speedyblue

440K, if you want to ditch the P76 in favour of an L6, I would be happy to do a swap with you I was having a long think about buying it, until I read further down the page and saw it was sold. MickieB, if you want straight out Torque then the V8 is the option. It is a littler heavier, but can be set back and low to help with handling. For more top end power, plus better turn key reliability and fuel economy then it would be the turbo 6. The toyota 6 from a Supra is cheaper to obtain, assuming you aren't out for brand loyalty (SBC aint nissan) and is capable as long as you arent after ridiculous power. Jap V8's aren't as torquey, but still have some grunt and are light. You can get more power from a turbo 6 through simple bolt on's though. Many options. Take some time to decide. It can't all be done in one night.

Still have the same doors on it. Didn't do anything to them. Actually I forgot about them, too busy fixing a small hole in the floor that got pushed through a couple of months ago. Bottom of the doors is hard to see unless you are lying on the ground or specifically looking for it. Something to look at in the near future. Hopefully Wednesday will be the day!!

After a long time waiting, I fired up the old Z this morning and drove it down to the mechanic to get a roadworthy. Furtherest it has been driven in 2 years and it was great. It's been a while, so long infact that I had forgotten about the foot air vent and didn't remember until I was almost back home, but it went without a hiccup, apart from the cloud of soot that spewed out the exhaust the first time I gave it some, but considering it has only been fired up, idles and puttered around the block a few times, it is what I would have expected would have happened. Now just have to take a trip to QLD transport some time and get a registration.

I'm parting out a red 1983 280zx with a maroon interior. Gotta get rid of it, so it's all going like a canary (cheap) Make an offer and if I have it, it's yours. Located on the Gold Coast In Australia. Scott

My 73 is the same as Zedrally's. No passing/flash button, no hazards, no rear demistor.

I knew about the sill stripes, But this is the car I meant. Some guys have actually had clear bonnets made up. A guy got one made for his VS Commodore by a helicopter manufactureror something. MAde it from perspex I believe. Cost him a few grand, but looked nice. You would have to keep the engine real clean though and wash outside and inside the bonnet.

At the moment, the fast and furious look pretty much covers everything. Most of the ideas have been around since day one, like scallops and flames on old hotrods. Muscle cars coming from the factory with most of the bonet backed out, huge over the top GT racing stripes. Now if you have a black bonnet, you're a ricer, and imagine what would happen if Ford painted their top FPV with the white and blue cobra stripes like on the coupe in the 70's. It would instantly be tagged "Fast and Furious" style by those not in the know. What it comes down to is that it is your car, so paint it how YOU like it, not by how it will be jugded by some teenager how only knows about 'Fast and Furious' and 'Need for Speed - Underground', and enjoy driving it that way knowing that if you pass a hot skyline/silvia/supra in the street, there will be another 4 in the next kilometre, and zero old zcars. Good luck with your decision.

There is the checker board look. Bit outdated now though. Scallops. Look good if done right, but can go bad in the wrong hands. Big water drops, like the front of the car has been dropped in a paint tin. It is up to you and your imagination. Street Machine mags usually have some cool paint jobs in them, or you could try the Hot 4's style mag if you dare. Good luck.

There might not be much to gain over 5.5k, but it sure sounds good I used to scream my old L24 to 7k fairly often, just for the sound. Backed off a bit with the L28 though. Longer stroke, shorter rods. I just don't trust it as much in the high revs.

Not really. It seems every second ad I read for a 240Z reads something like "Your chance to own a rare spotrs car" etc. For some reason, when I went to sell mine, about 5 other people had the same idea. Glad I ended up keeping it. They aren't that rare yet, although a few people have tried to reduce their numbers by taking mine out. Only close calls so far.

There was someone selling two doors for $100 in the latest parts peddler magazine. Slightly better deal than that.

You better pu tyour glasses on Alfa. I was quoted $600 for a set of new flat top pistons for the L28, but I didn't lok extremely hard. I couldn't get a price from nissan because I didn't know the part No. but one of the Z car shops was able to give me a price. Good luck with it. Scott

The Radiator fits with the relocating of a few holes, but hangs lower. I am also going to try fit the electric mirrors. They are easy to remove, and wire back up, plus the switches can be put anywhere.

WOW! That is a big cash cow. Considering what else you could get for the same money. It's got the same interior as my parts car.:sleepy: Very red. Don't know if I could put up with it all the time. Still if someone is willing to fork out the dough, good luck to him. I wonder how much Sir Sidney adds to the price??

That's fairly detailed for a the type of picture it is. What game is that from? Look like something of a GTA type game. Cool!

Got them all. After using everything I could find that might do the trick, I settled on the most useful thing I have access to: my father. As the saying goes, bigger, stronger, more facial hair. He managed to get the two remaing clips out using a hammer, a screwdriver, a set of pliers and brute strength. Very handy to have around.

So far I am having problems with those little clips that hold the cable to the hanger. I can't get the pliers to the two over the diff. I can't lever them off with a screwdriver either. Plus it is about 8 degrees outside, which makes it that much worse.

I am trying to remove the handbrake cable from my 240z. I have discovered this is more difficult than I thought. So far I have dropped the tailshaft to get better access, but was hoping someone would have some tips/tricks in getting the thing out. Reason for removal: It is broken. Thanks Scott

How about taking the butterflys out of all the carbs and making a slide throttle between the carbs and manifolds, like on the old racing porsches. Not the most reliable for a daily driver. (Grit tends to jam up the sliding plates) But still something different, and bound to get a second look anywhere.:sleepy:

Zed's make a great first car. Smaller than a family car, not gutless like a small car. Getting a road ready one might be a better option than a fixer upper. Some of the people on this site haven't driven theirs in years, me included. Always seems to take longer to fix than you expected.

They have IRS and an R200. Normally with 3.9 gears in OZ spec ones.

Depends if you are intending to run the fuel injection, or stick with the carbs. The dizzy and coil are all you need I think. (The module is attached to the dizzy) You just have to run a wire from the '+' side of the coil to the module as well. Points distributors didn't have this. Have fun.

My car had one of those when I got it. It had accumulater quite a lot of grease/dirt/crud on it. I took it off when I added a swaybar. Didn't see the advantage of it. Mine had larger holes towards the front of it though. Did all cars come fitted with these?

Found a local wrecker with a 1985 R30 Skyline sedan. Went and checked it out. Drum Brakes. Turns out the sedans still had rear drums, but the hatches had rear discs. Go figure?

It looks too much like an add on. Like it was never there in the first place and has been tacked on. Others look as though they could have come from the factory with them fitted, but not this one. My thoughts.