Jabronie

Could it be a loose gearbox mount? First think I would check are mounts, use a pry bar and try to get leverage on various points of the drive train.

Ok I'll check it

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Light turned green and got off the clutch very light and the car kinda choked but didn't stall. So I ran to 3k rpms and shifted to 2nd. Just driving easy. When I went to 2nd is when I noticed my trans or shifter (gear box?) Started to knock.

Any ideas?

Its a 77 280 4speed

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I've said it before, I can get the valves checked and adjusted in 15 to 20 minutes. So I always do them hot.
Sure, when putting a fresh engine together, they need to be set cold, and the clearances need to be set accordingly.
I also set them a bit tighter than the manual calls for. For racing it is a way to "cheat" a bit more lift and duration out of the cam profile.
 

Let me be the first to be controversial and I know this isn’t the question you asked:

I fundamentally disagree with doing them hot! Reason? Can you keep the engine temp constant at “hot” over the 30-60 mins it takes to do the job? But cold is not going to fluctuate. My personal experience has been that by the time I finish and go back to cyl 1 to double check, the clearances have changed! ;) So for a rookie like me, I like doing them cold.

Secondly, this web page I LOVE:

https://www.engine-specs.net/nissan/l28.html

I do mine a fraction tighter than spec but let me not elaborate with an essay as to why.

I've heard cold

Intake .20mm

Exhaust .25mm

And

.17mm intake

.24mm exhaust

Car is stock 77 l28

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I've got an l28 that's going to the shop. Started skipping and choking. Now won't crank. And the head gasket is leaking oil . Mechanic quoted $1300.

Option B

I have a l28et that needs to be rebuilt. Previous owner had an oil line bust for the turbo. ( Probably messed that up) I know he blew the factory turbo. So assuming that's $3k to rebuild. Then I need a mega squirt $1,500 for ignition and tuning. But I get to keep my 4speed and rear end.

Option c

Just buy a LS for $900. But then I'll need a trans and rear end.

So with 330-400hp in mind, idk what I should do that's best bang for your buck.

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Isn't the p90 best right behind the one for $17k for the L28's?

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I prefer blondes for the best head

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There was a recent discussion about this, including photos of the timing chain showing where the tensioner is. When I did the head on my 280ZX, I had no idea where it was and didn't get it secured correctly. It cost hours of extra work, and I never got the timing gear cover to seal when I tried to install it with the head in place.  I ended up paying a Z-car mechanic to do it again and get it right.

Yeah my apologies. I edited my OP.
Ok I'll check em out, and thanks for the heads up on the timing chain.

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I have to replace my head gasket and I'm not a mechanic. So does anyone have a video they recommend on how to do it, and who you recommend to get one from?

77 280z 2.8 NA
 
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Hey@EuroDat
On those ev1 connectors, both the wires are black. Does it matter which wire I connect to the other that's on the harness? Like is one a pos and neg?

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You can't go wrong in replacing the weak original Nissan injector connection plugs.  But the odds are that that's not the cause of your "skip".  Good luck.

Ok cool.. I'll go with the ones in your link. My engine is skipping assuming from the previous owner splicing the harness.
What injectors do you recommend while I'm doing the harness?

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Yes. They will fit the original 280Z EV1 injector.
I used something similar to these
https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/fuel-injector-connectors-and-adapters/ev1-fuel-injector-connector-for-plug-tpi-lt1-ls1-ls6-5-3-5-7-6-0-rc-tre-ev1-pigtail-wiring-clip/
They are shorter and give a little more room to click them onto the injector.

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOALL-Injector-Connector-Harness-Pigtail/dp/B07H75K959

I emailed the seller, but Amazon said his mailbox is full.