Av8ferg

Jim, This is a good idea. The only problem is now I have a chokepoint between the collectors off the header and the exhaust line I purchased. I’d be going from 2 inch collectors, run 24” downstream with a 2” and pipe and then meet 2 1/2 inch pipe. I still need someone to weld the v-band on the pipe too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plait, got the exhaust mocked up, so I could figure out the extension to need. Good news is my header came with ~ 30” Y pipe, and that length and beds are perfect to mate of to the Zstory exhaust. So I’m going to the muffler shop and see if I can have them fabricate an identical pipe that 2.5” instead of 2” secondary pipe. See pics below. The “S” pipe is slightly touching the bolt on the control arm but otherwise it’s a good fit. Green circle on the last pic is my 2” extension pipe off the header. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chas, very nice and I almost went that route. After talking to Sean at Zstory he really seemed to be someone you can trust and if you have issues he’s going to help resolve it. I’ll hang everything tomorrow and then take exact measurements from the dual down pipe to his V-band connector. He threw in two extra V-band connectors and clamps for me. I’ll buy a dual 2” to 2.5” merge pipe and have it bent right and weld the v-band to the 2.5” side and hopefully it will work. I didn’t want to spend the money initially for his header before I saw if I could make my header work and I think I can. I like challenges....I make me better at solving problems. This car is one challenge after another, I should be a genius by now [emoji23]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, that lift is in my garage. It was the only way I was going to be able to keep the Z. The exhaust is from ZStory. Super nice quality, stainless steel with beautiful welds and turns. Sean at ZStory is great. This was less than getting a standard crap exhaust installed locally. I have a few challenges to overcome. I plan to install this back to front tomorrow. He’s the issue. My header collectors terminate into two 2” pipes. My headers came with a 2” Y pipe that would go to a 2” exhaust line. These Zstory pipes are 2.5” and have a V-band connector at the resonator. So I need to Y pipe with 2” inlets to a 2.5” v-band outlet. See all the below pics. If anyone has a solution let me know. I think I just to buy a Y pipe with 2” inlets and 2.5” outlet and have someone weld the extra v-band fitting Sean gave me to 2.5” outlet on the Y pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a wreck! Can’t believe he’s asking this much! https://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/d/seneca-1978-datsun-280z/7400729471.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great video, we need more cow bell next time!! Congrats on getting it road worthy. It’s more work than one thinks and why some many project cars never get finished. Even after I finish my Z and make the interior look like it wasn’t parked on Venus for a decade my wife will probably never want to ride in it. 1. Too Loud 2. Too Bumpy 3. No XM radio 4. No heated seats 5. Too many rattles 6. Embarrassed to be seen by others 7. Smells funny 8. No cup holders 9. “Is that gas I smell” 10. No airbags...”Is this safe” If you watch this video below and don’t laugh then you have no soul! One of my favorite movies. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea my neighbor came over and said what was all the noise over here. I pulled in the street and I left it running for about a min but was worried I’d get some complaints. But there is good news.....Santa came early this year. Found this at my front door after sitting through 5 hrs grueling hours of my daughters Nutcracker Dress Rehearsal last night. 5 hours and her parts are 15 mins max. [emoji848] These pipes are big!!! Maybe overkill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, hadn’t thought about that. The good news is the engine never ran for more that 2-3 mins continuously. Temp didn’t get too hot. She’s finally under her own power....great feeling of accomplishment but still lots to work out...like an exhaust, and bleeding the front brakes, an alignment and torque down the remaining parts of the front suspension. She drove up here on here own power! Baby steps... At least I can get a good view from below now to make all that happen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, somehow the video dropped off the thread. Here it is again. Just put the propeller shaft back on and about to fill the transmission. She might move on her on power vs my back today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I had some challenges today getting the engine started but phoned a friend “Captain Obvious” and he steered a mere mortal like me to success. First we had no spark, we narrowed that down to a bad ignition unit on my ZX distributor, put in a backup then we had spark but no ignition. Fuel pressure was 35psi. I couldn’t smell fuel so we guessed that the injectors were not getting power. Had a old fuse link on the injector power that goes to + side of battery. Put the link on a multi-meter and it had higher resistance that expected. I had just bought a new one from Banzi Motorworks (didn’t want to install earlier incase if I had a bad connection I didn’t want to burn it up. ($38 part). Put that one one and it fired up. Here’s a link to a video of it starting and running after I got the timing set and idle adjustment close. Thanks for all the help! You guys are awesome! I owe Bruce more beer!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks CO. I did run that wire to the temp sensor in the head. No routing issues, clean install. I’ll take a closer pic to show you. I’m going to follow your starting sequence advice verbatim. I don’t think I will start right away. Going to get some fresh gas this AM. Don’t know how off timing will be or even if the distributor I rebuilt will function properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally finished all the hook ups, re-wiring, hoses and cooling system. It took way more time than I expected. She’s was done at 3pm today but kids got off school bus so I need to wait until tomorrow. Like I said I hope it doesn’t blow up [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, final step before filling the cooling system today was to flush the heater core. Ran a garden hose in the inlet and a hose out the outlet to a bucket. Ran for fresh water for 5 mins, then filled the core with Distilled Vinegar and let set 30 mins, flushed again and ran vinegar again sitting 30 mins and ran fresh water and then blew out all remaining liquid. The water ran brown the first 15 secs on first flush. I got a fair bit of debris out of the core and that stuff that won’t be in my engine. Of note, when flushing the vinegar out after sitting 30 mins, the water came out green for the first 15-20 secs, I’m assuming glthat was build up on the copper coils. Here’s the particles in the bottom of the bucket. Now I have to flush the tankless water heater for the house, it’s time and I have all the gear out already. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, yes I had a local guy here sandblast everything and powder coat it all satin black. Wasn’t that expensive either. Probably cost me $250 to do the entire front suspension with him . That included that brush guard plate. So these end links bolts are 6” and there is NO WAY I’m going to be able to persuade them on. It’s a 3/8” bolt that’s 6 inches long. I couldn’t find one in 3/8” longer than 6” at ACE. Really need a 7” bolt to make this happen. Will try Lowe’s or AutoZone next, or go to Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is frustrating. I’ve been fighting these ends links for some time. Gave up a few weeks ago to to finish up the engine install work but I need to put this suspension bits to rest. I bought theses End Link/bushing set from MSA. They seem too short. I looked at previous threads with people having similar problems but those solutions don’t solve mine. Jacking up the strut won’t change the dynamics here. The bolts are either too short or the sleeve in the middle of the end links is too long. I can either buy a bolt 1/2” longer or shave the sleeves down a bit on a grinder. Shaving the inner sleeve will change the sway bar geometry but a longer bolt has no consequence as I see it. Anyone had to deal with this? Stock sway bar BTW. Why does everything have to be a challenge? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t think this was plastic. Here a pick of a new OEM on for sale on Zcardepot. Also is a pic of the one that came off the engine I bought. Looks like the guy plugged up on port with a sensor. Not sure why unless he was just using it as a plug . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Parts finally arrived from MSA, so I now I have all the pasts I need to get this engine started. Two questions. 1. The Z and Zx have different routing for the heater hoses. The ZX has a pressure regulator on the hear hose near cylinder 5 and the Z doesn’t. Anyone know about this? I think have the ZX part in my box of parts they I pulled off the engine when I bought it from the salvage yard. Is it a better way to go or just plumb it like.a Z. look at the images below.

