240260280

Remove needle and plunger Install dome but with all 4 screws very loose and not touching dome Rotate Dome CCW and CW while lifting and dropping piston to explore where it binds and does not bind Put dome in middle of its free rotation limits Turn down 4 screws so they just kiss the metal dome Slowly and evenly tighten screws in a cross pattern (like lug nuts) in quarter turns while lifting and dropping piston Repeat if necessary If you can get it to drop w/o binding then install needle and repeat drop test. Install plunger and repeat drop test

Welcome! What year Z(s) are you driving?

I was thinking it was rust, as it seems to be missing from the list. Fer is short for Ferrous but sounds like Fur... yes an obtuse thought I know. Could have been a warp drive joke too:

Excellent tips! Thanks. This is the one that I missed that would have helped: 3) pull down the rear bearing cap until you are 3/4” from bottoming I had read to never pull the caps down in the Monroe of Honsowetz but I think it is needed for the last cap. I'll do it on my next rebuild for sure!

Darwin Award Nominee: https://www.reuters.com/article/us-tesla-crash/tesla-says-crashed-vehicle-had-been-on-autopilot-prior-to-accident-idUSKBN1H7023

Installed crank for first time. Took a while taking all of the measurements of the journals and bearings but all was in spec and. Even the crank float was in the middle of the range. The hardest part was just the rear main side seals. Guy that anaerobic sealant is fluorescent pink! Crank turns silky smooth by hand. I have to pick up rod bolts from MSA when in Oregon to finish the job. Pistons are waiting.

I'm wondering if the colder 160F thermostat is what is keeping the temp gauge lower and causing a seemingly long warm-up? I would think the Z gauge would centre on 180F but it does not really get there?

Do you have a thermostat installed? Most vehicles here are warmed up before 5min at -10C

Moi aussi.

Engine is warmed up even when off

From the FSM:

Earliest engine manual "Model L24 L20A Series Engine" has error in photo but correct value in specification table. 5 to 6 kg-m is incorrect for both

Yes.. they look great. Sounds like you have an intermittent issue. Try running with each jet turned down an additional half turn and see if you like it better btw I did 180kph on that highway along the canal... you have the best test drive course of all of us! but that road is deadly at night.

I have more:)

Jeff, I guess your boss will have to ride shotgun and do all the roadside work... or you can trade for one of these cars as serviced on the road by the JAF http://www.jaf.or.jp/e/road_s_info.htm Seriously though, you can probably relocate the stay/prop to the other side ... you certainly have the skills!

I worry about the rest of the car. If it is just the fuel filler, do this: 1. Remove it. 2. Remove paint with paint remover. 3. Soak part for 6 hours in phosphoric acid 4. Blow dry. 6. Degrease with Lacquer Thinner 8. Prime with etching primer. 9. Paint If your are thoroughly cautious and have a chemistry kit like some of us... add a step 3.5 3.5. Zinc Plate

Ospho (phosphoric acid) may creep into the cracks. The problem is the metal under that paint was not treated properly. It is rusting under the paint.

Please post a photo of the plugs as they are now.

I believe the bonnet (aka hood) stay on left is further evidence the S30 was designed for North America It goes back even before the first 432R that raced in Japan on Jan 18, 1970 (below) ,,, with triple Webers no less.

Does not matter.. videos are great! Thanks

Say Lovey?

Looks like that pump has a built in filter. High RPM weakness is either not enough fuel flow or your ignition failing.

Yes the high number is correct. Some blue loctite on that bolt and the two small bolts that hold the end plate on are recommended.

Have a look at this video: wind_tunnel_2.mp4