Posts posted by Jabronie
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B5D7TE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titleIf it quits knocking when pushing the clutch, then its a clutch issue or the front half of the transmission cluster.
I dont remember the whole thread but I would suspect a main bearing issue
Ok I bought this clutch so hopefully this will help. And I'll Google where to buy a main bearing
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No I don't hear any other noise. But The gear shifter does vibrate. Ok I'll find a way to check for a broken mountDoes it make any other noises.
It still could be a broken transmission mount or front engine mount. The knocking you are hearing could be exhaust pipe banging against transmission cross member.
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No I don't hear any other noise. But The gear shifter does vibrate. Ok I'll find a way to check for a broken mountDoes it make any other noises.
It still could be a broken transmission mount or front engine mount. The knocking you are hearing could be exhaust pipe banging against transmission cross member.
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Light turned green and got off the clutch very light and the car kinda choked but didn't stall. So I ran to 3k rpms and shifted to 2nd. Just driving easy. When I went to 2nd is when I noticed my trans or shifter (gear box?) Started to knock.
Any ideas?
Its a 77 280 4speed
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If you know what you're doing, it's 15-20min to adjust valves?I've said it before, I can get the valves checked and adjusted in 15 to 20 minutes. So I always do them hot.
Sure, when putting a fresh engine together, they need to be set cold, and the clearances need to be set accordingly.
I also set them a bit tighter than the manual calls for. For racing it is a way to "cheat" a bit more lift and duration out of the cam profile.
Ok i wasn't sure if being a little tighter would be bad
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Thanks for the link. I just bookmarked it.Let me be the first to be controversial and I know this isn’t the question you asked:
I fundamentally disagree with doing them hot! Reason? Can you keep the engine temp constant at “hot” over the 30-60 mins it takes to do the job? But cold is not going to fluctuate. My personal experience has been that by the time I finish and go back to cyl 1 to double check, the clearances have changed! ;) So for a rookie like me, I like doing them cold.
Secondly, this web page I LOVE:
https://www.engine-specs.net/nissan/l28.html
I do mine a fraction tighter than spec but let me not elaborate with an essay as to why.
Your thoughts on adjusting hot makes sense. So would you recommend cold at
Intake 008inches
Exhaust 010 inches
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I've heard cold
Intake .20mm
Exhaust .25mm
And
.17mm intake
.24mm exhaust
Car is stock 77 l28
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I've got an l28 that's going to the shop. Started skipping and choking. Now won't crank. And the head gasket is leaking oil . Mechanic quoted $1300.
Option B
I have a l28et that needs to be rebuilt. Previous owner had an oil line bust for the turbo. ( Probably messed that up) I know he blew the factory turbo. So assuming that's $3k to rebuild. Then I need a mega squirt $1,500 for ignition and tuning. But I get to keep my 4speed and rear end.
Option c
Just buy a LS for $900. But then I'll need a trans and rear end.
So with 330-400hp in mind, idk what I should do that's best bang for your buck.
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How much was the bill ?There was a recent discussion about this, including photos of the timing chain showing where the tensioner is. When I did the head on my 280ZX, I had no idea where it was and didn't get it secured correctly. It cost hours of extra work, and I never got the timing gear cover to seal when I tried to install it with the head in place. I ended up paying a Z-car mechanic to do it again and get it right.
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I have to replace my head gasket and I'm not a mechanic. So does anyone have a video they recommend on how to do it, and who you recommend to get one from?
77 280z 2.8 NA
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Hey@EuroDat
On those ev1 connectors, both the wires are black. Does it matter which wire I connect to the other that's on the harness? Like is one a pos and neg?
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I agree with you, but when my friend touched the harness that was spliced and taped, it would skip more. So I'm starting with that, and hope I get lucky. I wouldn't be surprised if the injectors are old and need to be replaced as wellYou can't go wrong in replacing the weak original Nissan injector connection plugs. But the odds are that that's not the cause of your "skip". Good luck.
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So shorter ones are better to go with?Yes. They will fit the original 280Z EV1 injector.
I used something similar to these
https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/fuel-injector-connectors-and-adapters/ev1-fuel-injector-connector-for-plug-tpi-lt1-ls1-ls6-5-3-5-7-6-0-rc-tre-ev1-pigtail-wiring-clip/
They are shorter and give a little more room to click them onto the injector.
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https://www.amazon.com/MOTOALL-Injector-Connector-Harness-Pigtail/dp/B07H75K959
I emailed the seller, but Amazon said his mailbox is full.
Knocking in my transmission
in Engine & Drivetrain
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