speedyblue

Drove to the Sunny coast for a few days during the week and decided to take the datto instead of the big blue beast (International Scout in my gallery) I had replaced the rear left hand wheel bearings last week, so at least that was a lot quieter. For future reference, the inner bearing is a real pain to drive into the housing. Filled up with fuel as I left home and hit the highway. The thing did the trip without a worry averaging about 70mph (125 km/h) for the trip, with a 15-20 minute stint sitting on 90-95mph (140-150km/h ) at the end. Drove around in heavy traffic and lots of lights for about 50 miles, then came home a few days later. Stopped to fill up half way back and found out that I got about 10L per 100km in the way of fuel economy. Who needs a new car when a 30+ year old one can do a long trip in style with no worries what so ever and even get good use of petrol. Long live the Z p.s. sorry about the mixed measurement units but some things I can't convert off the top of my head.

I read that mag about two days ago, and quite liked the article. Interesting ideas for brake upgrades using a range rover caliper. My father bought it to read while he was on holidays. He still has it with him at the moment, but when he gets back I was going to post something about it. Definately worth checking out if you spot it on the shelf though I thought.

Fun stuff. Are you using after market stuff, or stock Nissan stuff, because I have a 280zx just sitting here and I dont intend to use the fuel system at all so if you want anything, you can have it. The stock pump works. I know because it pumped out the contents of the fuel tank every time I turned the key on to get the windows up/down.

A NA 2.6L will never match a turbo 3.1L if built to the same level. Work out what you want to spend first, then research the cost of both options thouroughly. It's all a waste if you run out of money half way. The turbo willbe very expensive and the L26 won't be as reliable if you are trying for big HP numbers. Sit down, work out what you want, make a plan and stick to it. My thoughts would be that with either NA or turbo, at least start with a L28 block. Good luck.

The RB series of engines are the nex generation over the L series. Therefore, more refined and efficient, giving more HP and better fuel efficiency. Plus, better built for unleaded. (The lead replacement stuff is just plain nasty) There should be a good lot of aftermarket options here compared to the L28. Downside, fuel injection, so you are up for an easy grand plus for new pumps, surge tanks, filters, regulators, lines etc. But makes the turbo option much easier at a later date. If you went for the RB30, then once set up, work on it rather than another transplant with the Toyota motor and a new bunch of headaches.

The water from the exhaust is more likely to be from condensation than a coolant leat, especially if you are in a humid area. A compression test or leakdown test can help rule this out. Easier than pulling off the head for nothing. I would think that with a stroker, the mixture would be lean rather than rich. Seems strange.

Mine does that also, although not as bad. Running the carbs too rich perhaps. I'm guessing you have a large exhaust, 2.5 inch or so, as that seems to make it worse. Bigger pipe equals lower velocities, and more black soot settles in there, then when you give it some, it all gets blown out in one ugly hit. Cheap fuel makes it worse too.

I'm after the little bracket that joins the strut that holds the hatch up to the car. I have the strut and the bracket that bolts to the hatch but have lost the one that bolts to the car. Also chasing the triangular prism/wedge shaped bits that screw onto the door below the catch. Mine are broken and the doors won't shut without hassles. I'm after the parts for a 240Z and I'm on the Gold Coast if anyone has a few spare bits lying about. If you want, I can trade for many of the small spareparts I have. (3 ice cream containers full, plus a small pile of bits from inside the doors)

Bout $2500 to $3000 from US to AUS, bit more back cause no one really does it. All Aussis Dollars.

My vote goes to the hose clamps on the internal heater hoses under the dash. Can't even get the screwdriver in there.

Thanks for the info guys. Haven't heard from him yet, but too suprised. Probably sleeping/jetlagged. He is there for about 6 weeks, plus a bit extra to look around and have a holiday (work trip). Don't know his plans really, just that he also wants to pick up some parts for his car also. (A neat turbo Ford Laser) Don't worry, we all questioned his choice of cars many times also.

