hls30.com

Welcome to the club! The first advice and suggestion is to post pictures! we want to see what you have as a starting point! The second, don't forget the power of the search function specifically! Lots of questions have answers posted with serious time in them-missing those diamonds because of not looking far enough is tragic! Welcome again! Will

That statement is one you use to "help" someone (not in tune with using cars as an investment) justify parting with money. If the car really had "tremendous investment potential" and it was mine, I think other things would be going on ebay first, or I would be finding a partner for the investment....and sell a share. Now if that were a "73 Rally car-not only would the price be significantly-four probably more times higher, but you would get the current owners fingers permanently embedded in the rear bumper(from holding on), but there would be a real example of "tremendous investment opportunity! Will

pull the access panel under the hatch carpet and pad, check your sender/fuel tank....a sitting car gets gas issues from sitting. Will

Obviously yesterday came and went! Everything was sewn up, put in 6 gallons of high test, turned the key healthy turn over noises, but no fire up! Traced to no fuel pump cooperation. Fuel pump relay checks out, power to the pump, no spinning! figure out how to get to the thing-Nissan really did a poor wizz-poor job in the fsm on dealing with the convertibles(at least in '93). pop open the access and the tank is full of rust colored growth-it wipes off to reveal a pretty talk surface underneath, but man Just goes to prove the point if a car is going to be sitting for more than a few weeks, add stabil, if it has been sitting more than a year-just go ahead and drop the tank-in an S30 you can drop the tank in about an hour taking your time having never done it. In the Z32. it looks like a serious undertaking-drive shaft, exhaust, subframe-hell as with most everything on this car, half of the car has to be removed to repair almost anything! Will

Well, the painter just vetoed the composite panel. He said he would be happy to handle spoliers, vents, etc, but he has been bitten too many times on painting/fitting composite body panels. Will

Ron, that was a side purpose of this thread, the paint and Bodywork Man(quite a find by the way) doesn't want the car for a month-so I will be correcting the electrical issues, the heater control issues, the AC issuesl, and insulating the cloor and fitting the carpet(to be removed once fitted)before painting. I am going to talk to the painter today about 2:30est to finalize the details, get the car on his schedule(with a fat deposit), and sort out whether he will accept Composite parts or not. When I mentioned them on the initial interview, he hemmed and hawed about using them. But this guy is "the Man" he does body and paint on a first in first out basis, he has painted more winning show cars than you can count, most recently, the overall winner at the Hilton Head Concourse this year. Will

Arne-I missed that-too close to the project I guess... That would work too. I just want to get together a bunch of options so that I can choose the best one.

Doug, That isn't a stupid question-as I said: "I have a full set of NOS pieces(other than the hatch) so I can reproduce them if necessary, and the only part of reproducing the hatch opening that I see as an issue is forming the stiffening flanges at the top(closest to the glass) because of limited access to the area for appropriate tools." I am simply looking for alternatives. With the depth of ability, skill, and interest here, I believe someone will have already "been here and done something about that!" I am going to address every gap individually. There will be no point of entry in the rear of the car and under the hood left un addresses. We have several threads about replacing rear fuel/vapor hoses and sealing the exhaust out. I will re-read through all of those and I come up with something new, I will post it as well. Will

I am going to be replacing the vented Hatch on Larrys car with a non vented hatch because the steel under the paint is simply too far gone to repair(as is the hood,and both will serve as absolute proof of condition for the pending litigation), and of five hatches I have looked at, all are pretty useable on the outside at but seriously eaten up on inspection with a mirror/borescope. I have found a later non-vented hatch that is suitable. Composite from John at BetaMotorsports-no rust issues ever!. John has sent me a wealth of pictures, and I am going to the chosen paint and body shop to show them the composit pieces and get their take before ordering. Anyway, Larry asked me: If you replace the vented hood with a non-vented version how will the car vent?" My answer was either to put vents in it to replace those lost in replacement hatch, or crack the windows. Larry had a great question I had not thought too much about. I realize the cars are not sealed well-this one especially-fumes like you can't believe-but other than actually recreating a vented hood from one that is not, has anyone done anything to vent a moving car(other than rolling down the windows) when giving up the hatch vents? The current plan is to paint the area that the hatch grills cover flat black and to shave the mounting tabs off a set of grills and attach them with emblem tape so the the grill appears to be vented and match the car. This plan is to aleviate the possibility of fumes finding their way past Als idea of restoration where the internal plenum and associated parts are just "thrown in there"; because of broken/missing parts the plenums are not installed even close to correctly, and I am sure that is contributing to the exhaust in the car-though I have not examined the floor/hose/taillight seals yet. Will I have a full set of NOS pieces(other than the hatch) so I can reproduce them if necessary, and the only part of reproducing the hatch opening that I see as an issue is forming the stiffening flanges at the top(closest to the glass) because of limited access to the area for appropriate tools. Thoughts, ideas, brainstorms... Will

Well, I was hoping this afternoon would be be the day to start the 300ZXC after the engine swap...NOT! I went out an bought Dexron/Mercon, Prestone, and seriously high detergent oil, took the old battery to be tested after trickle-charging it for 48 hours, filled all of the fluiuds except...in the bustle of the day forgot to get some GAS! I drained the stinkiest of the stuff I have ever smelled out of the tank, and intend to flush the lines before plumbing the injectors. Oh well, a fresh start, and a good nights sleep never hurt anyone when getting ready to crank a newly replaced, previously stored engine...hopefully I will find I didn't miss anything else... Hopefully I will be able to get the tag and the insurance in time for the CZC meeting tomorrow night. Will

