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Everything posted by JHzcar

  1. finally got the car to run, and i drove it today, my what a blast that was until the trans died and i had to tow it home, and ****ed up my truck in the process. i had slack in the throttle cable so i could only get about half pull, but it would still break the tires loose in 3rd at 50mph, so time for better rubber, im getting some nitto nt05s installed tomorrow in a 235/40R17 front and a 275/40r17 rear so hopefully they will grip better. also note to future self if i need to replace the dizzy again i need to advance it more than i think. i did eventually get the lt1 longtube hea
  2. quick update: engine has been fully assembled, only had to do some minor grinding on the block for clearance of the rod caps and bolts, and of course they forgot to send the flexplate so i had to wait for that after 3days of customer service calls, but they were nice so i didn't really care. i sealed everything to RacerX's advice so now the engine should hold oil as intended, lots of nice parts so i'm excited to get it running! Engine and trans are back in the car, currently working out how to make these headers fit, if i can get the driverside to fit then ill just use a blockhugger
  3. you've owned lot of my dream cars, thats really really cool! the paint color i used is from tcp global, its called "Royal Crown Purple" https://tcpglobal.com/products/kus-umb-8011-qt_2, its a urethane based paint, i couldn't decide between red and blue and so purple seemed to be the best compromise. as far as transmissions i like the 700r4 but i do agree that a manual would a lot of fun, but i don't have the budget for that at the moment. however i will be putting a gated shifter on the transmission so i can choose and hold each gear similar to a manual, but it still won't quite be th
  4. more when the oil pressure has a very slight surge at idle is when it’s time to top off, it only had a 5qt pan so it didn’t have to lose much to start surging Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. a few things, valvecovers leaked, timing cover leaked, the intake manifold by the distributor has a leak, there is a small pipe plug that rotted out and leaked, rear main seal leaked and the valve guide seals on the heads were old and rotten so it burned a fair bit as well. but i have the engine fully apart now and a full gasket set ready so it shouldn’t leak a drop once i’m done with it :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. unfortunately not yet, as up until now the car leaked about a quart of oil every 30 miles and it still wouldn't come close to passing a tech inspection, and track time is fairly expensive so its a little further down the line of places to drive. however i live on some very twisty roads that are plenty of fun!
  7. so i pulled the engine a lil while ago and tore it down, every rod bearing had some pretty nasty damage and i had detonation marks on two of the pistons. heads were fine so i sold them since i wouldn't be using them anymore. the block has been stripped and rotates in and out of the parts washer, the block isn't too heavy so i'm able to pick it up and put it in and out with relative ease, but it did damage the tray for the parts washer so i'm gonna build a new one. i plan on building it as a small cam big head type of motor so that i have room to grow later on. exhaust headers is the big hiccup
  8. i got some led off of amazon for like $90 (“vouke H6024 7 inches Round Black Cree LED Headlight High Low Beam fit for Wrangler JK TJ LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 etc, Replace 7 inch Round Sealed Beam Headlamps,Pack of 2” was the full title on amazon) same headlights that the jeep’s use, they’re very bright, but they have a really nice cutoff for the low beams so that unless you’re looking right into it it’s not super blinding, and the high beams are awesome! i drive mostly at night to avoid any people on the roads and they work great, the only downside was figuring out the wiring, because whatever headl
  9. so i painted the car about 2 weeks ago, and it looks really good and i’m happy with it. also be weary with the mask you use and make sure your filters are good even if they’re brand new, i used some brand new organic vapor cartridges which were recommended for what i’m doing and should have been more than capable of filtering, but one failed and i was blowing purple snot for 3 days on top of the side effects from the chemical exposure. i do have a lil touch up i have to do along the roofline from my trim coming off and disappearing into the wind, but it’s largely unnoticed and i can always fi
