AZDatsun

This may be a stretch but my underhood light has never had the toggle switch it’s broken off at the base so I can’t turn the light on/off. The nut is still there though. Anyone ever replace just the switch? If so what did you use. Showing a picture of the part I am talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s got some pretty good wheel clearance put some boggers on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the ideas on that I need to lube it up for sure. I got the latch adjusted and the gaps are starting to take shape now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok figured out the stuck hood had to go under the car and use a screwdriver to get the latch off the catch it was stuck on. That was fun. I guess tomorrow I need to adjust the latch and the raised section. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so now I have another problem I can’t get my hood back open but I got the corners down using some very specifically applied body weight they are now resting on the rubber stoppers. There is just one area left that is raised up along the fenders so I will go back to that area with some wood and body weight once I figure out how to get my hood open. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The hood is not contacting the rubber posts on either side but I have adjusted the length of the hood latch spring (the male part) left all the bolts loose in the hood/torsion bars area and even removed the hood latch spring completely. This was the original hood but I am just now getting around to body work and getting panels lined up. The gap continues along the fender line also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It does seem like it flattened out I guess in a way to describe it. The previous owner had it stored with the windshield side on the ground and the end point of the hood resting against a wall maybe it got out of shape over time. Going to take it off my car and try to pursued it back Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t seem to get the sides low enough I have adjusted everything I can think of. Do I just need a new hood? The gap goes down the fenders also but is flat where the hood pin is.. I dunno Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used Sta-lube gl-4 85w-90 gear oil from Napa 11.49 a qt when I refilled mine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I saw a fix for the hwy speed folding issue but not sure where I saw that at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need to know what size these bracket mounts are. mine are gone since repairing firewall rust. I am going to have to fab some up and weld them on so I can screw the carpet plate on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure it has the reverse lockout port on the tail housing extension so you can easily access the striking rod pin with a punch. you may need to change the o rings that leak. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It wasn’t a swap I am not sure exactly what happened I was dumb for not testing it before I put it in the car. I think something just didn’t line up right for some reason. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dropped the trans again took off tail extension and put it back on and it shifts again. I dunno. This time I tried shifting before I put it in the car.. lesson learned Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the trans back in and it won’t go in/out of gear well there goes 2 hours of my life I won’t get back. Dropping it back out tonight to figure out what is wrong Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok no problem let me know when your back there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New pin arrived today in the mail it’s copper color unlike the one I took out that was silver but it fits perfect no play at all between the arm and the rod. I also was able to straighten out the rod pretty easily. Now I am just waiting on my o rings from courtesynissan to ship before I can put it together again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes rotella. I know a lot of people that run that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any chance the 280z has the engine bay light or the radiator overflow tank or steering column clamshell? I need any of those. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rotol T4 15w-40 wish that was tested Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything looks good the rod is a little bent from all my hammering but nothing I can’t straighten. The little arm where the bolt goes through does have a little damage from the drill but it’s not on the rod side so I don’t think it will affect use. I have another bolt arriving Tuesday so I will know then. The slot on the rod where the bolt locks into is also fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it’s not my proudest moment but it’s out took a 90 degree drill and lots of bits Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t tried the double nut idea yet. I am in AZ and dealing with a 120 degree garage so I only work for a little bit in the morning. Do you think once I get it out if replacing it with a regular bolt would be ok? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This on on the same list with removing spindle pins as a headache.. you would think there would be a better design.. of course the fsm just says remove striking arm bolt.. I am surprised it doesn’t show a finger just pushing it out. I am giving in and going to try and take it somewhere. At least on the later 5speeds you have a way to get to it via the reverse lockout hole in the case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tried the steel bar method and hitting it with a 5# hammer still not budging going to try the freeze method next after I pick up some dust off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk