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Check timing too. It may be advanced. btw are you in Newfoundland? We have club members there and I am in NS... and can ring to help you out.

For your convenience, here is @Zulaytr's manifold picture with the Eastwood "Calyx" dressing.

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/nissan-300zx-z31/6834289947.html

Yes. On those early car photos, they photoshoped (circa 1969) the badges:

Wow... $170 page!!! Looks like some deep pockets sniping early Z materials. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-USA-Market-Brochure-Catalog-Sports-Car-One-Sheet-/223435272816?_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l44720&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true

This is an S30 site so the majority will say S30. They are easy to work on. Simple in design. Parts are easy to obtain. Free technical documentation everywhere. The support of this site. Appreciating value. Beautiful good looks. Easy to modify. Easy to configure for stock, street, drag, track. Prices are relatively low (but hurry) All reasons to do an S30

From Hoover Bag:

Some good ideas here:

They missed the picture of an 8 track included in the sale. It was in the dash:

The shims for bump steer reduction are clever!

Thanks Jim, The 73 harness has the two fuel sender wires and a green and black wire coming out of the same part. I thought both the green and black were for an optional fuel pump... it the black the harness ground I am looking for? 1971 fuel sender and harness connection Here is other stuff I documented on the 71: Broken Rear gnd wire from harness? Patching and extending a new connector Extended and fastened.

@zKars I'm restoring a friend's 1973 but I forget where the ground wire near the gas tank comes off the harness. Do you recall? Here are rear gnd pics for a 71 resto I did but I can't figure where it came out of the harness. Here is the gas tank area gnd. Here is the one near the antenna:

Helped my buddy with his BRE tribute. Rear suspension finished and assembled. Cosmo Coil over rear height is set. EZ to do! Differential installed and filled. Made a bracket to offset the throttle linkage on the firewall. Cut down the Shepard's hook to fit. Optimized the linkage geometry (throttle plate throw vs foot pedal throw). Set the pedal stop.

Yes. Look at the profile. It sticks out like a sore thumb.

The rear wheel always seemed too far forward to me... not just the differential. Look at the wheel well gap leading edges.

I'd recommend a different push rod or fill the pits then polish smooth.

Polishing the stem of the push rod (no pits) and using sealant on the seal it passes through can help.

Buddy https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/man-with-budweiser-tattoo-on-eyebrow-suspect-in-theft-of-firefighter-s-car-1.5046774

Not for long "Sandy" ?

The FSM was a copy and paste from year to year with minor changes except when model changed. It seems some of the incorrect earlier versions fell through the cracks. I have a whole section of the Hoover hard drive dedicated to restorations and these details.

Nice resto!