  10. so i decided to prioritize painting the car, so i’ve spent the past 3months or so doing body work and trying to get most of the body straight. given that the car is an expression of myself, i am keeping certain reminders of past mistakes as momentos of what the cars beginnings were in my eyes. would other people think it’s dumb and makes no sense? yeah, but that doesn’t matter to me. overall the sbc swap i have has been running good, but leaks/burns a lot of oil, so sometime around christmas i’d like to put new heads on it (my valve guides are roasted and swap from 305 heads to a set of alum
  11. so it’s been a while since i updated what i’ve done to the car, i swapped to roller tip rockers, i’ve tuned the carb a lot, i added lights and i took the transmission out and installed a shift kit and did some other things to make it last longer, i put a new radiator and alternator and water pump in, i’m about to do new motor mounts and tires, i’m looking at a set of falken azenis rt660s in 205/40-17 and 255/40-17, i put in a new front u joint on the driveshaft, and i put a new caliper on the rear. it runs and drives great and handles pretty well, but could use some help with the camber of the
  12. you raise a really good point, i have made it somewhat better with 4pt seatbelts and better seats, but i do plan on installing a full cage when i have it apart for paint, as these cars are not great on safety Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. so i redid all of the suspension bushings with prothane bushings, new tie rods ball joints and a new center link, since the zx center link is $340 i took a chance on a 810 center link and it works fine, but the steering wheel is not straight(if you use a 5/6 bolt aftermarket wheel you could move it one bolt and it be straight) even with the wheel off it drives a whole lot better, and the camber is a lot less now, a press makes quick work of bushings and then they pop right in without issues. the actual datsun part of the car has been quite well and working great, but i’ve had continued valve t
  14. ok so i replaced the cam(lunati barebones cam, (.480/.488 and 224/[email protected]” 110lsa), ported the heads and did some minor other work and tuned the carb and such, added an o2gauge got new pushrods and did a bunch of work and now it runs great and drives well, has in the ball park of about 300-350 hp at the wheels, and it’s a blast to drive, spins the tires from a dead stop all the way to 60 if you’re not careful. next up is to replace all of the suspension bushings and tie rods and stuff to make the handling much tighter, really just waiting on the time to do it cause i enjoy driving it too much
  15. so another update, car handles great except my power steering is mysteriously failing me when warm, heads are currently off as i’m swapping in a new cam (ruined a lobe on the current one) and working ok the heads a bit(minor porting and screw in rocker studs) i took it to cars and coffee and met a guy with an s30 that had a turbocharged 305 swap. i’ll upload some pictures, and if anyone has some cam suggestions feel free to let me know, bone stock 350 with intake and minor porting. IMG_2175.MP4 IMG_1817.MOV IMG_2162.MOV IMG_2175.MP4
  16. alright so i’ve had the car for a bit now and i’ll update everything i’ve done to it so i can keep track, redid most of the wiring for the engine portion, rebuilt carb, fixed detent cable, redid carb throttle cable to get full throttle pull, replaced alternator, replaces swaybar end links, eibach lowering springs, bled brakes with new fluid, added a 160 thermostat and flushed cooling system, replaced a broken pushrod, changed oil twice(water got in the engine and had to change it again) changed diff fluid (did a burnout and found out it’s an lsd) fresh plugs and wires, added extra lights to th
  17. well i ended up buying it, texas car ended up being rust free on the underside, almost no rust on the car in general, few whisky dings but nothing too major, fuel cell was empty so i won’t have to clean that, the wiring seems basic and shouldn’t be too bad, once it’s running and driving it should be down to paint body and upgrades. no damage on frame rails and no rust in the place you were telling me about. will update y’all when i get it running, thanks for the help!
  18. Howdy y'all, i'm new to this forum so my apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this. I have a current daily driver (2008 Toyota tundra) and I'm finishing up my first project car (free 1998 ford expedition) so naturally being around hot rods all the time I'm looking for another project car. I've loved these Z cars for a long time and i love v8s. i found a 1980 280 ZX with a chevy 350 swapped in (i know these engines like the back of my hand) that I'm going to look at this Sunday. I know how to check engine trans ect. but is there some things that are Z specific to look out for? i know
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