240260280

A new one is coming out with usb i/o and rev limiter: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte-mk2_crank_fired_ignition/

Don't forget https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MegaJolt_Lite_Jr.

Just saw these at HF. Not a complete-coverage set but some nice sizes that could be used for jet drilling. https://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-micro-drill-bit-set-30-pc-61526.html Idle & Spill 50 (5) 0.5mm 60 (5) 0.6mm Main 120 (2) 1.2mm Air Corrector 150 (2) 1.5mm 180 (2) 1.8mm 200 (2) 2.0mm 235 (2) 2.35mm Other 80 (5) 0.8mm 100 (3) 1.0mm 300 (2) 3.0mm

New timing bolts are peace of mind. Turbo bolts are stronger though not needed for stock applications. Arp studs are strongest and overkill for stock application. You can make timing wedge from a non-splintery piece of wood. I saw a nice plastic table saw push stick at HF that could be shaped to do the trick: https://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html

The guys is a crook who has already ripped people off.

I reported as fraudulent under the Ebay report item. Others are recommended to do so.

Yes, it makes sense. The choke cable interferes with the arms on the linkage when they swing down. It is a poor implementation. As mentioned above, just remove the cable completely.

Yes you can spay with carb cleaner and brush away carbon. The plugs clean themselves in the engine once you get it running and normal fuel flow. You can buy a spark plug cleaner if you want: https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-spark-plug-cleaner-32860.html

Too much carbon on your plugs. You fouled them.

Looks great from the photos and the value of these Z's is continually rising; so that is two items in its favour!

I'm currently in Oregon. Sometimes I work in Long Island and NJ area. I'll update you if there.

Yes. Just remove the choke cable from the carbs and ensure the lever on the top of the carbs is all the way off to prevent any choke circuit leaking into the manifold. You may enjoy this page: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

No, Some have have a second "mini carburettor" that feeds air and gas directly into the manifold in parallel with the main throats... very over kill. Most just pump the pedal for a few squirts of raw gas from the accelerator circuit before cranking in cold weather.

https://www.innova.com/en-US/Product/Detail/3568

https://www.google.ca/search?q=site:classiczcars.com+bcdd&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjo7LbUlKbaAhVKoVMKHYC-AGIQ_AUIDSgE&biw=2049&bih=1011&dpr=0.67

Try turning the screw or bolt under the control valve located under the throttle body. It is called the boost controlled deceleration device (BCDD). It is a controlled leak around the throttle plate to reduce high manifold vacuum when the throttle valve snaps shut (usually under braking) The screw turning is trial and error until you are happy with the way the rpms fall when stopping.

You may consider replacing rear main seal on engine in addition to the rear seal on your transmission. Use a good spline grease on the transmission front shaft spline, the throw out bearing sliding surface, the fork assembly pressure points, pilot bushing surface at end of crank, propeller shaft spline,and in the throw-out bearing, Use blue loctite on the flywheel to crank bolts and pressure plate bolts (torque these properly).

I thought it was for smoothing pump output variations as the fuel system is open with a return line as opposed to plumbing to the bathroom which is closed. I did not think a water hammer effect would occur in an open system?

Silver Spray Paint or Copper Gasket Spray Head Gasket

Motor Oil Main bearing bolts Crank rod bolts Head bolts Piston Side oil holes Piston Pin Pre-lube oil passages in block

Clevite Assembly Lube: Rocker Pivot Tops Rocker Arms (both contact surfaces and socket) Valve Tip Lash Pad (top, sides, and bottom) Cam Lobes Cam Rotating contact surfaces Cam Tower Surfaces Main Bearings (inside, and sides of thrust) Crank Rotating contact surfaces (main and rod) Rod Bearings (inside)

Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant: Rear Main Cap base (back 25mm) Rear Main Cap side seals (top 25mm)

Dry: 1. Rod Bearing back sides 2. Main bearing back sides 3. Pilot bushing back side