drunkenmaster

not more trims :stupid:

11 pages...wow :classic: My name is James, I'm 23 and live in Melbourne, Australia. I graduated last year in electronic enigneering but am having trouble finding work so if you know of any send it my way Admittedly I have only really been interested in the Z's for just over a year now and in this time I have owned 3, 2 of which I still own. I was on the lookout for a light weight rear wheel drive car with a minimum of 6 cylinders but a turbo 4 would have scraped in. I was looking to buy a nissan s14 when I visited a friend who was working on a stripped out old rust heap i could barely make out. I couldnt understand why he would spend so much time and money on a technologically out dated junk heap but he proceeded to email pictures of a bunch of fine zeds and my eyes were opened. I always planned to fit some modern power plant in the zed be it nissan or lexus v8 or rb25det but as I have worked on the car it has become more personal and I would like to build as much as I could myself and I felt such a big swap was too muchf or a first timer. I have found myself a L28ET minus the turbo and will take it from there... I also just finished re writing my website if anyone is interested to see my cars and what I'm up to. www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Z.html

Ahh, so its nothing too fancy then. So if you knock on the roof of a Z car you will be getting a metallic knock on the actual roof skin? No padding etc? I really wish I took more notice of the complete car I used to have, but why would you bother when the car is already complete. It only when you are building from a shell you realise what you took for granted :stupid: What about the edging? I think the rear would be concealed with a plastic trim with the interior light but what about the front and sides? Thanks

Hmmmm.....I'm seeing things that I havent seen before and thats not a good thing :cross-eye Aside from the obvious dash skin and instrumentation which I plan to replace anyway, can any of you experienced dash people spot what of value/importance I may be missing here:

I am after some pointers on how the roof lining is fixed, what it consists of and how it holds its shape etc. Is it something you would make new or search a junkyard for? Thanks

call zworx in Melbourne look em up in the yellowpages.com.au they have shelves full of Z parts, unfortunatley more z31 and z32 than s30 in my case

Australian website with very handy datsun based classifieds www.ozdat.com probably very little use to those in the US

"The Z Shop" sounds like a prime suspest? www.zspares.com.au also Zworx, can find them in the yellowpages.com.au

Thanks, sounds like rubber is a winner.

Thats similar to what I was being told earlier. Thanks for the confirmation.

Thanks for that, it was actually the facts that the original bushes had worn through the undercoat that got me thinking in the first place but what you say makes sense. No doubt I will come up with a new riddle to ponder when I spend all monday wedged under the car again.

Be mindful of poorly machined/lightened flywheels exploding at fast revolutions. Alan Stean at z car workshop offer a lightened flywheel but im yet to receive details on it, ideally a manufactured one rather than a michined one would be the way to go. He also offers clutches. Depending on what info i receive I may be getting quite a bit sent down to melbourne.

Ok, I was looking at the underside of the zed today ( as I do most days :stupid: ) and was looking at the upper rear control arm bush mounts, the ones that hold the bush/control arm captive. It is a sandwich between the diff mount and the underbody if you get what im talking about. Anyhow, the circular cutout in both the underbody and diff mount is nice and smooth and this got me wondering if this needs to be. Do the bushes need a smooth mounting, do they need to be able to freely rotate? I amp repainting the underside of the car soon with brush on POR-15 and sound deadener and this will not provide the smoothest surface, even if i dont use the sound deadener on this point, the por will still be slightly rough. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but you do ponder a lot of stupid issues when your suffering cabin fever from being flat on your back sandwiched between a car and the ground for several hours cleaning of 30 year old underbody paint/deadener.

rear control arms are the real 8 bushes in question i suppose?

He runs a 240Z and thus no rear sway bar. He was referring to the 8 control arm bushes and the 2 diff mount bushes.

Does anyone else have trouble accessing them this week? www.ozdat.com Thanks

I went to a reputable suspension place and spoke to a guy who uses a 240Z in targa tasmania and he was of the opinion rubber all round for the rear with some urethane up front. Decisions decisions...

So we are getting negative feedback for urethane bushes? Anyone for them?

With the L28 I am building I am porting the head, fitting a mild cam, looking at pistons/gaskets for ideal compression, upgrading injectors, fuel pump and fitting a larger 65mm throttle body. Als progammable engine management, most likely haltec or motec.

I have heard from one source recently that the firmness of these can causes structural failure of other related systems and welds. Any opinion on this?

Just keep coming with the bad news dont ya

Will this matter in any way? What about the hatch glass and trimming? the same between 2 seater and 2+2?

They dont have to be "automotive" relays, they just have to suit your current/volatge requirements. Im not sure about names of stores in the states, but there should be a wealth of electronic component stores. You should have an equivalent to something like this: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4068&CATID=&keywords=relay&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= and from my guess the maximum current a headlight will draw will be under 15A@12V, as arent they usually under 160W??

Those numbers for the turbo L28E seem low? I have seen the dyno sheet for a lucky bastard with a lightly worked L28E NA making 124rwkw...I hope mine will do the same but the range of power figures people seem to pull varies so much :stupid:

I also would like ot know if there are any problems with this setup? I was actually having a play with the L series engine calculator last week and found the L24 rods would give me quite nice compression in my L28.