w3wilkes

Don't know which '49 Chevy you had but my wife's '50 chev 3100 had a "push button" start before we hot rodded it. It was a foot "push button" that activated the solenoid for the starter. We have modified the truck a little since we inherited. It was her dads and she drove it in high school over 50 years ago.

At least the Maverik stations in my neck of the woods have dedicated hoses for the ethanol free gas.

Is this true across the board? Would it also apply in the case of a ZX dizzy in my 12/71 Z? The place that did my change is "no more" and they didn't say what coil they used, they did remove the ballast resistor. I've been curious if I ever need a new coil.

Thanks, now I can see the pictures!

I guess I don't have access to these pictures. One question on this... Is that tab that the clutch hard line connects to there on an AT car?

As far as oil type used I've been using Driven HR1 15W-50 Conventional Hot Rod Oil (drivenracingoil.com) and have been very happy with it. Has all the additives for our older engines.

I must recant... Looking at the top cross section diagram with the BR212 in the bottom right corner (assuming relational distances depicted are correct) the distance from the plunger to the exit pot is greater on the firewall side chamber of the MC with a longer shaft allowing it to move greater amounts of fluid both on the input side and output side. With the difference in the shaft length sections for the two reservoirs they will move different amounts of fluid. From the diagram I can't tell if the shaft is a single piece or is it two pieces and the brake fluid between two pieces of shaft moves the further shaft from the firewall. If that makes any sense... @Captain Obvious PS- I've never personally had one apart so I'm totally basing this speculation on the diagrams.

If what @Zed Head says is true then it seems like you could just swap the reservoirs and be done with it rather than rerouting the lines to the brake warning switch.

RIP - David Crosby A great loss to the music world. Founding member of the Byrds w/Roger Mcguinn and then again with CSN and CSNY. A sad day for sure.

Here's a thread I started because I did LED headlights without the MSA harness and had to use the anti-flicker module to initially get my lights to work. I then did the MSA harness after researching a little more and finding out how it was actually implemented which then allowed me to remove the anti-flicker module. Thought this thread might help others going LED headlights. The way Datsun powered the 3 prong plug was opposite of the way "Detroit" did it. And I have no clue how Lucas would have done it. 🤔

@PatconI've probably missed it somewhere but are you going for a "total stock" restoration? If not, you only need one headlight fuse for use with @Zs-ondabrain's Headlight relay upgrade that MSA sells. Of course, it will turn out to be the one that is fried in your fusebox.

@siteunseen Saw on the news that Alabama has had some dicey weather with massive tornados. Hope all is well!

@siteunseen Saw on the news that Alabama has had some dicey weather with massive tornados. Hope all is well!

Really nice!

I could swear I read that someone on these boards was looking for the welting?

Kind of a corny song but definitely funny. I have the album and also their Twisted Laurel album and really like them both. Wife hates both of them, what can I say?

The reason I mention about LED's is because of the way the headlights are wired from the factory. When I went to LED headlights I had to either use the included "anti-flicker" device that came with my LED headlights or put in the Headlight relay upgrade Harness sold by MSA which I've now done. I created a thread that describes the way Datsun wired the headlight circuit vs the way it's changed with the plug and play upgrade harness originally created by @Zs-ondabrain. Since the diagram doesn't show where the high beam indicator is in the circuit it may be that power goes through that connector the "wrong way" for an LED bulb. Here's a link to the thread;

I went a little different route with my rocker switch. Since the hand throttle was removed I repurposed the slot.

You mentioned LED. They're the equivalent of a one-way valve and will only pass power in one direction. Any possibility it's a direction issue with the bulb? Can the connector wires be reversed?

Is this Ebay seller the "California Datsun" that I've seen warnings about on these forums? Since MSA no longer sells the rear speaker box for a 240Z I was thinking of buying this one. It looks like what MSA used to sell.

Didn't know the 260 was factory. My 73 electric pump was added by the dealer. I did my own on the 240.

The 240 and 260Z's came wired for electric fuel pump. If your car had the dealer installed electric pump they would have also added a couple of relays into the circuit that are documented in a separate tech bulletin that's somewhere on here. If your car never had the dealer installed pump the wires are there for an electric pump. I changed my 240 to electric pump and buil my own "tray" for the pump and then found the plug up in the console area that you jump across the 2 wires in the plug to activate the circuit, it is keyed to go live with the ignition switch in run. My current pump is pretty load when the car is off with the ignition switch in the run position and it kind of shifts down when it gets the loop pressurized so I wait for that sound shift before I crank. Probably 5 to 6 seconds max crank when cold with full choke and around freezing temps outside.

I have the 280ZX w/matchbox and have the same problem with the tach, mine seems to stall at about 3,400RPM but the engine runs great beyond there. Been that way for about 15 years so I pretty much just ignore it. I pretty much shift by sound anyway, more eye time on the road that way too.

I joined the "club Frontier" forum and for my intro I said "here's my oldest and newest Nissans" with this picture. The Z got almost all the attention.