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Racer X

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Everything posted by Racer X

  1. I saw that the other day. I love a nice goon.
  2. Wonder if there will be a flurry of bids right at the end?
  3. Those are the same photo. The top one has been reversed, and whoever did it also corrected the “240Z” on the poorly applied stripes. Look at all the details in each photo. The wipers. The scenery, i. e. The trees and gravel. mirror image of the bottom.
  4. Some guys down in Georgia. I think one of them may be a member here.
  5. I never use power took on spark plugs, iron heads or aluminium. Always remove them with a spark plug socket and ratchet, install by hand and torque with a torque wrench. It isn't a good idea to remove them when the engine is hot, the threads may call and pull them out. I have had to repair threads on both iron and aluminium heads over the years, always after some back has used and tools on them.
  6. Thanks for the comment. Been using it as long as I can remember. It is important to take care in applying it to not get any on the electrode or insulator, a little bit goes a long way. Also need to be careful to not over tighten the plugs. Proper use of a torque wrench is important. A quick web search results in much debate about it. I see the plug manufacturers say they use a plating that precludes the need for anti seize. But plating can come off.
  7. For what its worth, I torque mine to 13 ft lbs, and use anti seize on the threads.
  8. Like Steve said, are the plugs properly torqued? Also, it looks like the head gasket is leaking. Have you checked the head bolts to be sure they are properly torqued?
  9. I saw that yesterday evening. Interesting how it was previously bought by a dealer in California, and now a Washington dealer has it for sale. They are passing it around like a hooker at a frat party. Also interesting to note it is a no reserve auction. The current seller must be confident the selling price will be above the prior sale.
  10. The cam should have come with a card showing the lobe profiles, lobe centerlines, lift, duration and recommend lash settings. If you didn’t get it with the car, see if you can get the cam manufacturer and cam type, then contact the manufacturer for the details.
  11. The fact is these cars are easy to steal. Even today’s cars with chipped keys, and electronic gimcracks and gewgaws are easily stolen. If a thief wants something, there isn’t much keeping him from taking it short of an armed guard. Locks are for honest people. Me? If I leave my Z anywhere that there is a concern for its security, I remove the coil wire and rotor. Of course that doesn’t stop a n’er do well from dragging it onto a trailer or flat deck wrecker and hauling it away.
  12. Energy Suspension calls their Hyperflex bushings polyurethane. That tells me that Hyperflex is a brand name for polyurethane bushings. So it would appear they are one and the same as other polyurethane bushings, simply given a name to distinguish them from the everyday polyurethane equivalent.
  13. I think some of the Z vendors sell hardware ‘kits’. Not sure if it is still possible, but I sourced everything at my local Nissan parts guy at the dealer. I’ve also picked up some nice high grade stainless hardware at a local fastener supply house. This option is more work, because you need all the dimensions and such, and the better quality hardware will cost more. Be sure to get the correct washers for the studs that share an intake ear with and exhaust ear on the manifolds. If using a header, get a good one with the thick flange.
  14. I disagree that the glass needs to be installed to facilitate adjustment of the hatch. I also feel that the original strut being connected is causing fitment issues, and should not be connected until the hatch is fitted properly. Also, like I mentioned, it is a good idea to eliminate the new hinges as a culprit in the fitment.
  15. So, someone we know is selling his 510. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-510-6/ Looks very nice.
  16. I feel that adding a strut to the right side will not correct the problem. This is because the problem isn’t where the hatch is while open, the problem is where it is when closed (or in the closed position since you don’t have the latch hardware installed yet). You didn’t answer my question about the quarter panels. I also would be interested to know, is this hatch original to the car? Did you replace or repair any of the structure around the hatch opening ? How about the panel that the latch attaches to above the taillight support structure? If this is the original hatch, and the opening hasn’t been changed in any way, then the only change has been the replacement of the hinges. So, if that is the case, swap the new hinges out for the original ones, including any shims that may have been in the stack up (you did document what was there when you took it apart, right?). Then see if you still have a fitment issue.
  17. Just saw this and read through it. The first question that comes to mind is, why didn’t you check and adjust the panels, doors and hatch before you painted the car? Panel and door fitment should be done during the bodywork phase of a restoration. Now you have what looks like some serious mismatches. The hatch looks longer than the opening, hanging off the back of the car by a considerable margin. Did the quarter panels get replaced?
  18. Maybe she is hanging out with her sisters, Anode, and Cathode.
  19. Correct. ETI4K did, and I tried to multi quote you both but failed. Sorry, eh?
  20. Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/peugeot,1981,505,2.3l+l4+diesel,1227350,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896
  21. For what it is worth, when I put this setup on my racecar, no one produced a “kit” and spacers weren’t commercially available. I took measurements, made a drawing, and then had them made at a local machine shop.
  22. Knowing the job, having the correct tools, and planning are the keys to a quick, hot valve check and adjustment. As for running them a bit tighter to get that little extra bit of lift and duration, one mustn’t get them too tight, or the valves won’t close fully with the engine at full operating temperature.
  23. Silicone sealer has acetic acid in it (that vinegar smell when it is curing). Acetic acid is corrosive. I would caution against using it on bare metal as the resulting corrosion it causes would be just as bad as not using it. Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal. After installing the rivnut I go over it again to seal the area.
  24. I've said it before, I can get the valves checked and adjusted in 15 to 20 minutes. So I always do them hot. Sure, when putting a fresh engine together, they need to be set cold, and the clearances need to be set accordingly. I also set them a bit tighter than the manual calls for. For racing it is a way to "cheat" a bit more lift and duration out of the cam profile.
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