Yarb

Definitely not a factory system. That pic spells it out. Vintage air is probably your easiest solution. Not easy but a solution. Your dashboard needs to come out as well.

Pics in the future would help us out tremendously. Could have answered your question in a couple of posts. Keep pushing on friend.

The panel @Captain Obviousposted is dead on identifying exactly what is installed. Also the vacuum bottle and solenoids on the passenger side strut tower

Not sure what direction you’re heading with your project, I can tell you that increasing the diameter up to at least 2” makes a difference in performance. These engines like to breathe. Just my 2 cents. I encourage others to chime in.

Have you given it the shake rattle and roll test. Good chance a lot of the internals of the mufflers have come apart.

Just recently removed my AFM bracket. No longer needed as I’m removing any brackets that will no longer be needed since I’m going to triple carbs. I had to sacrifice the bracket in order to drill out the spot welds. The configuration of the bracket won’t allow to get a spot weld cutter back in there unless you can find a long bit to clear the bracket. I can send pics if you like. Let me know.

Good decision friend, other battles ahead. Keep pushing on

@siteunseenthat is not a bad deal these days. Less than 3 bucks a piece. I’d give it a shot. Still can’t figure out why the lugs from the factory didn’t work. Maybe shipped the incorrect lugs. Gotta be a headache

Friend, I think you dumped oil out of the system. IMO That’s going to be a problem down the road.

Finished building my crate a few weeks ago. The idea was to use the existing mounting points and keep the engine suspended where the No possible damage could be done to the pan or the pump. Here are some pics of how it went together with screws and glue on the non removable sections. I secured a top plate on the new pallet. From there you can see how I constructed it. Upon completion the entire box enclosure can be lifted off by removing the screws around the base. Don’t have a pic of the handles installed on each end for removal. Pretty happy with the way it came out. The crate made it up to Eiji at Datsun Spirit unscathed via R&L carriers.

Here we are 3 years later, I sure had hoped that the 260/280 rings would make it to fruition.

Correct, removed the park bench bumpers and installing a air dam.

Thanks @SteveJ planning on making a pig tail jumper using the connector from vintage and the sealed connector from the original T/S housing back to the factory harness.

Front turn signal lamps arrived today. Very nice quality in my opinion. Rubber gaskets and the wiring looks great. Here are some pics. Now I just have to find the correct female plug fromVintage.

Normally you can tell by the control panel. Factory AC and air cond on the panel. Mine did not.

My dealer installed system was all mechanical.

Not so much that friend. Either the kit comes with options/adapters for the configuration that you are working with is the key. It’s tricky on these cars to find exactly what you’re looking for. Please report back. Thanks..

Did you alter the factory harness what so ever when you installed the radio. That will give us a heads up on the installation.

Keep plugging away friend. Life gets in the way sometimes but you will get there.

Exactly what I did.

Check the common wires on all your speakers going back to the head unit.

Datsun Spirit has a kit with the cable and adapter plate sold separately. I bought the kit to put on my triple OER carbs from Japan. Might want to reach out to them and see if the kit will work for you’re application.

Hard to answer that. Normally they put them there for good reason.

Clogged strainer/rust in your tank

Definitely the 70’s era. Someone on eBay surely has a few.