Reptoid Overlords

It is a multimeter with scale choices for ohms. Albeit a cheap one. I was using the 1980 book, with the feeler gauge method for setting 900rpm(federal model). A fluke tester has arrived, however a distributor rebuild on a 3SGTE turbo swapped Camry all-trac came along with it. God help us. Also, another set of hands to hold the leads as I turn the TVS might produce better results. What's happening is that as soon as I reach zero resistance, I let go of the TVS body and the readings go all wonky. Perhaps you are right, I'm getting to far into fine details, and a good tester, a beer and a fresh start might be all I need.

its too late to hide the transformation from garage to shop. Looks like the Camry sleeps outside.

1980 280ZX N/A. Stock except EGR delete. When connecting my ohmmeter to the TVS following the procedure set forth in the EFI bible, it is producing wildly fluctuating numbers when rotating the TVS clockwise to indicate the circuit is closed. Also, it is producing wildly fluctuating numbers when rotating it counterclockwise. I have 19hg vacuum at the booster, and 28psi fuel pressure at idle(engine at normal operating temp). Edit: ignition timing set to 12degrees BTDC My friend is coming by later with another ohmmeter. I will run the test again, but if I get the same results, would it suffice to say that the contacts inside are worn/misaligned? It is the TVS type that is rivited together. It is unmolested, but not original to this car. Its from my '82 parts car. The original TVS that was in the car was causing severe rpm drop at idle. It too has never been taken apart. The symptom that caused me to check it is a very slight stutter when the accelerator pedal is applied very lightly. Only in one position, and operates smoothly in all other positions. Edit #2: The problem is intermittent. It may very well be that I'm being a bit ocd about the stutter. Its hardly noticeable to me, and unnoticeable to others who have driven it. The ohmmeter numbers are indeed throwing me for a loop. Apologies for the lengthy post, just wanted to try to cover all the bases I could think of. And thanks in advance for advice.

The nicoclub FSM says its undated part 1 and 2 for the 240, then moves on to '72. I'm curious if the undated version is for the '71. I wouldn't be able to tell..I'm working with ZX's at this pont.

www.nicoclub.com

Thanks..I lack the bodywork experience one would need to do this job, but I just dove in with a couple of Kirin Ichiban beers and am learning as I go. I appreciate the advice.

Making some progress.

When I bought my car last year, the previous owner somehow managed to dent the rear passenger side by the side indicator light. Been bothering me all this time. So I finally drilled holes and put the slide hammer on it. Now its Bondo time. Its at one build up stage. Next to find some Nissan 307 Pacific Blue Metallic.

How did the cam look?,if they were running the valves too tight would it produce some of the results that you noted?

Nice clean engine bay. Looks like a new AFM, and I'm not sure if that year came equipped with EGR and emissions equipment, but if so, it all appears to have been deleted and cleaned up nicely.

Excellent, thanks. I will verify the speedo screw as 7too said, and let the chips fall where they may. I appreciate all of the good input.

I guess it should be noted that the reason I'm considering fixing something that isn't broke is that I was planning to pull the engine/trans out of the running '80 ZX just to clean up the engine bay, replace mounts, and paint. Before I got it, the PO ran it with a leaky oil pan gasket/valve cover gasket and a leaky power steering pump.

I am running the stock R180 differential. If I swap transmissions, and discover that the donor has an R200 would you suggest using it in place of the 180? The '80 it would be going in has a bone stock engine. This is all just preliminary planning. I might just pull all of it out, and store it until something actually wears out to the point of needing to be replaced. Thanks for the input.

Wonderful. Thank you. The build date on the '80 is 11/79. I appreciate the reply.

I have an 82'ZX NA parts car with a Nissan transmission that I am considering putting in my '80 ZX NA car. The transmission in the '80 shifts fine, but will need a clutch soon. I'm pulling the engine/trans out of the parts car anyway. My questions are: Should the '82 trans mount directly into the '80 car without modifications? Is there a different gear ratio between '80 and '82? I remember when the parts car was running its transmission shifted tighter and smoother than the one I have in the running car. I haven't checked, but unless the PO put a T5 in it, its a Nissan transmission.

The one pictured is powered by a $8,000.00 battery pack. The LP machine needs some triple Mikuni's

That one is only 2 years old with barely 1200 hrs on it, and its pretty bad. The other one we have was built in 1993 with 11k hours and works every time. Original motor and bushings.

. Our Nissan forklift at work got it's roof cargo capacity tested with a laundry center. It was stacked on top of another appliance, and fell on the roof when lifting the one underneath.

Adjusted valve lash, checked timing, vacuum test and checked compression before winter hibernation. Such a nice looking part of the engine, and strangely rewarding to work with.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/d/1972-datsun-240z/6331164936.html Don't think I've ever seen those wheel covers. Unless they are aftermarket rims..

Probably a shot in the dark, but check the connections at your ignition control module. Make sure they are tight and clean.

Thanks. I can put 3 cars. (2 ZX'S and a 3rd gen Camry). I've been toying with the idea of getting one of those Chinese lifts for $2k, but I'm not sure if I trust them. A local guy that runs a shop has one, and he says he hasn't had any trouble with it. He let me do the exhaust on the blue car on it. For now I'll be pulling the engine/transmission out of the red one. Its a bit of a basket case besides the drivetrain.

My new house comes with a glorious garage. Now I have space to really drive the Mrs. crazy.

Should there be a silver capacitor looking device bolted to one of the holes in the back of the alternator?

A search from Bellingham to Olympia craigslist will yield at least 3 good for the price cars. Yours being one of them. Yesterday I saw an early rhd Fairlady with a cargo carrier on top of a home made ski rack, and a rear window full of Sasquatch/PNW stickers.