Yarb

Well that did the trick it’s idling now!!!! I only ran it for a minute. Want to make sure the permatex has time to dry completely It’s running rich, I guess my next step would be to check the air bypass screw on the afm. When I originally looked at it was a little over 4 revolutions out. I’ve completed all the preliminary measurements that are static tests. Can anyone suggest where to start? The temp sending unit and harness has been replaced. From what I read this is the main threshold the ecu monitors for fuel delivery. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone on getting the idling issue resolved.

Got them both plugged and sealed. Clean the plugs and give it a try.

There is a pin hole and a large hole next to it. I thought that fed the BCDD. Ok fished it out with weed eater line large hole in front goes to large port in bcdd, got it plugged small trace of black silicon on my line when I pulled it back. Small pin hole goes to the dead end loop under the plate. The plate cap will seal that. Put a small amount over the pin hole inside the bcdd chamber just in case. Everything can be cleaned up if necessary in the future.

Good idea less messy if plate holds pressure on the plugs

Awesome thanks, I might get creative and find some small rubber plugs with the silicone. Would it hurt if i plug both

I’ll let you know what I find. Thanks again. I just want to hear it idle!!!

I’m headed to my garage and was going to remove the TB and plate. I assume there are ports visible that need to be capped before reinstalling the plate? If not is there something else to look for? My FSM is at the shop and Hopefully it will shed some light on this.

Thank you for the great information. So, I still have the original valve. The car sat for 12 plus years and before that my father drove it. Ran terribly rich. When I got the car back anything and everything fuel related was in really bad shape. I removed it not knowing capping it up simply doesn’t work. So is there a procedure on capping it correctly or do I put the valve back on and hope it still works? I Appreciate any advice possible. Been chasing this for awhile.

I’ll try it... Thanks Dave

Dave, Is there a procedure out there I can follow? I guess it would be a static type test almost like fogging an outboard?

The booster and trans vacuum lines are plugged. (AT is going away after I get this girl running properly). Yes all I did was plate off the bcdd when I removed the egr valve. I assume there are other areas in the throttle body that need addressing. Thanks for your input. I’ve been chasing this for days. Keep going back to what I’ve touched in the past.

Another test I have not tried is plugging the AFM completely.

Still have a major vacuum leak. Did find the afm not closing completely. Solved that hoping that was the issue. No luck. Isolated the vacuum advance by capping it at the throttle body. Sprayed either all over nothing there. It’s sucking a lot of air some where. Pcv system is tight. All I have left is I capped off the bcdd valve and sealed it with permatex. valvcover gasket is old. It’s running around 2k rpm. Ran the AFM bypass screw all the way in with no result. Help from the Forum would be GREATLY Appreciated

Thanks, that does point me to an area where I removed the rotted egr and plated it off. The metal vacuum line going into the back of the intake was seized. I was able to back the fitting out but not able to remove the tubing. Ended up cutting the tubing and capping it. There’s a good chance that didn’t seat properly when I ran the fitting back in. As tight as it is I assumed it was sealed. Tomorrow I’ll spray some starting fluid back there and test it. Zed suggested looking at the pcv system. Replaced the hose at the block to the pcv. The aftermarket replacement was not a true fit. Had to really stretch it to fit. I’m amazed yours ran with that giant hole. Thanks for the pic.

It’s just nuts the rpm it’s running at. Certainly not driveable. Really want to move on and get going on the suspension and 5 speed conversion.☹️

I plugged It since that was taken. Also tried replacing the original hose back to the throttle body. I’ve replace the pcv ho se which was deteriorated. I followed your previous advice where you mentioned to go by the FSM and check check and check again. I’ve done all the testing That was in the FSM using my meter including the ignition controller on the passenger kick panel when I had the run problem. Plating off the bcdd might be my issue. What do you think?

Thanks zed I,m familiar with that. FSM has it set for 6 revolutions cc. Even closing it down doesn’t help much. I was just reading the thread about removal of the bcdd. I removed mine and capped the vacuum port . The thread mentions plugging it internally. Any thoughts on that. Thanks

I have. The FSM Solved the fuel issue with the regulator. Went through the fuel system following the FSM doing static tests on each component. Next, checked each ignition device/controller. Measurements checked out. Replaced the temp/thermotime harness. I still need to replace the majority of the harness connectors. They are clean but brittle/broken. End result it runs but at high idle 1500 rpm plus. Tach is not working stuck at 3000rpm. Plugs are sooty but firing. The engine runs smooth but acts like the throttle is stuck. The static tests on the afm seem correct. Looked for vacuum leaks but nothing I can find. Need some help from the forum. I appreciate any suggestions.

Solved the fuel issue with the regulator. Went through the fuel system following the FSM doing static tests on each component. Next, checked each ignition device/controller. Measurements checked out. Replaced the temp/thermotime harness. I still need to replace the majority of the harness connectors. They are clean but brittle/broken. End result it runs but at high idle 1500 rpm plus. Tach is not working stuck at 3000rpm. Plugs are sooty but firing. The engine runs smooth but acts like the throttle is stuck. The static tests on the afm seem correct. Looked for vacuum leaks but nothing I can find. Need some help from the forum. I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks Hoover, I’ll check them out.

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a quality rebuild kit for a r200?

Injectors were sent to HPI and rebuilt. New OEM pump. While apart I checked the AFM, TPS, Thermotime switch for CSV and the thermostat to ECU. Went step by step by the FSM. Only part could not check static was the fuel pressure regulator. Definitely had corrosion issues on most connectors which I resolved. All vacuum and fuel lines replaced. Thanks for your input much appreciated

Thanks Zed, I’ll let you know what I find

Not sure where to go from here. It turns over, I have spark, acts like it’s begging for fuel.

The factory oe is on it now. Have a Bosch 64018 replacement coming tomorrow