JMT240KGTR

I guess milling the block to "true up" warpage is justified, but yeah as I said, as a compression raising exercise I'd prefer shaving the head. There's a fellow here in Oz who used to work for the Datsun racing team and he's been boring out L24-L28 .120" (3mm) for years; if it can be done with an L28 to fit 89mm 200SX pistons with a stroker combo, why not an L24 to 86mm? Personally we have done and have friends who have bored out L series 6's .120"+ and they've never had problems; all depends on the application I guess. As for a guide to milling the head and compression gains, this all depends on the initial chamber volume, Nissan heads had an assortment of chamber designs, very similar but size wise can differ considerably; take the readily available N42 off an L28-chamber size 44cc's and compare that to the P90, comes in at around 52cc+ or thereabouts. Then you have the early version heads with smaller chambers 38-41cc's but downside is smaller valves-can be remedied by having larger valves and seats installed. If you want to stick with the L24 set up then I would do this:- get yourself an N42 head (comes with the large 44mm inlet valves, and is cheap, easy to find), mill/shave it a maximum!!!! of .030"- .040" (any more than this is not recommended unless you want to fit cam tower shims etc etc), bore the block .120", use L24 rods and crank, flat top pistons, new rings, bearings etc, cam, carbs and so on. The above should produce a C/R of 10-10.5:1, nice and healthy! Opinions vary on the boring capacity of the L series but if the former Datsun Team mechanic has done it over and over as his daily business, then it's got to be pretty damn close to being O.K. James

I've never milled the block before, but the head yes. On an L24 I built with the old man a few years back we used L24 rods and crank, bored the cylinders to 86mm (280 bore), L28 flat top pistons, shaved the head .040", used 240Z round top carbs, extractors, 2.25" exhaust, elec dizzy, and suitable cam. Also fitted new chain and guides and deemed cam tower shims unnecessary. This engine was powerful, love to rev and was very responsive. I personally wouldn't mill the block, you get the same results if you do the head and if you do both, you'll find you chain will be quite slack; you'll then need to fit cam tower shims, sutiable length valves and springs, rocker arms, lash pads etc etc. There is a site somewhere on the net, maybe someone can point it out but it's more relevant to you seeing your in the states, and it refers to U.S parts/specs and combo's available. James

Oops, the pistons use three rings, top compression ring and two oil rings.

There are many options. - bore the cylinders out 3mm = 2.6L or - retain standard bore, fit in 260/280 rods and crank, = 2.6L or - bore cylinders 3mm AND fit 260/280 rods and crank = 2.8L To increase compression, factor in the head cylinder volume, if it's large capacity fit flat top pistons, if not, use dished (if thats what you already have) and shave the head .030" (max recommended before other items require mods). Also ensure the head has large enough valves to enable the motor to breathe; high comp, no breath, bad news! You want to get the hot gas out! Remember that L24/26/28 used dished & flat top pistons, so your combinations will have to factor these in. If you want to stay the L24 route, then I'd bore the block 3mm and stick with the L24 rods, as opposed to the standard 2.6 configuration of longer stroke with L24 bore; advantage is retaining quicker revving engine with slight increase in displacement as opposed to losing rev's to the 2.6/2.8 crank. There is a limit to these basic mods though and you won't compare to a fully worked up L28, but you will gain significant power. Build it with high comp, free flowing head, extractors, twin carbs, elec dizzy, suitable cam and you will have a quick car; the L28 is good, but the old L24 hasn't expired either. James

Yeah it is a nice car; powerful too! What is it, the 427 Chev engine??? or just the 350?

By the way fellas I'm getting my 2 door coupe delivered tonight!!! I'm hoping to borrow a digital camera so I can post pics shortly. :classic: :classic: :classic: :classic: :classic: :classic:

Good idea there mperdue (Michael), will follow this up! Sahunt, as Gavin said, the handling of the C110 is not as good as the Z car for the reasons he pointed out, but with stiff springs, lowered suspension, and wider wheels (GTR flared out to fit) they handle much better. Bear in mind with the C110 like other GTR the base models were produced as passenger cars, unlike the beast of the Z which was/is a production sports car. The Z and K share the differential R180 available 3.54 ratio, gearboxes (except 240Z early type), engines (240K GT available with twin SU carburettors) and front brakes (twin spot calipers). James

Investigate other C110/240K owners, get a register going, owners pics etc etc.:classic:

Well here's me, one of the newer guys to have joined... Just having a beer or ten after work on a Friday!

Thanks for the info Zedrally, great news; only thing is, I know I suggested it but I wouldn't be able to maintain it! 2 kids, wife, nag nag nag!!!:tapemouth Lachlan/Michael, any of you guys willing to put your hand up and start investigating. I can be the Melbourne reporter, Alfa QLD, Kyteler NZLD! I know of a few fellas with K's down here and I could start a Melbourne registry at least. James

Yeah no more than $20 for set of four. I'll probably go down in the next few days and I'll let you know

That's a mean looking C210! I'll get some centre caps for you from the wreckers and I'll advise how much to ship over; shouldn't be too much, they're pretty lightweight. James

That bumper was off a sedan, 76 I think, same bolt pattern etc. That car belongs to a guy here in Melbourne now, he's the guy I'm getting my 'new' 240K coupe from. Sort of ends up like a swap I guess:classic: The centre caps were from a C210 Skyline, removed the clamps they had and just tight fitted the caps to the wheel. All depends on your wheel design ie if your centre protudes out from the wheel you might have to do the same, if it doesn't protrude then you may need to retain the clamp so that it can be pushed into the centre and expand once in. James

Pic 6. LHS rear quarter view. I bought this car in 1997 for $200, drove it from time to time along with my 260Z, and attempted a GTR replica late 2002. I stuffed up the paint job and was really disappointed, so I got rid of it for the sedan I have now. anywa as you know, I'm getting another coupe and I won't stuff around this time!:classic:

Pic 5, side view. Note, trial fit of the flares, hadn't cut out the rear guards at this stage.

Pic 4. 260Z alloys w/Skyline centre caps, handy mod for when you lose the Zed centres!

Pic 3, rear light panel before modifying rear lights

Pic 2. 3/4 view