Or overnight as stated above.

Consider us Verbal idiots. A picture and good description can mean the difference between the right and totally wrong "Fix advice" There are 4 bolts on the thermostat housing, 2 on top and 2 holding the main housing to the head. Which 2 are you refering too?

I'd say you're off to a damn good start there Logan. Congrats!! $1800 is a damn good price for a series 1 in decent shape.

The front calipers are from an 85' Toyota 4x4 and the writing on the calipers is " S12W " and it will bolt right up to your solid rotor in the front. No modification needed. If you want bigger, go with the S12 calipers and Vented rotors, Not sure on the specifics. Also buy a set of Earls Stainless Steel braided brake lines. (about $80 ?? I think.) There are lots of choices for the rear. and I'll let the other guys tell you about those..... Guys?? I'm personally going with a set of 81' 280ZX rear calipers and rotors, to be bolted up to the rear using adaptor brackets that I got from a guy on http://www.hybridz.org There are full writeups both here at CZCC and hybridz, Use the search button and edumacate yourself on everything before making a final decision, as none of them are cheap conversions. QAlso look into the bigger ZX master cylinder and proportioning valve.

I gotta agree with Carl on this one. I realize that being on the east coast or close to it is a real pisser when it comes to a "minimal rust" Z, and getting as far as you have, only to go look for another one in better shape, can be as previously said, Dishearting. BUT...... 1. Take everything that is salvageable, off the car and set it aside. 2. Find another shell or better for a decent price. 3. Compare the parts of the 2 cars, as you dissasemble the #2 car. Set the best parts aside and sell the remaining parts to help make up the cost of the second shell. The experience will move along much faster, now that you know how to disseasemble the Z's. Toss the broken stuff, sell all unused parts, and find a local place that will pay for your salvage steel. It'll all be well worth it in the end. The fun and learning curve of building your own Z. Especially when people ask you "Damn!!, Where'd you get such a beautiful car" You can say to them "We Built it from the ground up" Keep your chin up, and your eyes open, Dave

Sorry again to Arne for the idiot who stole your latch. Some peoples kids huh? It was good to see Arne and wife, Gary, Tony and Hubby, Mike G, Enrique, Roger and Tara and all the rest of you today. We finally made it home as I almost daZed off on the way home. So I did a pit stop and woke up before hitting the road again. ** ALSO ** We ended up following the "1st Place Winner" (White 240Z, stock class) Canadian Plates, being followed by a Goldish Brown 260Z 2+2, from Tacoma to Marysville. It was pretty cool with all 3 of us flying thru traffic in tandom. The Looky Loos were abundant.... I spent so much time talking to Greg and other people (who were interested in the car and it's Many upgrades and Unique items) that I did'nt get much time to look around like I usually do. But for the few cars that I did see, It was worth it, as usual. And being part of the "Rest Area Contingent" and driving in the LOOOONG line of Z cars makes it worth it even more each year. Mike, don't forget to take measurements (volts) before and after installing the PLH. Good to see ya again. Car looks great!! Dave

UHM.... Cruise control?? What's that? BTW, I've got 2 decent HL switch cases for ya, just find me and remind me..

Yup, and what about the guy with the Infinty V8? That 240Z friggin rocks. it's called the 450Z. It has a VH45 in it.

I'm gonna leave home a little earlier this time. I don't need another $100 ticket. I was doing the same speed as everyone else, but my Z stood out over all the rest of the cars. Federal way sucks.

You may be S.O.L. then. Ask Enigma, as he is in the middle of this instal and so is IBZNYA. I have 16x7's so I'm not sure of the smallest size wheel that'll fit over the 4-piston Calipers

Ditto on that!!! Those are PREEEEEETY. Now ya just need to do the whole car in that color. Maybe? no? OK.... would be different though. Nice Eye Candy Enigma.

Ask Bruce at ZTherapy, he should be able to point ya in the right direction. Somehow, I keep finding different sizes when I rebuild carbs for people. Dave