hls30.com

Once again, We will be holding an impromptu Z get together on Saturday, March 14th, at Pavillion #5 at the North Beach of Little Talbot State Park, if you are going to be in the area, plan to join us, the pavillion is reserved for us from sunrise to sunset., There is a nominal charge to enter the state park. local Z clubs have been, and are invited! The pavillion has several grills, so bring some picknick fare/fast food, and join us! Will

Twelve Days to the Amelia Island Concours! Join us there to celebrate Carl's Invitation to show his exquisitely restored BRE Rally Z on the field! Add to that Peter Brock(founder and owner of BRE and more recently BRE2.net for those that don't know) will be Judging in the show, and a cast of many more racing legends, Automotive Enthusiasts, and Celebrities-Including the Infamous Carl Beck!!!!! We will be having an impromptu Z get together on Saturday the 14th at Pavillion #5 at the North Beach of Little Talbot State Park. John(280~Master) and I will be traveling down Friday(the 13th!) morning to attend "The Great Customizers" panel talk, and to research the new acceptance and involvement of Japanese cars in the concourse! Will

The seats look to fit really well! What kind of seats, and brackets did you use/fab up? We need more specifics for those who search for seating options. Will

While I would never recommend your chosen vendor, DatsunPartsLLC , I do have a couple of questions: 1) Have you contacted Datsun-Parts, LLC? Being that you are close enough to take it personally and with out too much drama, why don't you take advantage of their warranty? 2) If you are outside of their warranty, Why? 3) What sort of hodge-podge oddities have you and your mechanics noticed? I am sorry you are having a problem with a product bought from Datsun-Parts LLC. Will

I hate to tell you, but if a steel blade will scratch glass, steel wool will. Even the makers of Brillo pads admit that unless there is soap on the glass, steel wool should not be used on glass. More importantly, steel wool will shred into fibers that will get into the seams of the area and rust, potentially causing all kinds of problems. Use Brass wool and it will not scratch glass, rust or cause problems with paint, weather seals, or wipers. Will

I don't think Japan got the 280ZX, or atleast not by that name. Replacing the rail is possible, but unless you are going to do it, expect to add $1000 or so to your budget, between having the area trimmed, the new part fitted and welded in...better to over estimate than to underestimate. Be aware, if there is significant rust there, there is probably more...check it out thoroughly, or get a well versed member to have a look. Will

I've been running both Fast and Efast for over six years, well over a year on Vista Home Premium with no issues-but the most common issue in Vista is handled by running software as admin... I copy the Nfast.sys file to the windows/system subdirectory, and use the win2000 install file. The club CD is so much easier to use, and so much more readable than efast...but Fast is the only way to go for the z32. MikeW I found the same thing with my first copy of efast, I cut the Sports and Z files and put it on one disk with the program. Efast and fast are copywrited and not included in mikes exemption-so they won't make it onto the the new club cd/dvd. Then again, well scanned, searchable, and well indexed PDF is so much less cumbersome, and easier to use. Most dealers will give the older version of fast away when the new one comes out. Most of the parts counter guys really don't understand Efast, and that is where the S30 info is. Will

The Vintage Air unit has been used with great results by several members, and Derek posted a thread on its installation. Will http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30411&highlight=vintage+air

fully interchangeable '69-'73 Will

Ya know, You could probably pay a competent shop(one with an owner with proper mechanical ability and reasonable judgment;)) a whole lot less to build a much better car with the same engine, put it on ebay and have just as much history-maybe more if the shell didn't spend more than 10 years in the sand...collecting dust and mystery:eek:. Will

I found that they were all the same size, if you order a new set from the dealer, that is how they come. I replaced mine with the stainless set from ZCarCreations, and they are all the same size. Will

I asked him who "the experts" were, and for the Vin... Of course, now that the car is on ebay, every one of us has heard of it. Though confusing knowledge of the car with agreement that it is valuable is just a wee bit of a stretch:stupid: Will

I sent him a couple of questions within minutes of his listing...still no answer...or clue Will

It is a combustible fluid that cleans engine internals and smokes white like you can't beileve! Will

With any luck I will have several sets at Amelia! I am just waiting on mold supplies-and they are due in on or about Wednesday of next week. I will have everything ready to pour the molds tuesday night, and within 8 hours of the supplies hitting the doorway, I should have a pair of molds for each of the two types of knobs(rounded and squared) so that I can make two pair at a time. Will

Just on the offchance, did you put seafoam in the car? Will

Esprist, I have a New Old Stock set sitting in the original boxes with the original paperwork to work from-all of the components are pictured in my gallery http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12162&ppuser=4106 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12159&ppuser=4106 and in another thread I will locate later. I am not certain what we-this will be a team effort- will do about hardware as the original is not built to last, and is dificult to install. Using Threaded rivits would be far easier to fit, and longer lasting. I am aslo going to develop a seal kit to keep moisture and road debris out of the covered nacelle. Will

I hit Lowes and found it, and I have one from Bryan. I agree with you Bryan, yours looks and feels closer-but under the boot either will do the trick! When I remember to bring my camera back from the restoration shop correcting Larrys car, I'll take and post some side by sides. Will

For the door glass, remove the trim at the base of the window and cover the paint, The window can be polished on the car, but cover everything-tape up the rubber-the cerium oxide is worse than buffing compound to remove. Will

I put the whole thing together by searching 1) Car-parts.com Vented Toyota Calipers($30 a pair) 2) Discount auto Rebuilt lifetime garanteed Loaded vented Calipers($110 a pair-$60 core) 3) RockAuto.com Vented rotors ($40 a pair) 4) Local Dealer Maxima Brackets ($110 a pair) 5) Ebay Spacers and hardware ($65 a set) right at $275 for the whole shabang-all new/rebuilt parts Will

Jim's right, The 280 pieces have been and are easily adapted to the task-but I don't think they are available from the dealer any longer-I don't remember checking for sure. Will

Since Chloe disappeared, I don't know of anyone, but I would say CourtesyParts.com could be your best try-other than getting the club CD and ordering them from the dealer yourself. Arne posted a great guide to the emissions hoses under the hatch and floor with their "replace-ability value" and part numbers. Unless you are going for a restoration, I would suggest using thick wall silicone hoses-since they will not degrade. Will

What you describe is either known as Hard water stains-places where water has evaporated and either left calcium and other deposits behind, or actually an area etched the glass with a slightly acidic content For hard water spots, sometimes placing and holding a paper towel soaked in white Vinegar on the area will take care of the deposits(essentially the same thing as Boiler scale). I have always used the Eastwood glass polishing kit. It can handle both situations. Here is a before and after...

The Shelf wasn't restored, it was modified. As any professionally published and edited dictionary will confirm, the act of Restoration means only one thing-to put something back as it was originally. The shelves are usually filled for one of two reasons: 1) To hide a not so well done repair-as pointed out earlier-pull the panel and look at the underside-a poorly done job will show underneath with filler stalagmites, untreated rust, misaligned panels, etc. 2) To keep water and dirt from collecting in the corner by building the area up and building in an angle to direct the water (and what it may carry) away from the area. Will

Marty, They will be absolutely and completely useless from the time I embed them into a proper clay until the time I pull them from the finished mold-then they will be ready to go back in their protective hiding places, or right onto a glof medallion contender immediately before a show-no worse for the mud pack or the multi-sided soak in vacuum inspired effervescent silicone! The molding process is no more detrimental to the original part than handing it to another enthusiast who recognizes its rarity, and respects your search for it. Will