7tooZ

I am looking for a Early Z Map Light. The one in the radio console. Or just the switch out of one, if you have a broken house sitting around.

I was recently involved in a conversation with an owner who said he is the original owner of a New 78 280Z convertible which he purchase from a Seattle dealer as a new car. have any of you heard of approximately 12-13 cars contracted by Nissan to be converted somewhere is Texas? Or otherwise.

Good advise thanks. FYI i have been using the XR3000 for quite awhile 10+ yrs without the resister. The process of illumination lead me to maybe the Coil so Ill replace it and make no other changes and seen if it shows up again. The 1.5 ohm will ne here Saturday,

40111 is the epoxy 1.5 ohm. Thanks I order it to.

I have a PerTronix 40611 arriving today. Drove the car yesterday on two 10 mile trips with no issues. Are you suggesting the 1.5 ohm would be preferred over 3 ohm?

@SteveJthank you good info. Enjoy the 4th.

No

Think pickup a new one just to be sure. I see Fireball must not be producing them any more. Any suggestions?

@Zed HeadYep I knew that. But thanks.

@SteveJ thanks for your reply. Yesterday I was a returning home, a 30 mile drive at freeway speeds 70-75. Stopped for gas, fill-up tank, started up and headed the 2 mi home. About 3 blks from home it simply died. Turned over but wouldnt start. By the time i went back to get it (couple hours +/-) it started and ran rough (like the plugs were fouled) for 10-15 sec and then was fine. Your rely kind of fit my thoughts of "heat related". That coil could be 15+ years old.

@SteveJ thanks for your reply. Yesterday I was a returning home a 30 mile drive at freeway speeds 70-75. Stopped for gas, fillup tank, started up and headed the 2 mi home. About 3 blks from home it simply died. Turned over but wouldnt start. By the time i went bank to get it couple hours +/- started and ran rough (like the plugs were fouled) for 10-15 sec and then was fine. Your rely kind of fit my thoughts of "heat related". That coil could be 15

What are the symptoms of a Bad coil? I am running a Fireball PS30 along with a Crane XR3000 and Crane points replacement.

I have agree with @dutchzcarguy some. I recently was helping a local owner he drove my car then said wish mine ran this well. I drove his it just seem sluggish. I had him do a valve adjustment and he discovered that he had low compression on two cylinders. So he pulled the head and found the head had a crack and bent valves. They were not closing all the way. So if you haven’t, test compression, adjust the valves, test compression again if needed, check distributor ignition system, check timing, check for plugged filter, check for vacuum leaks, check fuel pressure, unhook all of the throttle linkage. Make sure is opening al the way. No binding or stops. Once you are at this point I would mail those carbs to Ztherapy. I know it frustrating, but you will find the problem. Them you will love that car.

Sent you a PM on a different subject. Don

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View Advert New MOMO steering wheel “SOLD” Recently I have been experimenting with different style steering wheels This I’d a MOMO Prototipo which I purchased a couple months ago. As much as I like this one I didn’t think it fit the current version of my Z. I have moved on to Wood Nardi wheel. This has been mounted and removed a couple of time. Leather wrap is in new condition. Advertiser 7tooZ Date 04/25/2021 Price $175.00 Category Parts for Sale

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Steve I used Queen City plating in Mukilteo Wa in 2016. We are a shop that do work for customers showing a pebble Beach. I doubt you could get back before August 15. I can dig up my invoice if you are interested. don

This sounds like an issue I experienced last summer. It was a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft on my rear carb. The shaft seal was compromised (leaking). At the standard 2.5 turns down and a hot engine it wouldn’t idle and back fired when off the throttle at speed. Seemed to run better at 2500 rpm and above. my solution was to send my carbs them back to ZT after 20 years who replaced the shaft bearings, throttle shafts and seals. They replaced and adjusted the floats. Came back in a week and All I had to do was bolt them on. Best $$$ I have spent since buying them in 2001.

I am currently using a wide ratio along with a 2005 STI 3.90 diff. I think it is a good combination around town and on the freeway. I like it better than the close ratio I also have and ran for a about a year.

@Jughead Makes me wonder if you could cover your with some strong tape to seal it and see if the helps?

In my case my car was running fine at higher RPM (3000+) but would backfire (POP) on compression, That is because it was leaning out off throttle. At idle my car reacted just as yours did when starting fluid was sprayed near the rear carb butter fly shaft. If i plugged the hole (pressed my finger over it) for the shaft the idle smoothed out immediately. Once I remove the carb i could see that the silver cap was missing. Bruce at Z therapy told me that I probably had a backfire that blew out the seal. So off to Ztheray they went. Came back beautiful, adjusted and all I did was bolt them on. Problem solved. No backfires and no lean out at low RPM. Would you like a photo of where the shaft cover is. I am not sure is the OEM carbs have the cap. Ztherapy opens up where the shaft sits so they can install roller bearings and seals. Stock carbs have brass (?) bushings.

My theory is “ why would I risk the car or injury” over the price of a set of tires?

I have a crane coil that I purchased at the same time. Is there any indication of what yours is? Doesn’t look stock so I would think you should be good to use it again. This system sEnds an improved spark so a good set of plug wires is always good. if you had the oil pump off make sure you get it back to 11:20 at TDC. With the rotor on #1 you can move the sensor until the red light comes on. If you have moved it try it first. let me know if you want photos. don

@TrnelsonTom I have ran this system on my cars for years. I use the stock cap and rotor. once you get it set you avoid the continual point wear and needed adjustment. What issues are you having?