Chas, makes sense. Thanks for making it 100% clear. I’m sure a lot of people will have the same questions about this and it’s clearly spelled out in this thread. It’s a good look for sure.

So EuroDat had mentioned that a 240z stock from valance was too short to fit and the the Radiator brace hung too low. These pic below are from Sean at Zstory. I have been chatting with him about mufflers and he sent me pics of his cars front. It’s a 280z he imported from the US and then put the 240z front on. I asked him about it and he said it fit fine. I wonder if he’s just covering the lower radiator brace with the lip he put under the valance. He sent me these pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, I appreciate it. If you have one you’re willing to part with I’d be grateful. Let me know what you want for it. Thanks again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks...will email the guy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is pretty funny and somewhat true. You already have one of the best anti theft devices.

Unfortunately that’s the drivers side. For some odd reason there are more driver’s sides out there. All the passenger sides I found had dents or gouges. Was trying to forgo paying for body work. Do you agree this is the drivers side. The seller doesn’t specify Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, I wonder if it fits on the stock 280z lower valance? It’s would be perfect for what I want. The BRE is just a little to big. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chas, you’re the best...thank you trying. I thought I found one, paid for it and then got an email saying they had already sold it and they refunded my money. Interesting website, I have never heard of but they sell all sorts of vintage original Z parts and are very responsive. https://maseraticompound.com/search?q=280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk