Zs-ondabrain

"Faster than a speeding ticket and slower than a GT-R" "Faster than a GEO and slower than a Ferrari" "Faster than a Sneeze and slower than that drop of Blue Port-o-let water that hits your sphincter" ROFL

Those look like the Heater Blower motor power wire and the Cigarette lighter wire. Just a guess. Dave

sniff sniff.... Somebody cooking spam in here??

The only thing that comes to mind is that large red wire is connected directly to the heater blower motor or the speed control switch. and to the fusebox. It's a basically self contained system so so it's gonna have power, and a few grounds to control the speed. So if that wire is coming from the fusebox and is ignition controlled, Should be a Blue wire, it should be Fused with an inline fuse and going to the blower motor's Red wire, via the speed control switch harness. The black wire on the motor should be grounded. The Wiring diagram is not very helpfull when it comes to What wire is what. Dave

I just PM'd you. Now that I see the picture again, same rules apply. Once the VR is pulled and the stock wiring is ok on the engine harness side, I don't see an issue with doing the ZX alt swap using the ZX adaptor plug. Dave

The Antenna is grounded at the antenna so there won't be a ground wire in the kick panel harness. If you use the stock electric fuel pump wires, just make a fused Loop at that connector. That will connect the fuel pump wire to the fusebox. Use a 15 amp fuse, I believe. That fuse is not grounded. Just turn the key on and test it with a test light. It could be blown so test both ends that go into the fuse holder. The stock radio is grounded by bolting it to the body when it's installed. If it has a black wire, then ground that as well. The antenna wires go into a 3-way toggle switch above or beside the radio. ON-OFF-ON or Up and Down with a nuetral middle. Dave

It is IF you place the jack near the rear of the diff, so the weight is held more by the Mustache bar than the front diff mount. it's all in the position of the jack, Dave

It IS a fuel pump connector. You can clearly see the Green wire on 1 terminal of the T connector. I too have an Early 70' 240Z and it has the optional connector and if he looks near the fuel tank, he'll find that same green wire taped to the fuel level sending unit harness. No S30 radio ever used a Green wire, especially one that looks to be about 16 or 14 gauge. As I said, it's an Optional wire and connector. Dave

Don, I make the Alternator adaptor and the Headlight upgrade harness. When your son installed the new switch, did he connect the black wire on the Turn signal switch to the Black wire on the combo switch?? That is your headlights Ground wire for controlling Hi and Lo beam. If you Need the Fuel pump relay because you have an electric fuel pump, then you need to find the Warm relay under the dash with a Yellow wire going into the connector. This wire can be traced back to the Voltage regulator. The regular VR sends 12 volts when the alternator is running to turn on the fuel pump relay. When you swap out the old alternator for an internally regulated alternator, the Adaptor plug sends a constant signal, thus leaving the relay on and killing the battery. You need to cut the yellow wire near the relay connector and run it into an ignition controlled relay or a flip switch to shut off the relay when not in use. If you choose to use an ignition controlled relay, wire it like this....... Cut the yellow ire near the fuel pump relay, with enough wire to connect another wire to each side. Cut Yellow wire from the relay to pin 87 on a standard 12VDC automotive relay Cut Yellow wire from the voltage regulator to pin 30 on the relay Connect a black grounded wire to pin 85 on the relay Connect a Red? or any other color wire to Pin 86 on the relay and the other end of that wire to the ignition switch Black/white wire This will allow your ignition switch to turn the relay on and on. Dave P.S. Check the fuse on the Headlight Upgrade harness, should be a 30 amp green fuse. Make sure the small connector with a red, white and black wire is going to the harness connector for the headlights and the larger connector is going to the headlights. Also make sure the 2 ground wires are bolted Down real good to an exposed metal area (inner vallance bolts on the inner frame area.

#1 looks like your Fuel Pump connector. It gets a fused loop connector to make the pump work. #2 Looks like the correct area for the fog light switch wires (one red and one green/white) #3 I think those were slow blow fuses. Protects the radio from surges. and the other obvious use. Bottom picture looks like the cigarette lighter + wire. Almost ANY wires that are taped to a harness with BLUE tape, are optional wires. ie: fog lights, fuel pump, A/C, Door panel lights. (You might find a red/blue or green/white wire near each door on the harness but they are unused Door light wires that were never ran on the early Z's. I rebuild harnesses, so I speak from experience. I'm sure it was said, but always list the build date when you're asking questions of an electronic nature. They made so many changes over the years that you have to be specific. If you're Z is an early 240Z, then the last picture is likely the lighter wire. Dave

I think they got you handled. if you cut the yellow near the relay, then yellow from the VR to 30, yellow to the relay on 87, ground 85 and run an ignition wire to 86. Basically what all ya'll said. Dave

