LanceM

My guess is to keep it from rotating under high steering loads, but why in just one direction I don't know...

Taking it out is easy, getting it back in right is the hard part. Assuming that it is the same as the L24 engine, take the cap off and mark where the rotor is pointed on the body with a marker, this will help putting it back on. Remove the two bolts holding the distributor, they are under the distributor, feel around you will find them. Pull the distributor out. Putting it back in is a little trickier, when you reinstall it you will have to offset the rotor a bit so when the gears mesh it returns to your mark, keep trying until you get it. Unless you want a lot of extra work don't turn the engine over while the distributor is out! Lance

I'm baseing my theory from my experiance with my '73 240 so this may not apply. Between the tank and the mechanial pump is an electric pump with a filter, it is mounted on the passengers side right in front of the tank. It has a filter in it, if this filter clogs nothing will get through. Pull the right rear tire and you will see it, bypass it and see if your problem goes away.

That is some thick steel! must have be damage from a wreck in the past! Dropping it on the floor wouldn't have done that. Surely you must see where the rotor was rubbing on the old caliper?? I guess I just wonder how it ever worked?? I wouldn't bother trying to bend them back, that would only weaken the steel more. Sounds to me like time for a new strut housing. If it's a DD I'd hate to think what would happen if the caliper broke loose on a hard breaking situation and went for a ride on the rotor till the break line ripped loose! Either that or washer time. I have to ask, are you really sure they are bent?? Just looked at mine, you should be able to lay a straight edge across the back of the top ear it is flat and long enough to check. Thinking more about it, if it is bent then putting a washer there would space out the caliper but it would be crooked compaired to the rotor, leading to some poor breaking and bizzar pad wear I would think. I understand the need to get it back on the road but IMHO I would get it fixed right, either by having someone build it up with weld and machining it flat or by replacing the strut housing. Not being able to drive it is one thing, not being able to stop it is another! Lance

2Many, I think he is looking to put a washer between the caliper and the mounting ears on the strut to move the caliper outwards. Doing nothing to the rotor, leaving it original and correctly mounted. Just trying to clarify what I'm seeing as the problem, I may be wrong. Lance

Sorry for the double post, back button got me! Since the old one doesn't fit right either now I would think that there must have been a spacer or washers there before that have become "lost" in moving things around. I have mine apart right now and you can see a match in the contact areas between the caliper and the strut mounting area (no rust). Are the contact areas on the strut the same size as the flats on the caliper? or are they larger or smaller? This might give you an idea if washers were used before. My mounting bolts only have a lock washer on them, do yours by chance have both a lock and a flat? Maybe when you took it apart you "dropped" a flat and thinking it came off the bolt put it on where you would expect it to be, backing the lock washer when in reality it is a spacer! Just a guess. Lance

If you do go the washer route be sure to use hardened washers, regular steel washers will crush over time in an application like that allowing the caliper to come loose.

If you do go the washer route be sure to use hardened washers, regular steel washers will crush over time in an application like that allowing the caliper to come loose.

I hadn't thought about all of the rubber hoses, add that to the list. Fuel tank I'll take to a local place to have it cleaned and sealed, went through that rust crap with my antique tractor and I'm not about to be cleaning 3 carbs every time I hit a bump! I figured on rebuilding/replacing all of the break componets that are probably rusted inside, calipers, slaves. I just hope the gunk hasn't plugged the lines as I don't want to have to go and replace all of them. Rust isn't a problem as after I got it the only snow it saw was through a window and during the teardown all of the pannels came off and were rust proofed, underside heavly undercoated, gained some weight but it is still as solid as when I bought it, even back then rust was killing Z's and it wasn't going to happen to mine! It's a '73 240Z, mfg date of 11/72, I bought it in 79 before I got out of the service and brought it home with me, only had 50K on it when I bought it, has 116k actual miles on it now. Ha I'm driving a 91 jimmy with 185K on it right now! The engine rebuild has about 16K on it. When I rebuilt it I had the head ported, tripple webbers, header, turbo exhaust, and long track cam installed, along with an aluminum flywheel. Suspension got heavy sway bars, Koni shocks, short stearing arms, hard bushings everywhere and all the other trick stuff. Always called it my street legal go-kart cause that's the way it drives! Well thanks guys, if you think of anything else let me know I'm all ears. Lance

Here's the story, bought this car in '80 in Calif one owner, brought it to Indiana and did a complete rebuild on engine and drivetrain, suspension, a friend had it for a year painting it. I got married.... kids came, couldn't afford a new interior and parked it for the winter (a 14 year winter) in the garage. I can afford the interior now but... it's been sitting for 14 years or so... Breaks are rusty, and don't work, clutch doesn't work, fluid evaproated and left some great gunk behind. Gas tank smells like hell's kitchen, the carbs are stuck (tripple webbers), luckly the motor turns and isn't stuck, the oil is clean. Springs are pretty flat, at least I would expect more than 1" of movement. I'm thinking of starting by changing the springs and working the breaks/clutch hydralics, I have new springs, I figure no need having a running engine if I can't stop it. From there go to the fuel system and rebuild the carbs and get things rolling, then go to the interior. I guess I'm looking for any input as to a better order of things to do or maybe something I should look at that isn't on my list because the car has set for so long. Thanks in advance, Lance