MH77280Z

Decided to just decouple the turn signal switch and it gave enough room to lift the dash. Took only Speedo cable out from the back. Didn’t had to take any tachometer wires!!!

Do I need to remove these 4 bolts holding steering column to firewall?

Guys, dumb question ... do i also need to unplug the harness around the steering column for the dash to slide out? After removing the two steering column bolts the column has hardly moved. Is this because of the harness around it holding it in place? also, are there any bolt near the driver and passenger kick panels apart from the two facing upwards? I am done with: - remove center console - remove windshield finisher 4x screws - remove front instrument panel (also removed 2 screws holding the bracket for two center air ducts) - removed 6x dash bolts near firewall - removed 4x bolts near trans tunnel (2x each sides) - removed 2x bolts facing up, one on each side near the vent manual lever - removed 2x 12mm bolts holding steering column @Av8ferg Here are the bolts you’ll need to remove. Just did this job. All are 10 mm except the steering column. -6 near windshield under finisher. A 1/4 socket wrench with short swivel extension worked best . - there is one bolt on each side near kick panels. One next to hood release, screw upwards towards roof. And same on the passenger side - 4 (2 per side) where the dash frame bolts to trans tunnel - Speedo cable (what Captain Obvious said) - 2 x 12mm bolts holding the steering column. They help lower the column so you can get the frame clear. - your probably hanging up right around the steering column. Where those two 12mm bolt screw into. It’s a flat plate that the dash frame has to be lifted over. The dash comes out easier if you rock the bottom upwards towards tje windshield and the up and out . Don’t forget the 3 wire harness connections that going in to a panel in the passenger side firewall.

Got it, yes i agree it is a thin piece of metal. I will cut the rubber around it so that it just lifts up on it own. No prying of this.

Once the rope is channeled in the rubber on the bench is it hard to fit in the grove while u pull it out? any gotchas? or just firmly position the windshield down and slowly pull the string out. Is it doable in the first try or did u make multiple attempts. I am a bit nervous taking the mirror ON and OFF again etc. May be overthinking!!!

@Patcon warp what?

Hi Guys, is the $60 weatherstrip for windshield at ZCD a good fit? they also have a $400 OEM version. Whats the difference and is it worth it? later is backorder. What about installation experience? anyone? can it be done with the dash still ON? my last item on the list is windshield moulding. It is holding but center trip as come off as it is brittle. How hard it is to take the original one out. Remove the left and right trim from the pillars and push the rubber out? There is a good installation video here though:

Looks very nice … I was thinking the same but got lazy before they powdered it. Getting the powder off is a pain. It is a pretty heavy layer.

Thanks. Yes the wires were just marked as I was working on the starter and had to take the 3 out so just marked them in order from the firewall out 🙂

Guys, working with the starter i probably pulled this vacuum line from somewhere. It is coming from inside the firewall probably to the vacuum switch near the heater core etc. any idea where it connects in the engine?

For sure 🫡

Guys i had installed this ignition switch brand new 6-8 months ago and seems like after installing a new one today from Oriellys the car starts like a dream. In the process cleaned all grounds and wires and a new starter. Planning to keep this new one in. I really appreciate everyone's input. This one could had been a nightmare but at the end turned out to be the ignition switch.

Checking the ignition switch today and will get back ...

I am picking a new ignition switch from Orielly's tomorrow. Lets see if that makes any difference. Meanwhile I think I need to start tracing the voltage back from the solenoid I think, that's the only way to figure this thing out i believe.

This is my ignition relay

What wires would those be? I mean input at least?

I just tried a spare ignition relay as well #3 and same result it just clicks. Seems like it is energizing but somewhere the voltage is getting dropped. I think there is a relay under the seat as well? I have a feeling it is not the relays!!!

It is underneath the black box but there are two sides under the top plate on 77 at least. Thats what i see. I am 100% i was working with the correct relay.

Can it be ignition relay?

Yes the relay was on the right side of it. This one… I had a spare one tried this too.

Update: Cleaned all 4 grounds (engine, intake, firewall and AFM) - same result - only click at passenger relay no power to starter Cleaned all 4 contacts under the car at the inhibitor switch - same result - only click at passenger relay no power to starter Took off starter relay and shorted two BY connectors - same result - only click at passenger relay no power to starter What next? is this click at the passenger relay panel coming from ignition relay?

When i turn the key to ON without the seat belt inserted, i hear a beep. With the seat belt harness connected no beep. Can I assume the seat belt relay is working?

Let me bypass the neutral safety switch first and see if it changes anything. Appreciate your generous offer to help.

Automatic Transmission

The click is coming from the passenger side relay panel. Sorry for the confusion. I have not checked voltage at either starter or ignition relays either. I was planning to bypass the inhibitor switch first as it is a bit easy with just shorting the two wires?