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Your timing is now 12 to 32 , you can try 16 to 36 to get more pep once you sorted out the chain. Most Z's like 35 to 38 max timing.

It looks like an Elizabethan collar for a side hill gouger. Must have got mixed up with the off-road hill climbing Nismo suspension parts.

Springs are now NLA from Weber so Spruell had a run of SS replacements made: http://www.spruellmotorsport.com/new-rust-proof-stainless-springs-weber-throttle-shaft-return-spring-p-3555.html

I'm interested. Can you check it out? btw I'll be in Virginia Beach in a few weeks... may make a run over if I can work it out.

Ignition timing has to be set correctly. Triples like lots of timing in the lower rpm's.

It is best to run a line from the thermostat housing back to the pump inlet so that the coolant can circulate before the thermostat opens. This prevents hot spots and also prevents the pump from cavitating.

Suggested Sequence 1. Do you plan to install ZG flares, front air dam, spoiler, bumper change, new performance parts like aluminum radiator, wide/bigger wheels, exhaust, french/delete parts, etc? If so, fit these parts/do work before you strip the car to ensure they work and roughly line up with no interference. 2. Once you have this done then strip the car completely. 3. Address the body work first on stripped shell. 4. In parallel you can work on refreshing the systems (brakes, cooling, wheels, engine, lubrication, steering, ignition, fuel, drive train, wiring/electrical) 5. For reassembly, some like to install engine and suspension/wheels before painting, I like to do this after. Be sure to install the brake and fuel lines before putting engine and drive train in. 6. Do the interior before the glass and trim (except of course door glass and quarter windows which go in before the adjacent interior parts). 7. Put dash in after interior trim and windshield is in place. (put wiper motor and linkage in before windshield).

Reading that paper makes me sick. It is filled with fluff, bs, and poor grammar/English. They are too dumb to even be successful crooks.

Nope.. transmission rear seal. Just mark diff, with drive shaft, remove 4 bolts at differential, and pull drive shaft spline out. Seal can then be changed.

rear seal is ez pz to change

If you have the ZX stick then the internal components or bottom nylon cup could be worn and causing the rattle. Try shimming the spring as a first step.

I've read that a two step seems to work: 1. Lacquer Thinner to soften. 2. Wintergreen oil to soak http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/soften-hard-rubber.865303/ Here in Canada, a rust proofing liquid called Rust Check seems to soften rubber nicely in an unwanted fashion. It may work too:

Here is a common Ford PCV 1/2" grommet part 42065 available at most autozone, canadian tire, etc shops. It comes close: 1/2" hole, 1" top curved face, 1.4" bottom face https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/filters-16470/pcv-valve-grommet-12023/dorman-help-pcv-valve-grommet/42065/4527812/1989/ford/f-350 Part 42066 comes close too: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/filters-16470/pcv-valve-grommet-12023/dorman-help-pcv-valve-grommet/42066/4527813/1968/ford/mustang

Mike, I used to have a 16 track reel-to-reel machine and for cleaning the rubber on the pinch roller, Tascam sold lacquer thinner. It softened the rubber while cleaning the iron oxide particles from its surface. A rub with some lacquer thinner may help soften the grommet.

Here is a rubber grommet that looks like it will work: 25mm diameter 12.5mm hole Some car rubber detailer fluid will make it black and shiny. https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Rubber-Grommets-1-O-D-x-1-2-I-D-Hole-plus-or-minus/272214549916?hash=item3f6140659c:g:LJMAAOSwiylXBQk2

Kats, There are similar shaped parts that are used on floor carpets on modern cars. Not sure if you can find one similar but here is a Toyota example: I'll keep an eye out in hardware stores here. 1" top diameter and 1/2" shaft diameter.

Salt in the air from the Atlantic ocean (as fog and ocean spray), road salt, and daily winter temperature changes above and below freezing ensure all metal in this region gets a thorough thrashing of salty brine. It is easy to see the good metal from the bad metal. The Walker exhaust I put on my Rav is made from the same cheap crap and looks as bad as the rotor after a year! The original Toyota stuff lasts ~ 10 years or more. I would not buy a Korean car or Mazda here due to their accelerated rusting (compared to Honda and Toyota). Nissan and Subaru fall in between.