Ed

Funny thing, were on opposite sides of the world and doing the same thing. I'm also painting my fuel / brake lines. The little brackets I had replated.

Jeff, You are correct. Probably a faulty hose. The only way to know for sure is to remove the interior trim panel and inspect the hoses. The panel is the big plastic piece on your right side if you look in from the hatch area. To remove the rivets without breaking them take a small nail or a punch and push the center of the rivet through. Unfortunately some of these center posts will end up lost. Then using a flat screw driver you can remove the rivet. The panel comes out with a little gentle persuasion. Good luck Oh yea, don't smoke :classic:

Welcome to the club! It sounds like your valve stem seals are shot. What happens is while the car is sitting there doing nothing oil seeps down the valves stem into the combustion chamber. When you start it up the white smoke is the oil burning up. It won't be as noticable if you drive the car every day. But let it sit for a couple of days and you will get the smoke. To change your seals isn't really that hard or expensive if you know how to do it yourself. I would suggest you get a shop manual and read up on what is involved. Then you can decide if you want to tackle this job yourself or pay someone else. Good luck.

What do you guys use to clean, detail and preserve the black rubber trim on your bumpers?

Must have been the Geico squirrel.

Your best bet is to go back to midas or another muffler shop and to have them replace your stock exhaust with the same diameter pipe and a quality muffler. Get the aluminized steel it will last a lot longer.

That Z has definately had a lot of work done to it. What kind of engine does it have? Are you going to fix her up yourself? The side windows and the windshield should be easy to come by, don't know about the back. Since she has been open to the elements you need to pull up the floor matts and the carpet and inspect the floor boards. The Z's worst enemy is rust and sitting like that would make her a likely candidate. Try and get underneath also inspect the frame rails for rust. Inspect and poke with a screwdriver BEFORE you buy. She might look to be in decent shape from the outside but you could have a rotten apple underneath. Good Luck.

When I did mine. It all went together pretty smooth. After I torqed it to spec it still moved freely. Maybe one of your bearings isn't seated all the way.

What size rims do you have?

I'm not sure exactly what they are called but they are the metal sleeve's that retain the brake line to the body and the hub. They slide over a bracket then the brake line goes through it and then you secure it with a "U" shaped clip. I need two of them. Can someone help a Z brother out? Attached is a picture of what I need.

Guus, If your trying to upload a picture make sure it's not too big.

Jason, I tried getting one from the dealer there in San Diego a while back. They told me I would have to buy the cables as well since it was part of the assembly. Try "All Z Auto Wrecking" they specialize in Z's; 793 B&C Energy Way Chula Vista, CA 91911 (619) 421-5881 / 421-0711. Additionally, I would think that if you broke yours something is wrong. Lube your cables and make sure the links on the carbs are moving freely.

On my 73 I used the factory mounts. The sway bar came from a 74 260. No problems.

The headlight retaining rings are indeed stainless. I polished one up and it looks new. They are not pure stainless, thats why the magnet will stick to them. FYI.

At the body shop where my car is getting painted they have this old Chevy Chevelle SS. The owner had it rebuilt and it looks GREAT! They didn't miss a detail on this car even the tires are stock. There is only one problem with it. The place that did the restoration painted the undercarrage the same as the body. And the frame is gloss black. Both of which came from the factory semi-gloss. So now it's at this body shop getting the undercarrage re-painted. I guess it's nice to have money. If anyone is interested I can try and get some more pictures.

On mine the bolt is welded to the bumper guard. It has a round head and appears to be factory. On the other hand the bolt is about 65 mm long and is a 10 X 1.25.

The good news is you have a year to look. They pop up once in a while on this site. Surfing this site you will learn a lot about the Z. Look through the gallery and you can drool like the rest of us. Save your penny's cause here's the bad news.... Plan to spend close to 5,000 for something decent. Anything less and Mom won't be happy. Welcome by the way.

The intake manifold and the balance tube is from a 73. The carbs you have aren't original, looks like they came from a 71 or 72. That aircleaner looks homemade. If you look through the gallery you will see what the air cleaner box looks like. You should be able to use a aircleaner box from 70-72. They show up on e-bay every now and again.

That's a really good looking Z! Good luck selling it. Have you posted it on e-bay yet?

16 volts? Seems a little high. Isn't 14 about average? When you melted the unit was it running for a while?

I'm building a L28 to put in my 73. This is what I've got. Block - F54 Pistons - Flattop Head - N42 shaved .040". 3 angle valve job, match ported to the intake. Headers - 6-1 with 2.5" all the way back to a flowmaster. Carbs - Dual SU's with modified needles Ignition - stock electronic from a 81ZX. Maybe upgrading to a MSD 6a? Cam - undecided. I haven't figured out my combustion chamber cc's yet to get an accurate compression ratio. Can some of you guys post what you have?

I'm with the Department of Homeland Security (used to be Department of Justice). Federal law enforcement. I'm here to help keep them terrorists out.