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Yo! TEXASZ, How 'bout posting a picture of the struts before you install them? Thanks, Will

I agree-great article! When I bought the Dodge, I used one trick they didn't mention. I led them to believe they were going to finance the purchase. I walked them through lowering the price, raising the rate, stripping out the parts I didn't want, and holding the price for 24 hours. The next day I brought in a check for the price on the page. That turned the place upside down, but after a couple of hours, they brought me the keys and I drove off. Funny how you can really use greed against some people! Will

That is "Mike" time, he has discovered a way to get 53 hours out of a 24 hour day! But the only way it works is to keep the server that this site resides on strictly to that clock! Have you seen racergirl-a 53 hour day looks better all the time!!! Now if he can only extend the time management algorythm to the rest of us, that, and I still gotta find my portable hole :laugh: ! Bryan, Have I got a deal for you! Through a glorious twist of fate-and threats of bodily injury- I still have these babys available for you! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10657&sort=1&cat=500&page=3 For some reason, out absent resident wino didn't use the buy it now button! Some one please take a picture of the uninstalled struts and post them!!! Will

I realize you are probably kidding, but why not just weld all of the suspension components together, you don't need the compliance of springs ! Swaybars are for sissies ! Shocks just add to the spring weight-those are for pansies anyway ! Then you need to ad some Dubs with a rubberband around them for wheels and tires-no need for air pressure-just more sissie cushioning ! Make it a true ridgid assembly, cushioning if for wee girls ! Real men need to have their teeth chip every time they roll over a dime, and if the tires slip, it must be because all of the fiberglass, kevlar, and carbon fiber we added made the engine put out another 200HP :stupid: ! Will

Capt Mark, Please lay out your illuminas, and post a picture for me. Thanks, Will

TomoHawk, there is a seal(o-ring) too Look at the FSM, both the cap and the seal are called for! I have never pulled an injector that left its cap in the manifold. I have pulled some with a cracked cap. The plate in the middle of the intake is for dinner! Actually, if you are talking about the plate on the top of the manifold between runners 3 and 4, I think it is to keep the heat from the exhaust from flowing up through the manifold, but that is only a guess. There is probably a much better reason having to do with some option somewhere, I don't think Nissan would have taken the expense to put that hole there just to have to put a little more money in making and installing a plate over it! Will

Here is what I saw on this restoration 1)Engine Compartment: air cleaner, coil, corrosion on the valve cover, rust on almost all of the hardware(nuts, bolts,brake fluid caps, solonoid, battery hold down...), rust near battery tray, original squirter plumbing, junkyard crayon on the bell housing, empty mounting holes, Hayden electric fan-conveniently no photos showing the frame rails from above at all. Frame rails from below are beat up at the front, and show rust in the seams and drain hole. Holes in radiator support. 2)Spectacular interior: Cracked console with extra holes in it! Cut wiring hanging from under dash. No map light cover-the white housing is showing! Green fuzz on vents, missing seat mechanism covers, wrong steering wheel, rust on the roll bar mount, missing foot rest cover, pieces out of the rear deck finisher, no luggage straps(or even holes in the carpet for them), definite interferance between the seats and the roll bar, water spots on the shock tower vinyl, a cut in the back of the passenger seat, water marks at the bottom lower corner of the evaporator housing. 3)Exterior: Wrong door mirrors, no hatch emblems, rust bubbles ahead of DSR wheel and near tail pipe, bent lower rear panel, Something wrong with passenger side door sill. Rusty hatch hardware. Overspray on the undercoat. I guess many of the things I saw are the difference between freshening/modding and restoring. But some of them(original washer plumbing) are just indicative of trying to save a buck? To have been gone through three years ago, the car should have been more detailed when gone through-if the hardware rust has come up since then, imagine what will happen if the car sees rain. A broken console, hanginging disconnected or cut wiring, water spots on the vinyl, rust bubbles, and only two pictures of the improtant areas of the car-oops and a wealth of misleading and vague info to add hype. The person selling it read one book on Zs, and considers himself to be well educated on them. The car is a pretty driver, but if it is a $13,000 '72, then mine will be a $23,000 example, and I haven't seen a modified low mileage 240Z bring that. Will

Pick this one apart! I figure it is a $6,000 to $8000 car on a good day. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4536198385&category=6187 Too many things that are wrong with the "restoration", but a nice car. Check out all of the fluf and the pompas knowledge! Will

Welcome, and congratulations on the find! Will

Get some "Frieze12", and charge it for now-no regulation, no conversion, and it works great. 10 minues to charge, and you can be cool again-if it leaks out for $5-$10 you can know the shop isn't lying to you. Will

http://www.autospeed.com/ Will

Probably should visit HybridZ for that kind of question, but good lucck. Will

TomoHawk, Autospeed did an excellent series of articles on intake modifications. Will

I think it was a great idea that should have followed the other stitching in the car. Many european car dashes were finished that way at the time. The worksmanship is excellent. I perfer the factory finish, but I would take that over a cracked dash any day. Carl, it anit the years, its the mileage!! Will

That is what they are paid to know better than to do! Did they just open? With a problem like that I would have to be right over their shoulder-who knows what they goofed up that you don't know about. I guess you will after a couple of rains-I hope you got a guarantee that is enforceable. I hate it for you. Will

Kats, You are a wonderous and valuable enthusiast, posts from you have answered questions I did not know to ask. I poked fun at the sticker you used to cover a hole, but as with the rest of your work, I admire the result, and the road you have chosen to get there. It is my belief that SportZ magazine should cover the work done by several members here to their own cars, and you are at the top of that list. While I do not take the pains you do to have your Z so correct, I do admire and stand in awe of the accomplishments you have made on that task. Thank you for your many and enthusiastic contributions to this club and to the Z hobby. Will

Not with out replacing the entire roof! Sorry, Will

If a picture of the dissassembled mount would help, I can provide one. Will

Stephen is right! Will

Sorry Tomohawk, I misread your post-thought he plastic thingamajig was in the injector, not in the head, there is a seal... Will

I'll see if I can't pull one out and post a picture tomorrow-uh, later today Will

Chris, I pass the bullseye to you! Will

TomoHawk, The plastic insert is a filter, they are not ment to come out, but can be removed if you are careful. That filter is the reason I back flush my injectors-it keeps crap form deteriorating lines and surfaces out of the pintle, meaning the only thing that can block the injector is a deposit from the fuel, and Carbureator cleaner is designed to disolve what-deposits from fuel! Back flushing empies the filter. I will post a picture when I can get to the rail, headlight covers, led conversions, and polishing my wheels comes first-after wife, son, bills, and FOOD! Will

I think I would just wipe it very lightly with a dry microfiber cloth, the foam behind the vinyl is 30plus years old to very suseptable to the crumblies! Will