chaseincats

It measures oxygen in your headers/exhaust manifold's back piping (not your intake manifold as that's just air not air/fuel). Jonbill also made some good points.

It has an oxygen sensor ("o2 sensor") that is welded into your exhaust. All modern cars have this.

Hi guys, I just purchased an air/fuel mixture gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VGPYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and was wondering where to find the number the car should read when driving/idle. Has anyone done this before? The FSM shows fuel percentages but that isn't readable on these gauges it seems. -chase

If you're talking about finding a replacement for the accordion-style spare that came with the '77/78 (and maybe ZX?) then I don't believe you can get those anywhere. Tires for the standard wheels can be bought off amazon for like $60 each so I'm not sure what he's talking about...

I actually was thinking about that, because that happened a year and a half ago and I ended up changing the alternator which solved it. The difference is this time my volt meter is reading a normal charge rate compared to before which I think was around 15v. I'll keep that in mind though next time it happens.

Well this is a new one... I was driving this evening (about 40 degrees out) and my temp gauge passed the half mark which I have never seen it do outside of 100+ degree heat with the AC on. I noticed that when I turned off my cabin heater fan, the temp gauge would drop down to where it normally sits almost immediately (a little below the half-way mark) but rose back up past the half mark when I turned the heater on again. I had a long drive so I had a chance to try this over and over again and that is oddly exactly what's going on here. I played with the temperature slider to see if max hot would change the degree of movement on the coolant temp gauge but it literally is an on/off issue. How is that possible?

It might have not been in all the way - who knows. Not sure if the dist caps were the same brand as the first one came on the car when I got it years ago.

Ya the car runs great. I put a glass of water on the valve cover the other day and got no ripples with it sitting at idle haha. So you're thinking just shut the hood and move on?

The ignition box says "jacobs electric." I took a look under the cap and it looked fine...

I have a non-stock coil/ignition box - could that be the issue? Basically could the plastic used for these caps be rated for stock coil voltage/frequency?

Thoughts on putting some ox-gard in the terminal to draw current away from the plastic?

Would wrapping electrical tape around the top of the cable's contact help?

Let me try and bulk answer the questions here haha: - I'm assuming the cap is made in china as it's from my local parts store but the wires are NGK - The cap and wires are all about a year old and not corroded at all which is the strange part. This was the case with my old cap and wires and I got the same result. - The odd thing is the car runs great with the cap/wires as-is - The boot for the center wire is pulled up for the same of the picture

Hi guys, The plastic surround of the center spark coil lead (only) on my distributor cap has melted a bit for the 2nd time. The car came with an aftermarket ignition box/coil and has run great for years. Would putting ox-gard in the center terminal help deflect some of the electricity/heat awa y from the plastic surround? Here's a picture of the melted center terminal (the other terminals don't have this problem).:

WELL here's a top tip for anyone reading this high on hubris like 'ol chaseincats - do not do this unless you enjoy being stranded lol (ask me how I know). Basically, the engine will refuse to start after it has gotten up to operating temperature when wired like this and not had sufficient time to fully cool off. This acts as a pseudo choke and it more-or-less floods the engine when starting if warm thus not allowing the car to start. It makes perfect sense when you think about it - I just didn't know the CSV pumps THAT MUCH gas into the intake manifold to create a flooded condition. Live and learn I guess.

The resistor is bolted inside the big metal fan housing and is not part of the blower motor itself if memory serves. It looks like a curly wire resembling a pigs tail - you can't miss it.

I'd get the car back in the garage if I were you lol. You can find vacuum leaks in 10 minutes with cigarettes.

Awesome, so with it setup to manually ground like this it won't continually run after the engine is running I'm assuming. Doing it just so the engine starts faster.

My end goal is to wire this so that the cold start injector fires each time I start the car, regardless of the temp. Is that even doable?

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the aux air regulator. For the record you don't need an expert to look for vacuum leaks you just need a $7 harbor freight hand transfer pump and a cigarette haha.

Gotcha, so just so I understand here's what I should do: - use my test light to determine which of the two bullet connectors has power to it during cranking, and ignore it - run an alligator clip from the other terminal to the negative post on the battery - crank the engine and see if it works EDIT: I just checked and both connectors that go to the thermotime switch have power during cranking is that right? EDIT_2: Got it, thanks so much for the explanation! right?

Sorry if that was confusing, I'm talking about the cold start injector, not the aux air valve.

Hi guys, Having a really strange cold start valve issue here. My cold start valve is not firing when connected to the harness even though it is getting the ECU signal to do so. I connected the thermotime switch's bullet connectors together to simulate an "on" signal from the ECU which got power to both sides of the CSV's injector plug during cranking (with those connectors unplugged, the csv's plug only receives power on one side according to my test-light). However, the csv is not firing when connected to the harness (I pulled the csv out of the intake manifold and put its end into a cup to collect the gas and got nothing). I left the nozzle in the cup and used some alligator clip wires to connect both "teeth" of the csv's connector directly to the battery and it spit out gas so the valve doesn't seem broken. The csv is only about a year old and I re-did all my injector connectors so neither of those parts are vintage. Any ideas? -chase

good point

This excerpt from the FSM should explain it a little bit: