chaseincats

The line should be fine since I could blow through it when it tested everything. Also in the past I was able to blow through it and have gas fumes be ejected into the cabin so that portion should be good (unless it is only somewhat blocked). The exhaust problem was finally fixed with a shop vac and a friend holding a halloween fog machine near the back. Wherever smoke came in, was handled. A huge culprit was the new taillight gaskets. Those should be glued/siliconed to the car, as-is bolting them on does next to nothing. I called and sassed thezstore a tidbit for that not being on their site haha

Got it - just wish there was a part number or at least an exact year for it. Regarding the gas smell, I took apart everything (and I mean everything) vapor related in the back of that car and pressure tested every single hose including the one to the fuel tank by putting my fingers in the outlets, putting my face up to the inlet, and blowing mightily. Not a great experience. Everything seemed to hold air, so I put everything back together, pushed all the hoses on VERY hard, cranked the hose clamps VERY hard, and blew in the carbon canister hardline VERY hard too. So far, unlike before, now gas smell escaped in the back (besides the gas cap of course) which is a new experience. My guess is these hoses are old (which they are) and needed some extra persuasion from the clamps. We'll see if this continues to be the case. Regarding the vapor tank. I was thinking about bypassing it like this which I believe should work. Getting a T-fitting and plugging one end into the metal tank line, one end into the top of the carbon canister's outlet (the one shown when you pull the vacuum cap off) and plugging the third into the ported vacuum part of the throttlebody. That is in theory what is happening with the design despite the bespoke line going into the intake manifold. I'll give the above a shot if the gas smell returns to the back of the car.

That was the issue - I'm assuming a carbon canister vacuum cap from 95 won't hold vacuum either

I'm sure installing it isn't all that difficult - I just had a hell of a time finding a new one...

Ah that topic - I believe it was from a mid-90s pathfinder too

Do you know how long ago that thread was? That might be tough to find

Right, so why wouldn't plugging the metal tank line into the ported line that goes into the throttlebody work?

I'm trying to eliminate all gas smell both in and outside the cabin

Doesn't having the carbon canister connected properly create a semi-vacuum leak? The seal is indeed bad in the vacuum portion of the canister.

I shouldn't be able to smell the gas vapors if it is the tank though since it is isolated from the cabin I'd think. One of my hoses has to have a rip somewhere but I can't find it. The frustrating part is the only time I can smell it is when I'm driving or if I blow hard in the charcoal canister metal line...

Sorry, I should have said the top vacuum operated portion no longer holds vacuum. Would wiring it that way work?

This hit me today. Why not plug the metal line in the engine bay that comes from the vapor tank into the t-connector that the carbon canister's vacuum actuator outlet ordinarily would plug into? The vapors would still be going into the intake manifold, just through a different opening. Since I can't find the gasoline smell location from the vapor tank area, getting the vapor tank venting system working is the next best thing but since my carbon canister doesn't hold vacuum, that's how I came to this.

Removing that stuff out of principal or due to it not being used with the old engine?

Here's a dumb, improbable, not going to happen, but question never the less. What would happen if you were somehow able to put an old school engine into a modern car? Would it be able to handle the weight? Would it be running at 5k down the street to get groceries? Could it even move the car? For example, what would happen if you were somehow able to shoehorn an L-series engine into a modern car or SUV? For the purpose of wasting our time on this thread, let's say putting an L-series engine in a 370z and Pathfinder. Would it be able to move the car? Would the clutch be the weak point and slip? etc.

Great news, I fiddled with the adjustable latch under the license plate panel and was able to get it to line up way better by pulling the latch down and to the left. Thanks all

I just went and took a look online - the retaining clips are surprisingly expensive for a little piece of wire...

Yeah, the re-installation was my main concern haha

Is the issue only at the ends (speedometer and transmission connectors) or can the issue be anywhere within the sheath?

Can you do that without removing the speedometer?

That part should be good - I replaced that pinion gear housing/seal a few years back and the cable there looked good - the issue is probably further up the line

A defect would mean a tear in the sheath outside of the cabin?

My speedometer needle always seemed a bit weak in that it moved down/up when you drive over bumps or rough pavement. Is that just how these speedometers are? I have a dash cap on meaning the speedometer can't/won't come out. This is just a general question.

I remember popping the clips off to work on the car a while back and not putting them back on since they were so obnoxious to get out. Message received though

I don't have the clips

Honestly, I feel a bit silly posting this, but I did take a second look today in the light and there were actually 2 of those rubber seals in the plug instead of 1. There was no way that was ever going to make good contact like that - there isn't enough physical space inside the connector for that to happen. That said, I'd rather feel like a doofus than have the car run like it had been and at least now I know all of the other systems are working as intended.