I say go to a 2.5" exhaust. Seems to be perfect for the Inline 6 and definately allows it to breathe at higher RPMS. OK, so your dwell and points are all set.... I discovered a simple solution to alot of distributor issues..... Pull the Distributor and the sleeve it goes into that bolts to the front cover of the motor. Use brake cleaner to remove ALL the surface grease and oil on all 3 peices (front cover, sleeve and distributor) Then surface them a little using the red Scotch-Brite pads to make the best Metal to metal Contact. Check the steel plate on the bottom of the distributor as well. Then Put is all back together and bolt it down tight without breaking the bolts. The Problem is the grease, dirt and oil minimize the Ground needed for the points to transfer the signal as well as needed. Once you get a good or better ground, the power to the points will work better and hopefully give you a higher RPM range. I just did this to tomg61's 240Z because he couldn't Rev over 3000 RPM. Cleaned his Distributor and ground surfaces, cleaned his power wires and battery cables and she hits 7000 RPM without ANY problem. The 240Z's have bad Grounding problems. Fix these and you'll be surprised at the results. Especially in the ignition department. Dave

It doesn't. It sounds more like an alternator surge that may have messed with them. The other possibility is what ever fuse powers both gauges and the switch???? I would suggest looking at the power source (fuses) first. The 3605 sounds like the full COMPlete unit and the 3600 sounds like just the mechanicals but not the wiring or electrical.... Just a guess though. The later, longer wired switch can easily be used to replace your stock one, without any issues other than looping the wire and making it fit in the clamshell. I would also suggest an electronic Flasher to minimize resistance. If you can find no burnt areas on the switch, it could have been grease on the contact that finally let the smoke out of the jar, so to speak. Dave

My Rota RB 17x9.5's and 8's, My Eagle Alloy 16x7's and my original (got with the car) Slotted wheels.

Where did ya find the picture? The window sticker looks like it says "Flatline Motorsport" so do a little back tracing and go from there.

I get comments on the exhaust all the time. It's either "Is that a V8?" "Dude! That sounds sweet" "ya, I heard ya coming, thought it was a muscle car or something bigger" I tell them what it is, they look surprised every time.

Not really sure of the issue, if the VR is going to be pulled. However, if the engine harness before the plug is cut into, then I would do whatever it takes to back trace whatever it is going to. The POS (Previos Owner Syndrome) is an issue that most of us have had to deal with, at one point or another. The 2 wires on the plug on the alternator can easily be found on the VR plug. The B/W?? is tapped by the condensor, next to the VR. That can stay there and left bolted to teh fender. The w/b and b/w deal with the ignition?? and that's what the diode in the plug (ZXP) is for, to keep the dreaded "Run-on" from happening. I'm refering to the issue that some owners face when doing the swap. It can cause the car to start but NOT shut off. So trace the Tapped wire and see if it is of any importance to the new aloternator or ZXP (adaptor plug) Dave

The 2) 280Z owners above found spare headlight connectors of another 280Z (the white, round, 3-wire style) or had me make a Hard-wire version for them to wire into the car, after cutting off their connectors. If you have a spare set of those, send them and $125 and I'll make you a plug in harness. Pictured below are the 280Z plugs that I would need (on the left) or the 260Z plugs (on the right) PM me for more info. Dave

Why would you run 12 ga thru the Firewall? If you want the *Optional* extra relay for foglights, I do make a 3 relay harness for that. The turn on wire is the stock Red foglight wire near the horn wires, on a 240Z. Then you tap that wire, connect it to the relay pack, and on the inside of the car, you find that same wire, which is already ran for you. Run that wire to a switch, and connect the green/white wire near it into the other end of the switch. The Upgrade harness has the extra wires for the fog or driving lights come out near the horns. It's that simple, Dave

All right, knock it off. I'm humbled already. This is why I do it guys. Every classic car has it's faults. Some more than others. I just happen to be fotunate enough to have learned enough over the years, to design and make things that help us along the way. It's basically as simple as this.... If I don't trust it in my own car, I sure as hell won't sell it or suggest to anyone. If you guys, and my other customers aren't happy, then I've failed you all and won't do business like that. That's why you all have access to my address, email and occasionally my phone number. I look forward to meeting as many of you as possible over the years. I've already met many of you and even had a few over for dinner. So if you're ever in the Neighborhood, Stop on my. Just email me first to make sure I'm home, and not at a Datsun Meet or something. Dave

So it looks like $6.50 + S/H But at least Greentrees got OEM bolts and Nuts, I didn't look to see how much the nuts were. But I'm sure it went over what I charged Greentrees. My only advice is invest in a can of Anti-Seize, coat EVERY bolt that you reinstal in your 240Z. Not a single bolt on my car is without a little Anti-seize. LOVE LOVE LOVE that stuff. Your quite welcome BTW. My pleasure, Dave

NO, not really. fenders doors, hatch, hood, glass, seats, carpet, motors, trans, suspension are all transplantable. Some minor mods may be needed but most parts work with the 260Z. Door latches are different on the mid to later 280Z's. As are a few other parts but it all depends on what you need. If you're gonna hold out for anything, hold out for a 240Z. Better, faster, lighter, stronger (sorry for the bionic man reference) but I just love the 240Z's. They are lighter, simpler and just better in my book but that's obviously just one mans opinion. We'll help you out no matter which S30 you choose, Dave

Lots of interchangable parts....... Now go buy the car. We'll help. Dave

They are on their way to you as we speak. I gotcha. Dave