cbuczesk

Kenwood is good. I recently bought and installed a JVC and 4 JVC speakers. I was really impressed by the price and quality. The stereo even has Bluetooth which works great. I used the same gauge or heavier than was coming out of the unit. From memory it was probably 16-18 gauge. Chuck

That's what I was thinking too. I have some smog pumps but they're at my other garage. Hmmm...I bought an engine 3 months ago that might have a smog pump on it and it's here. I'll look after work to see if it has the hole. I think the engine is a 1972. Chuck

Since I bought my first Z (1975 280Z) in 1988 (and still own it) I've bought a lot of other cars. I'm not sure what car I'd rather have than a Z. My 1988 M3 was a great car and a lot of fun. I liked my BMW 2002s and still have a tii and turbo. The nice thing about those BMWs is that they seat 4. I've owned a supercharged Lotus Elise for a few years now and love it. It's quicker/faster than my Zs but the ride is pretty harsh, there's limited storage and ingress/egress is a PITA. I bought a Pantera last year. It's a great car with a lot of V8 big block power but the driving position is awkward with your legs cocked to the right. I also have a 1970 Road Runner 440+6 and AAR 'cuda. They're very different than a Z in almost every way. I had a 1971 911T project but never got to drive it. I like to try new cars but I like the Z the best. A 911 would be close but the cost of parts scares me away. And what car could be easier to work on than a Z? I have a feeling that at some point you'd regret selling your Z. It's a decision that only you can make. For me the Z wins in the smiles per dollar category. Chuck

Looking at Rock Auto... Rebuilt calipers $55-110 pair Pads $8-25 front L&R set Rotors $72 pair Hoses $7-15 pair $140-225 total. I usually buy the Centric calipers and rotors every year for the race car. Chuck

I usually get everything from Rock Auto. Google for their 10% discount. I'd replace everything on both sides. It's not that expensive. Rotors are the same for left and right but a 240Z rotor is different from a 280Z rotor. Chuck

Yep. I was just about to post what John said. Chuck

Yes, she is! Chuck

It was good talking to you today, Tim. Ask the Cal Datsun guy what has been done to rebuild the head. New valve guides? Valves? Springs? Valve seats? I'd assume that the head has been resurfaced or at least checked for straightness. Chuck

Use a good brand like PPG. Base/clear will be better than just urethane but it'll cost more. I painted my 260Z about 10 years ago in single stage urethane Daytona Blue. It's pearl metallic and has held up without any issues. The car's garage kept and not driven much. If cost doesn't matter then go with a good base/clear. Chuck

Based on my experiences... Don't use Bondo brand. Go to a paint shop and buy a good filler. Spray some black sandable primer and then a gray sandable primer. Don't use spray cans because they don't sand well and block up the sandpaper. Buy good paper (Norton). Use EuroDat's process of sanding and you'll see high spots in black and low spots in gray. The tape line trick works well too. Good luck! Chuck

I didn't grease mine and I applied the dye to all the rockers at once. Chuck

Great! My gf has race monitor on her phone. I'll have to check out the SpeedCastTV site! Chuck

Did something break? If not, maybe taking it out, cleaning, greasing and reinstall will fix it. There's much to the assembly. Maybe post some pics for us. Chuck

Metalman send me an email. I have a set but am missing one lens. I might be able to send them to you. Chuck cbuczesk@Comcast.net

He has a 280Z and those MSA mounts are for a 240Z. The ECU is in the way on the left side. I building a 240Z turbo for a friend and the only real option was to cut the door panels and modify the door. I put them as far forward and down low as possible. The window crank needs to clear the speakers. Chuck

Yep. Battery tray bolt. Chuck

Post the tv link and I'll try to watch you. Good luck! Chuck

Welcome! That looks like a really solid Z! Chuck

I took a couple pics tonight of some of my halfshafts. You can see how the bolt passes through. Chuck

There's a bolt that goes through the shaft and into the diff. You can access it through the gaps in the u-joint area. Chuck

That's right. They bolt in to the diff. Chuck

MSA probably has most if not all of that stuff. The long piece can usually be cleaned and reused. It might seem brittle but I've found that it's still flexible after you remove the undercoating from it. Lowes or Home Depot might have something to use for the little blocks under the fenders. The original foam under there didn't do much at all anyway. Chuck

That's a Z diff. I think the 260Z used those. I have one and the matching half shafts in the garage. I don't think it clips in. It just slides in like a driveshaft. I'll try to look at mine tonight and get some pics. Chuck

I had a Champion radiator in my 280Z race car and then in my 240Z race car. It worked fine but developed a leak. I don't why the leak started. It could have been from debris during a race or a defect. I've head lots of good things about Champion. I replaced it with a cheap 3-row from ebay and it's been working on the race car for over a year. fmautopart was the seller and the price was $132.86 shipped. We don't use fans so I can't help with that. A good stock brake system will work for auto-x. If you want to track the car then you should consider getting some good pads (Carbotech) and brake fluid (Motul 600 or 660). Rock Auto has water pumps pretty cheap and they might come with a new gasket. Chuck

I could do it but I have to finish another car first and I'm in south-central PA. It takes about 40 hours to replace the floors/frames with the Zedd Findings kit. The speaker area would have to be cut out of a parts car or custom made. For reference it'll take a couple hours or so to weld-in some simple patches for the speaker holes. If you're interested and can wait for me to finish the other car send me an email. cbuczesk@Comcast.net Chuck