speedyblue

It's easy to tell when you are ignorant. :stupid: Just did a search and learnt myself some new stuff about skylines. Won't make that mistake again. I thought the 2L 6cyl finished in the early 70s. Sorry I stuffed up.

Nope, it's definately a turbo L28. Some of the pictures further down the post show it. I saw a NZ performance vid with the same model skyline, in only slightly better condition going down the 1/4 mile, each time with more NO2. It ended up faster than a new GTR, then busted the engine. Quite funny.

My emblems are located on the spoiler like in the shot TexasZ linked to. There is a shot of it in my gallery. But I'm thinking about taking them off for the smooth look. In the end it's your choice.

Sorry to Hijak the thread a little, but is a Quaife LSD like a mechanical LSD that some special gear system to keep both wheels turning. The later series RX7's had a mechanical LSD with worm gears or something. Not too sure, my cousin is a Mazda mechanic and he was trying to explain it to me but I never picked it up.

I don't think you will be finding a kit for this. It would be a custom job. I have heard of a Ford 9inch kit that converted the centre, but kept the IRS, but then the halfshafts will probably need upgrading too. One question though, if you are drag racing, why are you using a manual gearbox? Or is it just the occasional blast down the track?

Bring over a nice 50's or 60's Chev and a bunch of 400cui chev engines. Sell them over here and buy a nice Z. Those things are in demand at the moment and it is impossible to get a 400 small block. Steady supply of 350's though. My old man is fixing up a HZ tonner for a work ute and can't get a 400. Everyone advertises them, but are currently out of stock. That and L28et's Turbo engines are rare as over here since we never got them.

Oh well, I'll see how they go. It will be Friday over there soon so If I don't hear from them tomorrow then I won't expect a reply. There are a few old posts where people who have matched KYB'b to the stiffer springs and they have suited it really well, for a while. They had to replace them after a year or two, which I don't want.

I dropped them an email today so I'll see when they get back to me with a price. Also, my springs turned up today, so now I'll have to do something. No use using the old struts. Guess I'll need bump stops too. Playing around with the springs, the rears are thicker than the fronts, but other than that they are identical. The fronts are softer though.

When you say "bringing back a car with me" are you referring to a Z, or something else?? If it is before 72 or 73 (I can't remember exactly) Then you can drive it around LHD. When most people talk about importing cars it's usually old Chevs and Fords for cruise cars. If you are thinking Z, then you might be best off selling yours and buying another one over here. It costs about 2g's for the shipping so that would kill any value for money.

Ahh that's what I thought. Unfortunately I don't have the skills to shorten a strut tube myself, so I guess I will ring up the suspension shop tomorrow to see what they charge. Might end up too costly. Still, lowering an inch should still give enough travel in the shock. Haven't heard of any problems with minor lowering. Thanks for that Steven. Now to do more research.

Yeah I've seen the other thread about this. I don't think I would really use the adjustability that much, since it won't see too much of the track. I'm building something else for that (insert evil laugh here) I'd rather get something local too. Just easier if something isn't quite right. Still, i will try keep my options open for now.

I see the strut casings have been modded for coilovers. Were there any changes required for the struts to fit and were any spacers or the such required? I really need to know if this is a complete bolt-on thing or if some modding is required. Just want to know what I'm getting myself into first so that there's no suprises when I install the springs and shocks. This car is a daily driver, so excessive time off the road is a pain in the butt. Thanks for the info so far. Hopefully I can use it to make an old car go faster!!! At the moment handling is fairly rubbish. Cheers Scott

Is the actual strut casing still the same size so the struts still fit nicely in the strut tube, but have shorter arms so they aren't almost fully compressed at ride height? I know lowering the Z can cause loose springs when the suspension unloads but never really knew how to stop it happening. Is there any mods required, or is it all just bolt in? If you could give me the part numbers, or which year VWgolf and toyota MR2 that would be great. Thanks for the input Scott

Well it seems as time goes by, more manufacturers are dropping the old 240 from their lists. It seems Monroe no longer make front or rear shocks for the datto. Others don't list much on the Z series either, with nothing for the 240Z. Before I bite the bullet and go Koni, has anyone else got an idea of what to use. My set of Suspension Tech springs should arrive any day now and I don't think the stock shocks will handle it. I know this was covered a bit 6 months ago, but it seems the 2005 cattledogs have changed it all a bit with availability. :stupid:

With the wheel bearings, you have to pull the stub axle out. I used a slide hammer bolted onto the wheel studs to yank it. It didn't want to come easily. After that, I took it to the local diff shop. Took him 2 minutes (literally) to take off the old bearing and press on the new one. Best $5 I spent.

Don't feel too stupid over it, You aren't the first, and won't be the last. As I read your description on what the engine was doing, I remembered mine doing exactly the same, except mine started at first. I didn't have a bolt in the distributor and the whole assembly jumped out enough for it to spin out of phase. All of a sudden it wouldn't fire anywhere but out the carbies. Finally realised. Just pulled the whole dizzy out of the block about 10mm, spun the arm 180 and plonked it back in. Also put a bolt in to stop it happening again. Good luck with it. Nothing worse than something not doing what it should.

:stupid: Priming the pump up before starting the engine would have taken a while!!

Search the forums. It's been covered somewhere.

Ring up and engineer and find out what is required in your state. He will have an idea what will be required and you can base your upgrade around that. It varies from state to state so you will just have to ask.

It would cost a lot, and stop very well, but you wouldn't see all the performance for the $$$ you spent because the back wouldn't be able to keep up. Braking while cornering would be a situation where having the fronts do most of the work wouldn't be very good. Go with a cheaper option and spent the extra money elsewhere.

The Z offset measurement is 0, but can accept up to about 15mm if the wheel isn't too wide. It's a try and see thing. Search offset and backspace in these forums.

72' 240 isn't lying about the alternator. I know more than once I've come home on a rainy night, lights on highbeam, stereo cranking with 3 subs, wipers going and demister fan blasting. Jump in the car the next day and the starter won't turn. Lucky I used to park on a slight hill. I used to kill the stereo demister, and high beam about 2 mins before I stopped just to get a bit of charge back. My 6x9's are mounted in the front of the toolboxes as EScanlon mentioned, but with 2inch spacers to keep more room in the tool boxes. The treble doesn't suffer too much as the tweeter on the opposite side is in line of site with your head. (tweeters only really work properly on line of site. Anything in the way blocks the sound) But the metal cutting was done by the PO, so it didn't worry me. I think it is the best spot in the car unless you are after extreme sound quality. That would require cutting holes in your door panels. Just take your time, think it out and buy a sheet of MDF to ensure the speaker is mounted to a solid base. Have fun Scott

check my gallery and Proxlamus' (sp) as well. I have 6x9's behind the seats and subs. He has a fair bit more, but I can't remember what.

Ummm I think he might be talking about wheels, not those little cars that starred in "The Italian Job"

Keep it registered while you do the swap, then when it is all done, drive to the engineers shop to get the mod plate. If you de-register it then as long as you have a compliance plate for the mod, it will be just like a normal RWC. But you will have to get it complied before you go for the RWC. If you work it out, your rego costs about $15 a week. The RWC costs $50 or something, plus $15 for new plates, plus you pay a fee for de-registering if the rego is still valid. If you just let it lapse, then it costs you nothing. However, if you try re-register it within 3 months, you don't need the RWC, but your rego starts from when it ran out ie. 3 months ago. Think it through and decide what's best for you if you decide to go through with it.