drunkenmaster

Hmmm.... so in this picture, I see a 1) strut and rear drum brake assembly 2) a halfshaft/driveshfat 3) spindle pin 4) transverse link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=37792 what do others see? :classic: which or what is the control arm if it is not the transverse link? I dont know what Australian or American terminolgy is, I just use the names in my Haynes manual which could be half my problem.

Was originally intending Carl, but progress pics of yours would be good too

Do you have any photos you could stick in your gallery?

Whats the finish on the chassis coat like? Did you spray on or brush on? Does it resemble paint in the sense that it is thin enough to show signs of future rust (well as much as 2pack paint would anyhow) Thanks

What did you put over the POR on the inside? This is my biggest problem...

I use the round end of a spanner to fit tightly over the head of the bolt or nut then use a heavy rubber mallet on the other side Perhaps a little less civilised...

You will need to take the rear wheels off the ground to remove the diff, as the transverse links attach to the chassis via the diff mounts. Once you remove these to access the diff, the wheels will be free to sway side to side. I suppose then you can re fit the diff mounts minus the diff to re attach the transverse links, then lower the wheels back to the ground again. I guess this should work, by the way, are transverse links and control arms different words for the same thing?

Sent you an email, Im coming up on the weekend :rambo:

Chuck in "S30" into the Automotive -> Parts search and feast your eyes.... Might not be a huge deal in the U.S with so many reproduction parts, but here, I am wondering how much shipping would cost I also love it how the translator has translated something like "classic, vintage etc" into "medieval times"

a lot of money for rust prevention ? Do the terms "Bare metal respray", "Epoxy Primer", "POR-15", "New floor pans", "New frame rails" sound familiar.... After the $^!# and expense we go through to save our rusting zeds, I'll save up the extra $300 to go towards the exhaust as the rest of the car will have sucked up multiples of that in rust prevention. I have never heard that masking tape idea though....sounds reasonable except for cutting open a good exhaust to insert the resonator and cleaning the cooked masking tape off the piping

Yeh, is just rust preventative, no performance difference. I took a mild steel muffler of my car that I bought new after about a year and there was already loose flakes of metal floating around inside it that had rusted off, not to mention the surface rust on the outside that had flaked off all the black paint.

Have a look at the mufflers first, any thing with baffles or ridges to absorb sound will harm your flow as you probably know.

Is that stainless? If so it sounds decent Stainless mufflers ~$200 ea. Stainless piping ~$450 Mild piping ~$250 HiTech are known to be expensive, and thats even in Melbourne where we dont have them

Yeh if you could let me know what they have it would be great, or if they have any more 2 seaters being wrecked other than that blue one thats been out front for ages. My bonnet is skewed, it had been in an accident before by the look of it. It seems fairly straight now though but it fouls the guards when trying to close it, I think its the hinges. Also when it does close, the front end sits up high and need to be pushed down. Im in no real rush for a new bonnet as the car isnt exactly moving, but if a parts car came with a good one it would be an obvious bonus.

Interesting

I checked with the local authorties and it is perfectly legal here, different country of course. I did think about the increased damage possibility, but there will be damage even if they hit the rear rear bumper. The 240/260 bumpers arent the most substantial impact protection around :classic:

hey, stop looking at my rear end

The 2nd photo gives a closer look. The car is a full days drive away from me, this weekend is mothers day and my birthday, so I will be taking the drive the weekend after.

top side

more photos

Im basing that on my current car (4 cylinder). I got an EPA notice in the mail and I spent some time stuffing around with a baffled resonator, then 2 straight through resonators, adding a 2nd proper muffler was the only thing that made a big difference in the end.

Geez, why does the search for a straight bonnet always go wrong. Im using the car for parts so its not a huge issue, but a straight bonnet would have sweetened the deal. Thanks for confirming my thoughts.

Speaking of asian breweries: We went to a micro-brewery in Shanghai and it wasnt pretty. Got hooked on the local Tsing-tao beer though, I still buy it if I see it around in Melbourne. To me it tatses like a cross between a Coldie and Hoegaarten (Belgian beer cafe on st. kilda rd and Pavillion on Doncaster Rd a few places with this on tap in Melbourne ). I was told by a waiter that apparently when Shanghai was more an international hotspot many years ago the Germans had a few breweries. When they left the Chinese working there took them over and using the same techniques made their own beer, Tsing- tao. Dont know how accurate the story is, but doesnt sound hard to beleive and answers why it tastes similar to Hoegaarten.

I'm looking at buying this car from a fellow member, howeever I would like some advice on the following picture. the crease marks on the underside this bonnet towards the front suggest to me that the bonnet has been folded over in an accident of some kind? Right or wrong?

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0381&P=1 Apparently so, check out the results. For my zed I am thinking about using a centre offset rear muffler such as the genie tornado and perhaps a centre straight through muffler midway, or perhaps another centre offset. Another muffler is more desrved that a thinner resonator I think.