7tooZ

So I experienced this same problem recently. On my 240 motor there were thirteen on the cover and seven on the water pump plus the pan. The bolts that cause you grief are usually the ones around the water pump the broke off. Rust has filled the gap. After I reverified I had all of the bolts out I used a rubber mallet and PB Baster until I created a gap to get a gasket scraper worked behind the cover to help put pressure on it while tapping on the sides with the mallet. Everytime I started to give up I sprayed more Blaster in and took a long break. Eventually it will start to move and that is when you won the battle. PB Blaster love help from the heat if you can. Just keep at it slow and steady. (I have no patients so avoiding a bigger hammer or more pressure was hard for me to avoid. )

Got your PM and sent you a reply. Welcome aboard lots of good info already here and great people to help problem solve.

That's how I do it. forth gear and a block in front of the wheel. Hand brake if it works

Yep, just did a valve job and during the process ended up with two sets Don't plan on needing it any time soon. It will end up in the storage shed never to be found when needed. Let me know where to send it

I would start TDC. Remove the fan and belt drive . I removed the radiator to give good access to the front of the engine. I used a puller to get the harmonic balancer off and the oil pump drive gear off the crank. Don’t forget the two 10mm bolts. Consider replacing the timing chain gear and tensioner and water pump. You may be able the loosen the pan bolts enough to get the front cover off. I had to lower my sway bar to get th oil pump bolts out. I decided to remove the pan and check the bottom end. I center drilled the bolts then tapped new threads. I bought a stainless bolt set. You have to rotate the engine to get the pan out. new front seal is needed. Ps I have a front cover set I don’t need happy to send it to you. Im sure I messed something

Do you remember the brand?

@Jaymanbikes looks like you have an epoxy floor in the garage. I am trying to decide what to put on mine. Which brand did you ? Would you recommend it? How is the durability?

My install purchase a full system which went together well with a few exception. On cars with SUs there is not enough space to used the stock heat shield so custom spring brackets were required. Additionally the exhaust tube for number six cylinder protruded to approximately 3/4 inch below the soft rubber tube on the bottom of the rear SU. I was uncomfortable with a 450+ degrees that close and no room for a heat shield. The next header solved the close contact to the SU but made contact with the torsion rod bracket and would require custom fabrication. Up until now I have used a ceramic coated stock manifold and down pipe with 2.25 exhaust a glass pack resonator an a magnaflow muffler. So I decided to experiment with Sean’s stainless system and the changes I mentioned above. So far so good. Nice sound under throttle but a little loud at WOT. Nice low tone at 70 mph at 2500-2700 rpm. I like the fact that the stainless system uses V clamps on the resonator making it east to remove the system for other work. Tucks up tight except where the pipe is next to the diff. Looks great from the back.

Changed my exhaust system again. Abandoned the Zstory stainless headers and went back to the stock exhaust manifold (ceramic coated) and installed a new dowm tube a two into one 2.5 inch pipe. Added a custom bend pipe to meet up to the Zstory resonator. Connected everything with stainless V clamps. I’ll run it as is for a while and then remove the new pipe and have it ceramic coated. Next up is the transmission whine I get in 1st 2nd and 3rd. Probably a propessional rebuild.

Pass it on when you can.

Well not exactly a paper weight. There are members of the forum that have repaired some. Can you pull on the tip while running it? Also I cant tell which model it is. Sum have raising lead and lowering lead. Try switching the power lead and gently help the antenna out? PS di you buy it on ebay? Did you pay more than $50?

I tend to agreed with terrapin and S30 regarding the format. I do get annoyed by the “oh I have or had one just like this” folks. It would be interesting to know how many of these deals fail to close and why.

Big controversy over this auction. High bid is now only $21K. Basically the rotisserie photos on the site was not this car. BAT cancelled the three highest bids. still looks like a great car and maybe a steal due to the “Bad Carma”.

Talks us through what throw out bear and collar you used? Did you check how the fork moved the collar before install the trans?

@NA&CH send me your address I’ll mail you a Ztlherapy CD.

Just checked the 280 2+2 has a different part number and shows as unavailable. The 240 rear hatch stainless is still available $199 from Nissan dealer (90951-E4100) PS I have a set I took off my 71 I would pass on to someone who wants is.

A couple years ago I purchased both the front and rear stainless inserts from my local Nissan dealer. Do you have the part number or is the hatch identical to the coupe hatch?

Some older SUs have a fast idle issue when the butterfly shaft bearings are worn and allow air to enter.

Nope but I would own it if I could. I was blown out of the bidding before placing a bid. I love white cars just bought the wife a white XC60. Had an off white 2000 roadster that someone borrowed and didn’t return. Still hope it will show up some day. Ps wouldn’t mine owning that bright colored one who own?

Can you post some photos of your fuel/carb system. It is amazing what people here can see with pictures

So what I liked about the “APP” was it was easy, quick and went straight to what I wanted to see “unread posts” and I used it approximately 80% of the time I spent on the site from my iPad or iphone. More detailed work I did on my HP laptop. Today from all of my devises I use a password storage site called “LastPass” that launches the Webpage with my user name and password and requires a thumb print on the iPad and the iPhone. No need to waste your time or money just for me. Keep up good work ps just checked in on the white 72 on BAT: $40K and 7 days to go. Wahoooooo

Mike as you know I had the same issue until you pointed me to Tapatalk. Well I find it hard to get used to. I have reverted to going directly to the webpage. That makes all three of my devices look the same. I suppose I should devote some time to Tapatalk.

@dat240z71 What is the point of that story? Sounds like you are not interested and told him! Did I miss something?

I maybe interest if he is not

Sorry ERR 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoi