Yarb

Another test I have not tried is plugging the AFM completely.

Still have a major vacuum leak. Did find the afm not closing completely. Solved that hoping that was the issue. No luck. Isolated the vacuum advance by capping it at the throttle body. Sprayed either all over nothing there. It’s sucking a lot of air some where. Pcv system is tight. All I have left is I capped off the bcdd valve and sealed it with permatex. valvcover gasket is old. It’s running around 2k rpm. Ran the AFM bypass screw all the way in with no result. Help from the Forum would be GREATLY Appreciated

Thanks, that does point me to an area where I removed the rotted egr and plated it off. The metal vacuum line going into the back of the intake was seized. I was able to back the fitting out but not able to remove the tubing. Ended up cutting the tubing and capping it. There’s a good chance that didn’t seat properly when I ran the fitting back in. As tight as it is I assumed it was sealed. Tomorrow I’ll spray some starting fluid back there and test it. Zed suggested looking at the pcv system. Replaced the hose at the block to the pcv. The aftermarket replacement was not a true fit. Had to really stretch it to fit. I’m amazed yours ran with that giant hole. Thanks for the pic.

It’s just nuts the rpm it’s running at. Certainly not driveable. Really want to move on and get going on the suspension and 5 speed conversion.☹️

I plugged It since that was taken. Also tried replacing the original hose back to the throttle body. I’ve replace the pcv ho se which was deteriorated. I followed your previous advice where you mentioned to go by the FSM and check check and check again. I’ve done all the testing That was in the FSM using my meter including the ignition controller on the passenger kick panel when I had the run problem. Plating off the bcdd might be my issue. What do you think?

Thanks zed I,m familiar with that. FSM has it set for 6 revolutions cc. Even closing it down doesn’t help much. I was just reading the thread about removal of the bcdd. I removed mine and capped the vacuum port . The thread mentions plugging it internally. Any thoughts on that. Thanks

I have. The FSM Solved the fuel issue with the regulator. Went through the fuel system following the FSM doing static tests on each component. Next, checked each ignition device/controller. Measurements checked out. Replaced the temp/thermotime harness. I still need to replace the majority of the harness connectors. They are clean but brittle/broken. End result it runs but at high idle 1500 rpm plus. Tach is not working stuck at 3000rpm. Plugs are sooty but firing. The engine runs smooth but acts like the throttle is stuck. The static tests on the afm seem correct. Looked for vacuum leaks but nothing I can find. Need some help from the forum. I appreciate any suggestions.

Solved the fuel issue with the regulator. Went through the fuel system following the FSM doing static tests on each component. Next, checked each ignition device/controller. Measurements checked out. Replaced the temp/thermotime harness. I still need to replace the majority of the harness connectors. They are clean but brittle/broken. End result it runs but at high idle 1500 rpm plus. Tach is not working stuck at 3000rpm. Plugs are sooty but firing. The engine runs smooth but acts like the throttle is stuck. The static tests on the afm seem correct. Looked for vacuum leaks but nothing I can find. Need some help from the forum. I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks Hoover, I’ll check them out.

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a quality rebuild kit for a r200?

Injectors were sent to HPI and rebuilt. New OEM pump. While apart I checked the AFM, TPS, Thermotime switch for CSV and the thermostat to ECU. Went step by step by the FSM. Only part could not check static was the fuel pressure regulator. Definitely had corrosion issues on most connectors which I resolved. All vacuum and fuel lines replaced. Thanks for your input much appreciated

Thanks Zed, I’ll let you know what I find

Not sure where to go from here. It turns over, I have spark, acts like it’s begging for fuel.

The factory oe is on it now. Have a Bosch 64018 replacement coming tomorrow

So the needle nose technique causes restraint in the system. Does that point to the regulator if it runs?

During this procedure will the fuel normally bypass the regulator and go to my return tank? On Initial turnover I’m getting 36psi and after it sits for a few minutes it drops down to 10lbs static. Meanwhile I’ve sent a lot of fuel to the return tank.

Won’t run more than 4 or 5 seconds and it’s not smooth. Are you talking about the oil pressure switch they mention in the FSM?

Sorry, new to the site. I can go back and start a new thread. It,s a 78

Just tried to fire my 280 for the fist time. Sitting 12 years plus. Replaced pump OE, injectors, all rubber lines. Pressure gauge. Cleaned and or replaced everything feasible that looked worn and or deteriorated. I had the tank cleaned and lined. Have not installed the tank as of yet. Want to restore the rear suspension first allowing more room to work. I tried to crank the engine using two fuel cans. Supply and return. The results were it fired and quit over and over again but would not run. This is what I found after trying to crank the motor. 36 psi holding for two or three minutes then dropping down considerably after a few minutes. The return can had a lot of fuel in it. Almost as if it was bypassed directly back to the tank. Have decent spark coming from the original coil. Rotor and cap look ok. Could be the original wires. Does it sound like the FPR is stuck in the open position. Everything on the vehicle is original. I’ve owed it since 1984. any help would be much appreciated

I agree, I replaced the joints years ago before I put it in storage. Not sure if I will have to use the shafts from the ZX since I’m replacing the 180 with the R200. Same with the drive shaft, I heard the flange might be different as well. Also I assume on the conversion I saw they used the turbo axle for strength or possibly the length of the shafts.

I saw where you buy the plates and use cv axles for a 300 turbo. I have a 78 280 AT that I’m converting to manual 5spd. I recently bought the entire drive train from a 83zx. R200 and close ratio transmission. Came with all 3 shafts. I want to remove and refurbish/ upgrade as much as I can without breaking the bank. I plan on doing the work just looking for advice on the best route to go. I hate it when I hear Man you should have done this!! I’ll have it completely apart wan to do brakes & cv conversion all at one time. Looking for as much expertise as possible. Thanks

I saw where you buy the plates and use cv axles for a 300 turbo. I have a 78 280 AT that I’m converting to manual 5spd. I recently bought the entire drive train from a 83zx. R200 and close ratio transmission. Came with all 3 shafts. I want to remove and refurbish/ upgrade as much as I can without breaking the bank. I plan on doing the work just looking for advice on the best route to go. I hate it when I hear Man you should have done this!! I’ll have it completely apart wan to do brakes & cv conversion all at one time. Looking for as much expertise as possible. Thanks

Does anyone have a source for the weld type plates that aren’t $250 a set?

Are the dampers prone to clogging? Mine has no Sign of leaking.

Zed Head, is the damper you’re referring to a direct fit replacement. I.m replacing the pump with OEM parts. Mine was frozen from rust in the tank. I would assume the damper is defective also.