7tooZ

My 2/71 HLS30 23471 IZCC #7130 had: Vertical defrost side vents not hatch vents OHC Valve cover Fuel door latch/knob missing air cleaner and radio when I acquired it seat belts different from earlier cars interior PS rear panel for smaller overflow tank early seats

What @grannyknot said. I have done 5 of these in the last three years and we have tried many things, WD40, Vaseline etc but it has always taken two to get it accomplished. Get it warm soft and slick. A 90 degree day helps. Dont give up

@Mark Maras we have been trying convince him of this since day one. He doesn’t get it. My near 20 yr old Z therapy carb have always been the same. In the cool NW the choke is require to keep it from dying until the engine starts to warm. But good to remind him again.. Having heard the antics of his mechanic since day one makes me wonder if those carb can ever get back to the beginning. Having no idea what he pays for shop time I wonder if he won’t be better just spending the funds for a new rebuilt set. I feel for his frustration but wonder if it self imposed.? Oh yea that’s what you said! Don

@RIP260Z thanks for the info. My aftermarket one is 16MM. seems I will have to keep looking or accept a different look.

I used brass plugs and screwed them in.

Ian I am interested in how you reproduced the ribbed rubber piece. I would like to find one to fit to my after market version footrest.

Sorry Kats I just noticed this comment and I apologize for not being clear. As I mentioned before I purchased an after market version of the foot rest a number of years ago thinking my wife would appreciate it. As you can see from the photos it mounts differently than the original. I was particularly interested in your carpet. Appears the solution is to have a carpet mat made. also I am interested in knowing how you reproduced the ribbed rubber cover.

I see you got specific information on the Morton Wheels. However I have a set of these BRE branded wheels on my 240. I purchased them directly from BRE2.com with BRE caps. I have the 15X7 with 205/60R Michlin tires. BRE calls these Libre and VTO calls them Retro 4. PS you get them in a 14" and VTO

@KatZ I am curious about your floor mat. Is it a Custom Version? I have an aftermarket version that is very similar to the photos here except is chrome not black It is new and still in the original box.

Thought I would weigh in here. Here is my stock looking radio. It was converted to a FMR-2 Aurora. I have made this conversion on this radio and a 62 Corvette Wonder Bar. no one has discover any change yet. AmFm seek still work including the tuning light. However it also has a 40W 4 channel output. Plus an AUX input that plugs into my XR iPhone hidden in the center console. Blue is a option also if want to drive and visit, but not for me. See more info at Joesclassiccarradio.com Just another way to enjoy a classic driver. “Drive a Classic”

In 2016 I spent $13k on an exterior paint. Minor rust repair. Resprayed the original Color. I did the glass and chrome removal, they welded the holes left from the side molding removal, and after market mirror holes. They tested old paint depth and checked any questionable areas. Shop is Euroteckbodyworks.com a noted Porsche shop. I replaced the glass, bumpers, mirror and badges. A full strip and repair here would run $30 - 50K based on the amount of rust repair. A mechanic shop on the east side of the Seattle metro area is $130 -160 hr shop time. I am aware of at least four stock and custom restorations in the area of $125k, $135, $160 and $??? a Gold winner at ZCON.

So most of us in states that don’t require the smog equipment to be intact have removed the them. If you do box them up and save them. Doesn’t your air cleaner bolt to the carbs? looks like you are working on a 72 with the stock motor. I don’t recognize the brand header you have but I am sure someone here has already made this change. What are you planning for the rest of the exhaust system? plus we love photos of cars here and their stories Welcome aboard Don

@Zed Head not really bad photo the alignment Mark is almost on the zero mark but the timing light says 7degree. Hope to spend some time at the dyno this spring. Last year I was running lean and we adjusted the carbs by feel. Time to do it again. Madkaw rebuilt my e31 head with bigger exhaust valves.

A sip almost always helps. What’s your preference?

‘No, moving the module I s the last thing i did. As I understand you located TDC, you have a pointer or created one. Mark your balancer, it is on the PS of the motor near the top of the balancer. Set your oil pump drive spindle to the 11.20 position. Instal the rotor. It should point to the number one plug wire. If not rotate the distributor until it does. I use a sharpie to Mark the outside of the distributor so you can see where it is without the cap. Now you are a TDC with the rotor and distributor set the number one on compression. Turn on your key and slide the module along the mount until the light on the box comes on. Now you should be a zero degrees advance. Install the cap and install the wires following the firing order. If it doesn’t start rotate the distributors clock wise. @Zed Head I did not have time to reread the full post. I am I missing something Module

now it looks like ended at 310K

just tried to sign on and got notice site is down

Same here Did the site get over run?

I believe it indicates the spark sent to the plug. Same as when the timing light is get the signal. My limited knowledge make me think that if the rotor is pointed at at number one wire and all of your distributor marks at zero and motor at TDC (or close) your timing light should be indicating zero degree. Then adjust distributor to to 7 BTDC or what your manual states. I then adjust timing in small increments based on how feels when driving a hot motor. Mine 240 is at 7 initial and my vacuum advance is working with full advance.

So you fixed the venting issue by reversing the direction. The vent on the rear with the 180 turn in the hose does cause the tank to not fill all of the way if blocked. I had that issue recently when the hose collapsed. Just run a straight hose up to your tank next to the fill tube. I would be curious how your tank turns out and what it cost you. If you don’t mind.

@zdude1967 I have the crane system on my car. It gives you a lot of timing adjustment in the mount inside of the distributor. Now that you have TDC you should be able to point the rotor at number 1 cable then rotate the module on the bracket until the red light come on. That get you very close to Zero degrees. Now that you have it running you be close and that should open up your ability to use your light to set timing where you want it. couple of pictures of mine.

Most us have experienced that already and I more than once. The day you decide to repair rust is when it really get ugly. Enjoy that car and the process.

Hope to catchup with you at a ZCCW meeting or our Whidbey Island Cruise

I have installed several MSA systems on stock motors. It needs a resonator. My best recommendation is to go to a 2.25 or 2.5 pipe with a resonator and a magnaflow flow through muffler. the Zstory system I have is a bit aggressive on WOT above 4500 RPM. very mellow at cruising speeds in 2500 to 3700 RPM. I have been using ceramic coated manifold and parts for over 20years. Currently I have a stock manifold that is ceramic coated matched to a stock down tube converted to to 2.5 in pipe ceramic coated mated to the Zstory exhaust system with the resonator and a JDM muffler. Pretty happy with it. I abandoned the Zstory street header because of the proximity to the rear SU Carb. the race header interfered with the frame on my car. I think you will find that a ceramic coated header is quieter in the engine bay and should flow better and less heat. hope this helps PS I lone Vclamps

@ea6driver bob I have fair large supply of some after market clamps that similar to the original clamps. I cam mail you a few if needed. Don Woodinville wa