duffymahoney

Will you explain this a little more?

It's as if Nissan didn't want me to do this:)

The pink ecu wire, doesn't carry a load, it supplys the relay to the ECU. I would need power in the ON and the START. The best way to do that is now my?

Lost power to the ECU while cranking, everything works fine in the on position. If I barely crank the ECU stays on and the car starts.

Well this is the oem new switch. The B/W loses 12v during cranking. The G/W only gets 12v during cranking. I think my option is to tie both parts of the switch together so I get 12v in the on and during cranking. Thoughts? Again, I am not using the stock coil and the stock tach wiring.

Well I am doubting my tests on my new switch. Since it had a broken terminal.

Well the terminal fell off on my brand new switch. I have another coming tomorrow on accident. Hopefully it’s better.

Ok, if I turn the ignition from on to start and not turn it far. My new ignition and old work fine this way. Both have issues if I turn it further to the clockwise. My next giant question is if I turn it full hard to the right or clockwise. The starter doesn’t kick on at all. This is with both ignition switches. Is this normal? You can see my haltech ecu on the passenger kick panel

New switch has power to B/W on start, but not the G/W. I will check again when i get home with clamps, but that is what I found. Also my old switch if you barely turn it start, it catches 50% of the time. That was Richards idea.

Brand new. But one of the rivets wasn’t set firm enough. .

I would put the Mikuni HSR very high on my list to swap from SUs. Amazing throttle response, less then an hour install time. You can retain PCV, stock manifold, stock fuel rail etc.. The most advanced carbs on the market (their claim). https://i.imgur.com/fpoMjbU.mp4 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/133136-mikuni-hsr-45-install/?fbclid=IwAR0KDwLXhsJxkpSJG7l_Bg00K_FcIVCeDNoUJsemkILDP_W7sFJu1JOA2sU http://www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html

I will test mine when I get it! I would guess it would have power in the start position.

Yeah I should do that! I'm 99% sure it's the switch, since I could see it happen on my multi meter.

I am waiting on the stock style terminals to finish it, but I still think the switch is to blame. Which sucks.

Very cool, I didn't know the ballasts design. That makes total sense!

I could move my ecu to the G/W circuit. I bought a new OEM switch. I have a inline fuse coming for that.

I have 2 screws, mine is a 1/71.

Wow lots of good info! You would think that it would need to be hot while cranking. I sometimes get it to be hot for 2-3 starts in a row, then it stops.

B/W from my ignition, a bunch of keyed 12v also seem to be affected by the switch not working correctly. I am guessing it's slow breaking/ getting worse? $40 is an easy thing to test. Also it's like a 5 minute change out.

This site seems to have issues with it. Basically my ignition switch while cranking doesn't give power to B/W wire. I am replacing it.

Well I found one issue. That seems to come and go, but getting worse. It used to be like 1 out 10 times. Now it 9 out 10. Ignition switch is failing IMG_0461.MOV

Also the hose lines, which are filled with hard to get legit gas.

Yeah, getting to those connectors is my issue! I would love to actually use that B&W and fuse it right there, for my iac. But again, it's behind a giant AC.

I have that same wire. So it's just a dangling 12v keyed?! Good old Nissan.

So I think I figured out the short, it was actually mine dumb idea. Originally I was using the G/W wire from behind the tach to pulse (DO) output from the ecu for the IAC. I thought (wrongly) that the wire only went from behind the tach to the coil. and it was a simple way to wire my IAC without adding any new wire. But it also went to the ignition 12v, so when it pulses a negative to run the iac, it was creating a short to the ignition. I have fixed that aspect, but boy was that dumb.