mdbrandy

Thanks for the info 2ManyZ's - I'm looking at a couple of 14" Wheels that MSA sells, so I ought to be in the ballpark. I'm surprized that this question has never come up before, but I couldn't find it in the forum archives!

Neither could I. I figured maybe someone that had recently bought a "14 inch" aftermarket wheel or something could go out and put a tape measure to it...I'd appreciate it :classic: . Essentially, I don't want to increase the steering effort in the car by changing the wheel, so I'd like to get one with a wheel about the same size. So I need to know what size is what... Thanks.

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When I was cruizing cross-country in my 280Z "back in the day", my favorite driving album was REO Speedwagon's double live "You Get What You Play For".

Quick question: When a steering wheel is said to be "14 inch diameter", what does that mean exactly? Is it the absolute measurement from the rim outside to outside, or is it the diameter from the center of the rim on one side to the center of the rim on the other. I'm trying to compare aftermarket wheels to the OEM wheel on my 1978 280Z. The OEM wheel is 15" from outside to outside, or 14" from the center of the rim on one side to the center of the rim on the other. Anybody know? Thanks.

Hmm. The one I had trouble with was in the block closest to the radiator, and was the link closest to the fender. It is marked ACC and IGN. What I don't know is if the circuits in a 1976 car are similar enough to those in my 1978 car to make my experience applicable. Things like the fact that my VR is integral to the alternator, and probably other changes might make my car different enough for it not to act the same. Guess I'm out of ideas. Sorry.

Interesting. Very nice sets of "Z" hubcaps on e-bay seem to go for around $100US plus or minus, depending on how nice they are. The "D" ones go for $400-$500 if they're really nice. I don't know how much Japanese market ones might go for. I'd never even considered that they would be different! (that's another reason I love this site - the first time I owned Z's, from 1978-1989, there was no way to get an international perspective on the history!). Anyway, the shipping would probably be the killer!

We don't use screws either, whether the US catalog says we do or not! You're probably right - if another Datsun model used screws from the top for similar vents, then the fiche authors probably just got it wrong for the Z's . Thanks!

I didn't know, but I guess I'm convinced now that the vents/drain tubes in a box the PO gave me are probably original to the car. The tubes are rubber, and are in good shape. Pliable and all. The vents are kind of rough.

Fantastic, kats! Thanks! The part number on that bag of clips does not appear in the US fiche at all, in the index or anywhere else. It is a little hard to see though the reflection in your picture - is it 90899-E4100? Or maybe 90829-E4100? I guess that makes more sense... BTW, I have my rubber drain pipes too, and they look like they are much more robust than the plastic ones (I don't have my new plastic ones yet). I'll probably use them too, along with the new duct! Thanks!

Mine showed continuity in some configurations, and infinite resistance in others. I assume you pulled it and tested it off the car, so you changed the configuration by doing that. It might be broken when you bent it back to put it back on. It is my understanding that the fusible links are like very slow fuses - allow a lot of current for longer than a fuse. So, I would assume that shorting a 30 amp fuse across the terminals would be at least as safe as having the link there, since it would blow faster than the link. However, it might also blow too easily; I'm not sure. Getting known good continuity across those terminal should allow the guages to come back up at the acc ignition position even before starting, though. When mine was bad, all the guages were dead. Normally, things like the gas guage would register at acc even with the car engine off.

What year Z? I just lost all my dash guages on my 1978 280Z the other day, and it turned out to be a fusible link. The link looked fine, and if I continuity tested it, it was fine - sometimes. Wiggle it around and it cut on and off. It was the big brown one in the forward fusible link block if you have a late 280. Otherwise, be sure those fusible links really are good. I got new ones from Chloe at MidwestZ, and all has been good since. Good luck.

http://chartermi.net/~benjlv/links.htm That was probably it. "Ultimate Z Car Links"

I have no clue at this point. The screw/nut thing seems to be unworkable, but then why is it on the fiche? Who knows. I suppose even Datsun could make a mistake . Did you see my question about gluing that foam on the vents Chloe has? Don't see how that'll work well with that open cell foam. Be hard to align the vents too, but I suppose that isn't critical. Does everyone out there with intact series 1 cars have the clips holding things together? I think we need a survey!

Right. As I mentioned, when I dissassembled the car, the vents were already in a box from the PO, and the grills were attached to the hatch with those nuts I show. I have no clips. As you note, I don't see how nuts would work, but the fiche is inconsistent. What fun! :tapemouth

And just for discussions sake, here's the fiche picture with the numbers I reference above.

OK, doing a little digging in the fiche. No clips in evidence that I can see. The vent system seems to be comprised of (per the fiche at least): Looking at fiche 6-H6/ 121-5, it looks like the vent system has the following parts: 55 90820-E4100 ASSY-DUCT REAR VENTILATOR OUTOR (2) 56 90828-E4101 TUBE-DRAIN (2) 57 08961-43210 NUT-PUSH ON SPRING (4) 63 90950-E4101 GRILLE-REAR VENTILATOR OUTER (2) 64 08530-41620 SCREW - TAPPING M4 (4) I had attached a picture of the nuts holding one of my grills on, but the other side had a different set of two nuts - hollow, pushon type nuts that might be the 43210 above (pic attached). Might the clips have been a very early method that was dispensed with quickly, and didn't even make the fiche? However, given the fiche picture, how would the duct actually be held onto the inside of the hatch? Arggghh!

Yes! That's about what I was envisioning after Chris tutored me. Now all I have to do is find some...

Rats, and I was going to hop a plane and pry them off your car!:devious:

Ah. I think I get it now. It's kind of like the screw clips that clip onto the quarter panels that the Marker light screws go through? Except it clips the hatch metal to the vent assembly... On glueing - I've attached a closeup of the assemblies that Chloe is getting (pic courtesy Chloe at MidwestZ). It has an attached foam seal that I'm assuming goes up against the inside of the hatch. How would you silicone seal that?

Hmm. I'm still not following, Chris. What do these "C" clips look like? When I took #215 apart, the drains were already in a parts box, and the grills were being held on by some nuts with integral star washers (see pic). I suspected that it wasn't original. So there are 4 parts? Grill, "box", drain, and c-clip (2?)

Is that a set of "D" hubcaps under the table behind your cute kid, kats? :classic:

Here's the one out of my '70.

Just for clarities sake, the link I originally posted went right to the product page, and doesn't have a picture. A couple levels up, there's a picture: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC07A Good luck.

If yours is round with a Z in the middle, it is covering the quarter panel vent. This is what is supposed to be there if you do not have the vented hatch (thin, horizontal vents on either side under the window on the hatch) .