Ed

By the window crank? What's the purpose? Maybe to cover speaker holes?

Does anyone know where these would go? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-NOS-Amco-Contoured-Scuff-Plates_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ8013832506QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

If you don't have a "cherry picker" or "engine hoist" check your local yellow pages under "tool rental" I rented one for $25.00. Buy an engine stand for $40.00 and rebuild that engine with ease. Like previously mentioned you can do it with the block still in the car but the crank is very heavy. Heavier than a V-8. And to remove the oil pan you pretty much have to raise the engine off the motor mounts. So in the long run you will be much happier if you pulled the block.

I've never seen any replacements for sale, atleast not new. I have seen them on Ebay a couple of times. A parts car might be your only alternative. Visit your local junk yard.

I did the PVC tube extension modification also. Real easy to do. Haven't tested it yet since my car hasn't gotten wet since I finished the restoration.

If it's going to sit in your garage all winter I'd vote for a valve seal change. And about the hesitation. Were you just watching the tach and the needle jumped or did you listen to the engine?

Most Automatic Transmission Fluid is 20wt oil. And several people use it in the carbs. I do and have no problems. The fill line is on the shaft. Don't worry if you over fill. It will get sucked into the engine and burn off.

Or you can try bonzai motorsports

Congratulations and welcome to the world of Z addicts.

I too thought it looked like a decent car until I got to the engine bay. :sick: OMG, WTF???

Nice. Now i need to go change.

Like you said, it takes practice, a lot of practice. Also you want to make sure the metals your welding are clean, any impurities (rust, grease, paint) will affect your welding.

Don't paint it. It looks good just like that. Gives it a little contrast.

I remember reading about this in an earlier post. Couldn't find the exact one. This one has the part # and a picture. If I remember correctly they are NLA. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9936&highlight=steering+rack+reservoir

Does your car still have the original "flat top" carbs?

O.K. I stole the picture from MSA: I really like it. The 15's would probably look good too but the 17's would say "I'm Badd arse!!". Santa, I've been real good .

You bet. Here is their web site. No pictures of the wheel though. I already checked. zcarparts Edit: My bad here they are X

I just got my Holiday 2005 mini catalog from MSA and I noticed they have "Flashback Slotted Alulminum Wheels" on page 14. They come in a 15 X 7 and a 17 X 7. IMO they look bad arse! I wanted to know what you guys thought of them. yes or no???

Get a pre-bent hose from a parts car. It goes from the clutch M/C down the the passenger side frame rail. Or get some brake lines from your local NAPA auto parts store and bend it yourself. Then from there use the S/S braided hose.

The R-180 diff is more than enough for your current set-up. Pull it and do a rebuild. Bearings, seals and new oil. While your down there replace the diff mount.

Thanks for the compliments guys. I did my homework on this one. Here is another picture that shows a little more detail. Needless to say I'm extreamly pleased with the results.

The spray on bedliner can get pretty thick, it will prevent you from ever replacing the drain plugs. You also have to worry about the fuel/brake line brackets, fuel pump bracket, E'brake, suspension, etc... I can guarantee that if you take it somewhere the person doing it won't give a crap if he sprays over that little screw hole that is used to support your brake line. They will tell you that if you don't want any hole sprayed shut you should put a piece of tape over it. Bla, bla, bla. All this discouraged me from taking it somewhere. First I gave her belly the POR treatment. I topcoated the wheel arch areas and the trans tunnel. Then I took some tape and taped off the areas that I didn't want covered with bedliner. The list is long but if you've come this far then you know what needs to be protected and what needs to remain clear. Then I went over to Autozone and bought Herculiner it's a roll on bed liner. Same product as the spray on. But by rolling and using a brush I could apply it where it needed to be. No mess, no overspray, no plugged holes. I applied an extra thick coat (1/8") in the wheel wells and trans tunnel. Everywhere else got a single application. I went through 1 gallon and 1 qt. Oh yea, buy some corks from your local hardware store to plug the drain holes. Wrap a piece of tape around it then plug the hole.

It will still require you to fabricate a bracket to properly support the actuator, and run the wires to the control module. I did this a while back to mine and it was a bit of work. Definately not a weekend project. Oh, and I went with Autoloc.

Here you go. Four days and counting. E-bay