240260280

Big thanks Charles! I'm now doing the manifold studs and dialed back the current to match 0.18A/in-sq. It works much better so I am dialing back further with each successive stud. Less cloudy deposition. FYI I did an experiment and put the stud close to the plate and could see a gradient of deposition. Powdery near the plate and shiny furthest away. The tank I have is a 5 gallon bucket with a full sheet of zinc around the circumference. For even deposition, it may be good to have the part farthest from the plate and simply rotate it to address shadowing. The chap in this video seems to have that architecture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nmn94B5UUuU Maybe the purpose of the zinc plate is simply to replace what is already in solution so it does not need to be too close to the part... just in the mix.

Please jump on my bandwagon! I just bought a made in Canada bench vise to replace the cheap-Chines- crap-8"-pot-metal-piece-of-$^!# called a "vise". I think one of the PS I have is made in Japan. I picked it up at the equivalent of a Goodwill for $10 mixed up with all the hi-fi stuff.

Stiff TC rod makes cornering over bumps horrible. I went to the ball and socket...what a nice upgrade.

Good stuff and thanks for the current tip and xls!!!! I wish the cheapy vinegar method would have such smooth finish out of the bath like yours but it may not be easy. I'll give it another more proper go with more effort however I'll crack open the Caswell in a month and follow your excellent lead! I plan to make a new plating solution with the vinegar and epsom salts but I'll also try coffee filters as anode bags

I'm lucky and have a couple of lab test bench ps. One is 3 amp and the other is 5 amp. I'm just using the the 3amp with the current limited to ~ 0.25A for a single valve cover bolt for 10min plate. Both power supplies can go into current regulation or voltage regulation.

For boots: NOS leather with string on ebay now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1970-73-OE-Shift-Boot-Console-NOS-4-speed-NEW-427/323039827512?fits=Model%3A240Z&epid=1922201542&hash=item4b36ac9638:g:PSMAAOxywOtSX~Tr&vxp=mtr

Great idea Dave!

I'll add my low budget work to contrast the beautiful work from Charles. The quality is on the low end of the scale but it is protected. I have not broken out the Caswell kit yet so I am playing with the DIY vinegar, Epsom salts, sugar, zinc flashing, fish tank bubbler, and DC power supply. The only deviations from the typical procedures on the web are that I am dipping in phosphoric acid and wire brushing by hand. Using the cheap method, it is imperative that you wire brush the part very well after plating otherwise it will look like a galvanized chain link fence post. This means a lot of manual labour and time. Plating too long or at too high a current causes crusty finish. A wire wheel on a grinder would make the results even better. Especially if done before and after the plating. Below is a plated and wire brushed valve cover bolt along with one that was in the acid then under soapy water for the past 24 hours. I'll dip it in the acid, scrub in washing machine detergent, rinse, then plate and report back (second picture below). You can see the rough zinc coat on the tip of the top bolt.

If you can clean plugs enough to start (using carb cleaner for example) a properly tuned engine will usually clean them in a few minutes. 5 sets are more than enough to get going. 2 sets would be fine. Just get some carb cleaner and gloves. Do the work in fresh outside air and a cheap dollar store stainless steel bowl.

[img[

The coolant temp sensor usually causes that problem. Double check the connections to it as well as ~ 1 foot deeper in the wire harness down stream. There are bullet connectors that can corrode in the harness. Also make sure the connectors to the coolant temp sensor are not mixed up with another sensor.

I had the same problem a few years ago on a 98 rav4. I managed to get a rod from a used Nissan Z clutch master that worked fine. Many common Japanese car parts are interchangeable between vehicles as the manufacturer is usually not the brand on the car.

Drugs + John + Paul + George + Ringo + Recording Studio + the 60's =

Who would place a head on its valves on concrete floor? Good Grief! Avoid this notorious seller. He abuses parts before he ships... guaranteed! Want a head with bent valves? Buy this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-E88-Cylinder-Engine-Motor-Head-OEM-w-Warranty/152905724162?hash=item2399e43102:g:11AAAOSwHQ9WVe7D&vxp=mtr

For rev limiting, I have witnessed three causes: 1. The EFI system has a false Idle signal from the TVS due to a short. The ECU thinks that the foot is off the pedal and will not flow gas above ~2800rpm 2. The ignition system has a fault. I'm my case, a points distributor was the cause. The power died under load at high rpms as if there was a fuel cut-off. 3. Weak fuel pressure. Weak fuel pressure is not an issue with no load (revving in neutral) but under load on the road, there will not be sufficient fuel to power the car beyond a certain rpm X load point.

If the EFI system checks OK and fuel pressure is OK then it is possible the injectors may have been swapped with larger ones from a turbo for example. Please try to read any numbers on the injectors and report back.

Nope, I'll have to video it for you doubting Thomas' (Tomi?)