Ed

It's the oil pick-up that gets in the way. That is the arm that reaches down into the bottom of the oil pan to pick-up the oil. All gaskets dry up after 30 or so years, It will also depend on the gasket material (cork, rubber, paper etc..). Yes, it is possible for the pan to be warped already with a combination of an old gasket. Becareful when you do pull the pan, like beandip mentioned you do not want to disturb any sludge or crud inside the engine. This stuff acts like little pieces of plastic and will clog oil passages, sieze pumps, burn bearings etc.. Good luck.

Hey Brian, Installation of the gasket is a piece of cake, as long as the motor is out of the car. If the motor is still in the car it is impossible to remove the pan. You can however unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine some to get more clearance. Once you get the new gasket in place finger tighten all the bolts then torque from the center out, first on side then the other. I think the proper torque is about 5-8 lbs. You should re-torque them after about 500 miles. Your dirty oil could be several things depending on the condition of the engine.

Here is an idea. Buy this poor soul off of E-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7912855949 I bet there is quite a few parts you could use. FWIW this car has been on e-bay for a while it keeps getting relisted and the price has dropped drastically. Good luck Ed

Eric, I found those guys at a "Good Guys" car show in Del Mar, CA. Out of all the other bumper / chrome guys up there they where the only one's that knew what a Datsun 240z was. Hope it all works out for you, let us know. Ed

Here is a Bush / Kerry funny, enjoy :classic: http://69.93.11.34/mirror.html

Eric, call "THE BUMPER SHOP, INC." They are located on 828 E. Florence Ave. Los Angeles, Ca (323) 585-3865 or 2921. These guys hooked me up when I lived down in San Diego. They drove a freshly chromed bumper out to my house (3 hour drive) and exchanged it for my old beat-up bumper on the spot.

I used the plastic sheet stuff found at Home Depot. I can't remember what thickness but the thicker the better. I found it around the paint / tarp section. I also used "rope window caulk" to stick it to the door.

I'll be there! Hope to run into you guys, look for the guy wearing a green Jets cap.

A guy like that has an ego problem. I bet he has a mullet.

I finally found a 1/4 NPT tap at Ace Hardware (Home Depot just scratched their heads). The plug I got at a performance auto parts store. Stainless steel allen head NPT plug for $2.11.

Is this what your talking about; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=13887&highlight=r200

I got those fittings from the Nissan dealer a couple of years back. Believe it or not they had them in stock! Maybe they use the same fittings on newer model cars? I went through the opposite of what your going through. I was on the search for a plug for that fitting. Never found any in that pitch. I went to about ten different part's stores, hardware stores, plumbing shops, heating and cooling etc... I ended up getting a 1/4 npt pipe tap and retapping the hole. Like you said the pitch is off ever so slightly like one or two threads per inch. Good luck.

Interesting to know. I've had a couple of guys over to look at my car for a paint job. I've never bothered asking them how long it would take.

My first guess would be that someone has lowered the rear of the car by heating the springs. Now the spring has sagged and when you make a right turn the suspension compresses and with the weight of the driver either the tire rubs the wheel well or some other part of the drive train is touching. (just a guess) Have someone sit in the back of the car, left side. Look underneath and see if something is close to rubbing against something. If you can't find anything then jack the car up and remove the road wheel. Inspect all your suspension components to make sure that everything is nice and tight. A worn out bushing would most likely be the culprit. Those 30 year old rubber bushings don't last forever. Good luck.

Ermm, If I don't say it i'm sure someone else will. Are you going to take the part needing blasting behind the woodshed, and uh, "blast it"? LOL :tapemouth j/k:classic:

That's good to hear. :classic:

No, I think he's burning some wet paper under his car, thus creating all that white smoke.

On my first engine I noticed that the timing chain had little "rollers". These rollers are what engage with the sprocket teeth. Some of these rollers were broken on my chain. I would think that if enough of these rollers were to break you could have some terminal results.

Good luck on your bidding Stephen. She is nice.:classic:

My parts car looks like this. Every nut and bolt is rusted. There isn't a piece of sheetmetal that wouldn't need patching or replacing. It took me twenty minutes to get one horn off and I broke a bolt. The amount of work that this fairlady needs and what she would be worth in the end just doesn't justify it. IMO Maybe find a donor 2+2 and convert it into a fairlady using whatever you can from this poor lost soul.

Ermm, I might be wrong here but your "donor" car won't have the correct mustache bar. If I remember correctly it doesn't even have a mustache bar. Also unless you are planning for some serious HP the R-200 will be overkill. IMO stick with the R-180 you have. But by all means pull the R-200 and stash if for future projects.

Originally posted by Bambikiller240 "Some things are meant to die. This looks like one of them." You got that right. More holes than swiss cheese. :dead: :dead:

Too bad it also has holes in the doors.