The big one that has me stumped, How do blind people know when to stop wiping their butt after eating Mexican?

A lot of places won't accept credit cards from over seas, so Since he is there, that problem is fixed. He could buy them, and get them back. How far away are Zspecialities? Looks from their website that they sell spares more than afternarket gear. It that true? Thanks Scott

I have a mate who is leaving tomorrow for the US for a few weeks. He is going to Seattle. I am getting him to grab me some springs for the Z while he is over there. Is there somewhere in Seattle that he can buy them from? I know he has a hire car over there, but don't know exactly where he is staying yet. I want to be able to tell him where to go for the parts, to save him hunting around an unknown city. Thanks Scott

Don't forget half cut Full as a state school doing the wobbly waltz Then going off to "have a chat to Ralph"

"i know what you mean... i don't understand why people need to try to overengineer cars... especially essentially "perfect" ones like a miata" Why drive a Z then??? I'm sure a Ford Festiva would get you from A to B, and be more practical. The Bullet Is a complete subframe built for racing, with tuned suspension, a Lexus alloy V8 and a MX5 (miata) body draped over the top to make it all a bit cheaper. One of the prototypes came up for sale a few years back, with a 13B Turbo powering it. It was cheaper than a Stock MX5 from the same year range, but would have been a bit of a test mule too.

Methanol is very Hydroscopic. Aviation fuel is petrolium based and will mix with water about as well as normal fuel.

Go to Hybridz.org and look in their forum under wheels etc. They have a sticky that explains what offset and all the rest of it is.

Go to Global auto spares and ask them about a coil. Autobarn, supercheap etc don't have a clue about non-points coils unless you are after an MSD Blaster coil or something like that. Then they overcharge heaps. (one guy got upset when I laughed at the price he gave me) I payed about $50 for a 12v coil to suit electric ignition. Never had a problem with it. Or Chepa auto spares had decent prices on the Blaster coil if you want more *#*.

Racer X -27% I think wanting to paint the body kit before putting it on the car cost me a few ricer points. 500+ hp and stock suspension Takes me a bit longer than a weekend to rebuild an engine though. Ha just did it again screwing around Uncle Ben You scored 25% Depending on how you look at it, you either did awesome, or your worst fears are realized....you are, in fact, a ricer. Your vehicle world consists of large exhaust, large wheels, larger wings, and small engines. Every penny you earn goes into making your stock compact the gnarliest looking creation on god's green earth. The author of the test is of the opinion that you should probably be shot...but what does he know, his spoiler isn't even a foot tall. Congrats you f@#king ricer. Here here.

4x114.3, Yep and zero. Can with stand up to about 1/2 inch offset with standard rim/tyre sizes.

Ohh now you have gotten me excited. I want to give mine a go at drifting, but decided to up the suspension stiffness first. I already have the L28 in place, and a spare set of mags to put skinny tyres on. Have you got strut braces installed? From what I've heard, the stiffer the chassis the better. The video link is down, so I can't see them. I had wondered how easy a Z was to drift.

I may still be a young fella, but I already have a bunch of scars and such on my knuckles and fingers from various projects. Then again, I never really had the right tools for the job until recently, so that always helps bring on the pain. Now i have the right tools. The latest injury involved getting a finger caught between the corner of the bench and big oxy bottle. Stupid tools.

I'm sure I will be able to get them locally, I was just caught off guard by the price for new ones. There's one to add to your 'big pile of receipts' $360 for genuine nissan wheel nuts.

Just rung up Nissan to get a price for some 280zx wheel nuts to put the 6 spoke wheels on the 240Z. I am 4 short. Price from Nissan was $22.50. Not too bad considering, until it realised that this was PER NUT!!!!!! Unbelievable. That makes $90 per corner!!! I've tried the local shops, but they don't have the correct size, so looks like second hand is the go. Anyone on the Gold Coast, or in Brisbane have a few spare? Even one? :stupid: