Jump to content

chaseincats

Members
  • Content Count

    310
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

About chaseincats

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    Dallas, TX

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z stock l28 - Dallas TX

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Awesome info, thanks! The car has an L26 instead of an L24 - would that change any of these ratings or are those pretty universal for all L-series engines?
  2. Have some main/idle jets & emulsion tube pictures. It looks like they say: main jet/emulsion tube: 60F6, F11 idle jet: 125 Any ideas?
  3. He's out of town until Monday - I'll get back to you then. Thanks for all your help so-far. @240260280 Gotcha on the main and idle jets, any recommended stats for emulsion tube?
  4. Will he have to measure the opening hole, or will the size be stamped on the jet?
  5. Yeah, that's what's so strange about it and leads me to believe maybe the jets that kit comes with are too large?
  6. Since it's a 260 it has both - a mechanical pump in the front and an electric in the back. It has an in-line pressure regulator on there set to 2. I believe this is the regulator he has: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/mr--gasket-4367/performance-16477/engine-16841/fuel-system-16571/fuel-pressure-regulators-17798/37354b4805ef/mr-gasket-fuel-pressure-regulator/9710/4514726/1978/nissan/280z?pos=1 EDIT: He only has an electric fuel pump in the back set to 2.5 psi
  7. Question for you guys - I have a friend who bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-DCOE-Kit-fits-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Triple-Performance-40-DCOE-K659/272778769560?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&fbclid=IwAR1-Pa61k0L6wA2H0mXxTlwqbQ5MLFtBQT5KGbX4TlrUgjEMWnvBwIyfpWE Even with the air mixture screw set to max-lean, the exhaust out of this car is so rich it burns your eyes within a few seconds. Are the jets this kit comes with too aggressive? -chase
  8. Wow, I had no idea that was there. I just took a look and the latch was bolted in all the way in the down position. My guess is they had it that way with the old deteriorated seal on it. I moved it up quite a bit and the hatch closed really well. Is there a calibration spec for this? For example, is it a "drop it from 1/4 height and it shouldn't latch but if dropped from 1/2 height it should" type of spec?
  9. The latch is connected to a patch panel so that might be the root cause - the panel installed improperly. That said, with the hatch closed, the middle of the hatch seems to slightly bow out when compared to the body lines. I also just tried to close it with the windows down and to no avail - it will just sit open on the seals.
  10. Is there a way to raise the hat shut lines so that I don't have to keep slamming the hatch to close it? I have an OEM seal on it and have had it for a while and still seem to have to slam the hatch. Is my hatch adjusted incorrectly?
  11. I have a california car so I'm guessing its there somewhere haha - I'll check the fsm EDIT: I found it - check and see if you have it, it is this gold pod and the wires going to it are solid blue and solid black. I'm guessing to engage that we just bridge those 2 wires?
  12. Is there a way to trick the ECU into going into high-altitude mode?
  13. Zcon will be in Colorado Springs in 2021 - i plan on driving up to try it, maybe you can give it a 2nd shot then haha
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.