jj280z

I do have one more question. When I adjust the brake, so that the adjustment gear starts to widen the shoes. At what point will the shoes stop expanding? What is the mechanism to keep the shoes from normally wedging themselves in place?

Drum is off and adjustment has been made to the shoe spacing. Thanks to all.

I assume destructivly remove the drum. Will a penetrative oil work?

Should that splined wheel turn easily or should it be a struggle? Do I need to apply lubricant to loosen up the wheel?

You bring up a good point, but I first have to pull the drum off. My question is, how do I pull off a drum that doesn't want to come off. What orientation does the access hole need to be in to poke around with screwdriver? 8 o'clock or 9 o'clock?

No. I tried to back out of the garage a couple of weeks ago and found that wheel dragging. I drove it a short distance and it seemed to loosen up. I could push the car and it would freely move. I drove back into the garage for another week with the same occurrence of a tight wheel. I drove it yesterday with no change so I took off the wheel, disconnected the brake cable then tried to rotate the drum so that I could place a screwdriver in the access hole to adjust the brake shoe pressure, but with no luck. I have no idea what I did to cause this issue.

Not sure how the left rear drum got tight, but am trying to adjust and remove the drum per the maintenance manual. I have taken the wheel off and can't really get the drum to move at all unless I have a really long lever arm and then it won't move much. I have removed the emergency brake from the left rear, but can't rotate the drum unless I drive it. When I drive it a short distance it seems to loosen up, but the wheel gets hot. I am trying to loosen the adjust lever through the access hole in the drum but have had no luck. I am not sure what position the access hole should be in to apply a screwdriver to lever adjustment. I am not ever sure how this happened to begin with since I never use the emergency brake. I am all ears. Regards, JJ 75 280Z

I am looking for front bumper rubber end caps to a 75 280z. I have looked at Z Car Depot & Z Source for this part. Are there other reputable sites including junkyards that are good sources for used parts? If these parts are hard to find, is there an alternative idea that might make the ends of the front bumper look good?

Per my attached pictures, I am having a problem getting the driver's side of the hood to sit down flush with the mating fender. I tried adjusting and readjusting the hinges, but that really didn't help. My question is: does it make sense to take of the left torsion bar that connects to the left hinge and readjust/bend/reform so that the hood will sit flat? When the hood is down, the front left side sits up right over where the hinge is. You can push down on the hood at that point, but it will want to spring back. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this problem? These last 2 pictures show that the torsion bar that goes under the passenger side driving light has a healthy gap whereas the driving light on the driver's side has no gap. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.

I ran a compression check of the L28 engine and found that it ranged from 125-145 psi. The manual indicates a compression ratio of 8.3:1, but I could not find anywhere what the psi value should be. Is what I found with my compression gauge normal or is it low?

About a year ago I experienced hesitation when I had the car on the highway at about 70 mph. I got back home and asked for advice on where to look in the system. I got a response to remove the fuel filter and blow it out with compressed air. I did that and that seemed to be the end of the problem. Now, a couple of weeks back I had the same thing happen, so I got the car back home and took off the fuel filter and did the same thing as before. I got a lot of particulate come out as I emptied the filter and then applied compressed air. I then took the car out the next week and it was worse than before. I took the filter off and got at least as much junk as before. My questions are as follows: Where is a good website/place to go find new metal fuel lines? How many fuel lines are there (pick up and return)? I supposedly had someone redo my tank and recoat it so that it was good to go. Are there any fuels that are harder on the coating than other fuels or additives? Should I suspect anything else like the fuel pump? It appears to be doing what it has always been doing. I didn't really want to pull the fuel lines off until I found some place to replace these hoses if I needed to do that. Any suggestions and pointers are appreciated.

I had the engine and front end redone a couple of years ago and noticed that when I drove it for the first time that I could hear the fuel pump. It seemed loud and I don't remember hearing it from my memory of 20+ years ago. The first question I have is whether I should be able to hear it when in the driver's seat? If not, is that a sign that I should replace it? It has been maJJking this noise for over 2 years and I drive it about 10-15 miles a week. I then noticed a couple of weeks ago that as I got on the highway to go 60-70 mph and put it under some load that it started hesitating. I backed off and got it back to the garage and it was idling fine. My second incident happened a week ago as I was in third gear traveling at 35-45. It was really stumbling badly. I shifted to 4 th gear and put it under some load and it stumbled again. I backed off the throttle (below 2000 rpm) and got it back to the garage. Yesterday, I had it out and traveled no more than 40-45 mph and noticed no such instance as above, but I did keep the rpm below 2200 or so. Does this sound like an electric fuel pump problem? When a fuel pump goes bad, does it go bad all at once or does it go in stages some times? Would 100 LL fuel be a problem to run? I usually mix it with pump gas ethanol free. Any insight would be appreciated. Regards, JJ 75 280Z

What I found after I checked the wiring bundles from the tail lights to underneath the glove box was apparent continuity. The problem appears to be the connection underneath the steering column as high lighted in the attached file. Because the car had been sitting around a long time, I am guessing that a thin layer of oxidation built up on the connecter terminals. I unplugged and plugged the connecter back together several times and it started to work. The parking lights and tail lights are terminals #4 & #5 on the harness shown high lighted. 0408_001.pdf

I have attached several pictures showing the ground connection in the rear of the car. The connection looked clean, but I gave it a quick brushing any way. I also took out the passenger seat to get a look at the wiring bundle connections. I unplugged them and then reconnected them, but with no luck. The first question I have is where is the other end of the ground wire go and how can I check the continuity? The second question is how do I check the continuity of each of the wires in the 2 harnesses shown? If the continuity is positive for questions 1 & 2, what should I look at next?

Thanks all for the help and the link to the shop manual. I'll leave a response when I get the lights working.