Great Find! Must have been ahead of its time-wide wheels narrow tires... Will

Our Member "Ed" converted 280ZX power windows for use in his 240Z-his gallery probably holds some pictures of what he did... Will

I'll see about posting some pictures on Monday, the wheels are in storage, I have just shy of $145 in them (pd 34 each plus 6% sales tax at the PNP) plus shiipping cost-pm me your address and I'll figure that. Will

240Z 6 Alpha1 GTO Replica 6 300ZX 6 Datsun Roadster 4 280zx 6 Volvo 6 Dodge truck 8 2 spare L28Ets 12 Riding Mower 4 chainsaw 1 Weedwhacker 1 RC Z (Nitro?) 1 Generator 4 13 Zs at the farm 108 11 Roadsters at the farm 44 Farm Tractor 8 Total 233 I think I reached the point where CI may stand for Cholesterol Index...and my age is seriously overshadowed... Will PS, Don't you just hate Proportional spacing for lining things up?

I have a couple of sets if you can't find any from the above sources. Will

I missed this thread somehow, I have always thought the Z32 was the second most beautiful Z-just behind the 240Z. I bought a Z32 convertible around a month ago-bent valves, worn seats, dirty ultra suede, missing the bass knob on the original radio, weathertight but worn top(the opaque back window cracked when I folded the top down...so she has been covered when I am not working on her.) a chunk missing out of the lower lip-cracked fog light lenses, missing splash panels, broken antenna drive, and other odds and ends issues. It had been sitting for over 2 years. It was almost complete, and totally original. The weather strips were good as was the original super white pearl paint I had asked about it last year just in conversation, and the owner of the shop-Mickey Carter, pulled me aside one day and said the delays with the car were coming to an end, and the owner was anxious to sell it. I offered $1,000 and was handed the title and a titanium key! I towed her home. put a battery in to check systems-but not the primary ignition- and found everything I could check without starting the car worked except the digital clock, and the CD changer(the mechanism made noise, but not through the speakers, but I discovered someone had taken it lose form its mounts, na dit may well be disconnected signal wise. Neither theThe FSM nor the Owners manual deal well with the radio in a convertible...and I still have to find a replacement Bass knob! Will I bought a documented 26K JDM engine, and have replaced the valve cover gaskets, the PCV valves and hoses, the cooling and fuel system hoses, the waterpump, all of the belts, thermostat, engine harness, plugged the throttle body coolant(warming) removed and plugged the EGR, manifold/throttlebody warming plumbing and passages, and several other things listed in five pages of a Nissan invoice-including most of the parts witn issues listed earlier. I have new leather, a new top is on the way, I am hunting down the bass knob for the radio, and truing to find the ultra suede replacement article I found and thought I bookmarked right after buying the car. This week end should be the last of the engine work, and I expect to start her up Tuesday...and maybe even drive her to the Z club meeting that night!

Well, while not an L series, I am getting ready to be in a similar situation with another Z, This weekend I will be starting up the JMD engine I put in my Z32, By the paperwork attached to the engine it has been 2 years since it was run and has around 26K on the clock. It was compression checked right before it came to me, but not run. I drained the gas for the tank-the car had not run in over 2 years either and this was the stinkiest gas I have ever smelled. I am going to pump some carb cleaner through the tank and fuel system-but not to the injectors because everything I could find says using conventional dedicated injector cleaning solution the injectors on a VG always results in corrosion in them followed by expensive replacement. I have both Seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil, and intend to use one in the gas and the other in oil-along with Rotella-for the first 500 miles(monitoring the oil and modifying this schedule as led by the oil consistancy). This engine has around 26K(documented) on it, but because of sitting up I want to give it every opportunity at a long and healthy life. as I plan to keep this car as a companion for my 240Z Any thought or suggestions? Will PS this was the cleanest used engine I have ever seen, (not the typical pressure washing patterns under the protective coating) and it was very obvious the PO loved the car it came from-the best spark plugs that can be found for this engine were in it as was a Greddy OIL sensor adaptor, and the any other longevity touting JDM tidbit(most of those that will fit will end up on my 240Z).

You might PM Victor, this is a five year old thread, and if it is off the front page the next time Victor logs on, he might well miss it. Will

Better Business Bureau shows 1 complaint in 33 years and rates him a B. http://www.la.bbb.org/BusinessReport.aspx?CompanyID=13030433 From the Better Business Bureau " Our opinion of what this rating means: A good rating that still implies reputability. The rating may relate to length of time in business, a past problem that’s been corrected, or something else that does not cause problems for consumers. We believe a company with this rating would generally conduct business and respond to any complaints satisfactorily." Esprist-do you have a shop? Lots of new parts in the member classifieds for a new member... Will

There are inexpensive repair kits that do actually work in almost every national parts house chain-the key to making them look right is to do a good taping job before applying the brush on conductive paint(if you are careful in maskinging the area, no one will be able to see your repair. Will

One just sold on ebay for around $30 framed! Will

If I had purchased the car, I would get some law enforcement involved-the proof the seller was aware that there could, and probably was, a problem is clearly documented here and in ebays internal messaging system-before the auction ended. The buyer could get his money back and the seller would have to deal with the situation he was aware of and chose to ignore. Will

search "bad ebayer list", and you will get the largest(mostly about one problem child...), but it has links to another one or two. Will

Show me how a properly engineered solid axle can outperform a properly engineered IRS on any conventional four wheeled production vehicle with the same center of gravity and the same conventional automotive tires-I can't wrap my head around it, and I want to understand and I don't! Feel free to direct me to an article, Magazine, or book, Just point me in the right direction-preferably without using your middle finger! Will