240Zdragon72

Good day, I finaly got my Z to run. Now I am having a problem with the exterior lights. When the engine is running all the lights seem to have a strobe effect. Could this be the voltage regulator or the alternator? Also, my headlights come on and off when they please. the fuses are new and so are the bulbs. Any suggestions? Thanks.

This car is also in the X-box game Sega 2000 GT. I thought the paint was just for the game, I'm happy that it really exists.

I am 26, but I feel like I'm 50+

I removed the 3 bolt carbs and installed the 4 bolt ones that came with the car. Woulden't you know, the car runs...and not with the choke on this time. I was trying to get the idel set, but I could only get it to stableize at the first hash mark on the Uni-sun. Idel was way too high...judgeing from what the tach was reading (1700 rpm). I would "blip" the throttle and get a backfire from both carbs. Then at one point it would backfire through the exhaust. The car was running out of gas so I did it one last time and there was no backfire. This morning I am going to get gas and take her to the auto hobby shop and see if they can help me with the tuning. Thank you everyone who has helped me with my problem. Next time I promise not to spaz-out so much!

I pulled the plugs and looked to see what the condition was. The back 3 had some carbon on them, and the front 3 had carbon mixed with a lot of fuel. Something is not right...so I then took a wire brush and cleaned the carbon off and put the plugs back in. Shot a little starter fluid in the carbs for good measure. Had my friend crank the engine. It ran at a very good idle. I was excited and started to tune the carbs. The front carb was reading high on the Uni-sun guage. (It was at half choke while I was doing the tuning.) I turned the throttle screw on the carb down and then up to see if I can get it to come back to the middle. It stayed up top the whole time. I went to the back carb and it was not doing a dang thing. I placed my hand over the front of it to see if I could feel the air being sucked in. There was hardly any. I started to tune the back one to see if I could get it to change. I would turn a quarter of the way down on the throttle screw and the engine would die. Taking the choke off would also kill the engine. It looks like the front carb was doing all the work to keep the engine running. Ah Man! Back to the drawing board.... :tapemouth very frustrated

Hey Will, I too am interested. The ones I have from MSA, the rubber trim dosen't come close to the edge of the scoop. There is atleast a half inch gap in one place. Maybe I have it on wrong, but I went by the guage it came with. Good luck with the project.

For Christmas I got: - Sony Xplode CD/CD-R radio - Sony Xplode 6x9 speakers - two 6x9 boxes - T-shirt - JINCO Sweater - two model cars - set #2 Prismacolor Markers It was a very nice holiday. I hope everyone has a fun and safe New Year.

:tapemouth i feel like such an idiot. :stupid: I was hoping to get the engine running before I had fixed the hole. Now I see. I will put the real JB Weld on the hole in the morning. Thank you very much. During this whole thing I had forgotten that it did run pretty good when the hole was pluged.

"As the engine runs (very roughly while the choke is on) " I can't get the engine to even idle...... more like a crawl. Anyway I'll figure it out. :mad: I haven't touched the dist, carbs, or timing before the swap. Nothing. I really wish I could get it to run. I don't see why it would run in the old car, and not in the new one?

I have been fussing with this still. As the engine runs (very roughly while the choke is on), what looks to be "oil" or maybe "fuel" is dripping out of the exhaust ports from the cylider head. The new gasket is soaked in it. I can't tell a specific odor, a cross of fuel and oil. I called my local Z guy, Mike Bear, and he says that I may be flooding the head out and some of the gas is not being ignited and just leaking out. :tapemouth I have broken down and cleaned the carbs 2 times already and put new gaskets on. I have a feeling the needle is sitting too far in the nozzle that the only way the engine will get the fuel is by choking it. I have the option of buying SM needles and ZT nozzels. Would this help the problem or are the carbs a loss? Upset and feeling hopeless.......

What will the charges be to get them over to some of us in the States?

Zs, Could it be possable to check it while the engine is still in the car? If I remember correctly, the face plate might have to come off? I will have to look in my "How to rebuild your Datsun OHC" book again. Thanks!

What year of Maxima is the LD28 crank in?

I put some "weld" over the hole and waited a whole day until I started the engine. She fired right up again and this time there was hardly any smoke out the back. I tried to give it some gas but the back carb only "hissed" at me and the engine wanted to die. After running idel for around 5 minutes, The weld melted off and it was back to smoking and wanting to die out. Now, I thought it might have been the carbs. Having a spare set from the other motor (SU 4 bolt round tops), I put some damper oil in and mounted them to the engine......Nothing. Tried to start her for a minute and all I would get was backfire through the carbs. Having to hold the choke on the carbs (choke wires cut off :tapemouth ), my Wife was turning the key. It started in choke and I held it for a while. Approx. 2 minutes. I then let off and the engine came back down to idel....bogged out and died. I looked at my wife and then pointed to the engine like I had a gun in my hand and shouted "BANG!!" Shut the hood and walked back into the house. I am so upset! I wanted to have a running car when I was rebuilding the turbo engine. I don't know what to do. I've spent too much money on this carbed 2.8L engine, and I haven't touched the turbo. I plan on breaking down the 3 bolt round top SU's and cleaning them real good. After this, I'm out of options besides putting the money into the turbo. Sorry for rambling on, I had to vent..... :sick: Thank you all....

Ah, I see mull. Disregaurd what I said earlyer. How long has your friend been working with CF?

Thanks Tom. I will post a result soon.

Hey Ron, when did they come out with it? I must have missed something in the past couple of months. How much are they going for?

Sounds like a plan. How long do I have to wait before I can start the engine? Will it also be heat resistant so I can drive the car to a local shop? If so, I will stop at Auto Zone today and pick some up. Thanks...

IT IS ALIVE! I changed the cap and rotor and made sure the wires were in the right firing order. Choked the carbs...turned the key. She sputtered and then fired right up!! White smoke covered the backend of the car and from the back of the exhaust manifold. I had this annoying "popping" sound from there. Remembering back to the day me and a friend did the engine swap, we accidently snapped this 13" long tin tube off the backend of the manifold leaving a quarter size hole. I would try to give her a little gas, but more smoke came out and she started to backfire. The only thing I could think of is to take the manifold back off the engine and see if someone can weld it shut. On top of this, my radiator is leaking! :tapemouth I'm going to go crazy! (if I haven't already!) Thank you everyone who has read my post and is trying to help.

You know, Spirit Garage has the hatch, cowl (windshield wiper cover, but it is only for right hand drive S30's), and hood. PDK Fabrications has made a carbon fiber dashboard, but you can't use the climate controls. Would really be a nice touch for the daily driver.....if you could use the climate controls. I will have to look up the website for most of this stuff, but it is out there.

Beandip, I do have another ZX dist. with the E12-80 modual (same as on the engine now), but the mounting plate has a stuck bolt in it. Do you think I should swap the "guts"?

How can this be? The engine was running 2 hours before the swap. I touched nothing on the carbs or the distributor. I will have to buy one thing at a time. Coil, distributor cap, rotor, pickups, ect. Will keep you posted.