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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. A lot of issues can come from modification and air leaks. 1st has there been any mods to the EFI or any other engine system? I dont recall a detail picture of the engine bay, it may help spot something out of the ordinary. as ZH mentioned your fuel pressure is too high for idle, that could be a FPR thing (defect or lack of vacuum), or a pluged return line, or a massive loss of vacuum, in which case the engine would run like poo. as far as the 0 pressure that is the way the system works, the fuel pump only runs when the engine is cranking or running. if you just turn the key to "on" but the engine is not running the pump will stay off. Its to prevent fuel from feeding a fire incase of a malfunction. A simple smoke of the intake system will find leaks. also a vacuum reading would be good, you should see around 15-18 inHg on a warmed up engine at idle. Vacuum leaks show up most when idling. Smoke out the system and look for leaks. Its very easy get a cheap cigar, plug up the front of the AFM, blow smoke into the intake manifold thru the brake boost port (attach a rubber hose and blow smoke there). watch out for smoke. I am assuming the idle adjustment screw works and the rest of the system is intact.
  2. well went to orileys and compared the fan they had, it was different in a lot of ways including thicker extending the fan about 3/8" further in. This one has cut out rather than holes on the mount that goes to the pully as well. I opted back to the Z fan and this new clutch, seems to give a good compromise between the fan blades being shrouded and the angle of the shroud allowing air from the sides to enter in front of the fan. You could really see the issue looking under the car with the bottom shroud removed, get the fan too close and you could almost reverse the air flow on the sides of the rad.
  3. yep and its in the box for storage, will check it tomorrow.
  4. just seems odd Yarb that I needed to do this. check your distance from the front of the rad where it bolts to the core support back to the end of the shroud. Only thing I can think of is my rad maybe thinner than some others? The fan is actually completely inside now maybe 1/4 inch inboard of the shroud.
  5. hmm based on the slope of the shroud on the long sides, it looks like the air would feed in at the tip edge of the fan rather than in front of the fan. I may go back to the original. going to stop by a local auto parts place and confirm the dimensions of the AZ fan to a different make, just to see if it was shallow.
  6. with ZX fan (I presume) mount ring offset towards rear of fan. I like this fit much better, still have about 1" clearance fan to rad
  7. you really should be only replacing if there is an issue. The FPR and the EGR maybe fine, you just need to test or check. the reason being you don't want to introduce more variables into the situation. Re the fuel pressure you can just check it no need for an inline but it that is what you want its ok and should be after the fuel filter as the FSM shows it that way. The power test will help find the issue (disable one cylinder at a time while the event is happening. disconnecting the injectors is the best way, find the problem and focus on it. you need to address fuel/spark/timing/compression and see which one or combo is the issue.
  8. that's 5.5 inches from the back of the core support at the top to the back of the shroud.
  9. I am still a bit confused as a buddy sent me some pics with his setup and it seemed the Z fan (mount ring closer to the back or so it appeared) fit much better into the shroud. I am going to pull the bottom shroud off, pull the fan, take the fan clutch off and do some measurement. My setup is stock, with a 3 row rad (after market copper brass), two groove crank pulley and the fan sits outside the back of the shroud about 1"
  10. ecu behind kick panel driver side.
  11. could not get the .mov to work, but generally speaking you should start by reading the plugs. running rich or lean will be a data point. Something to always look into is simple stuff like firing order and timing. don't know why they would change but once its out of your hands you can't be sure of anything. I see you changed the water temp sensor, did you check the resistance values at the ECU connector? This is important to make sure the wiring from the sensor to the ecu is correct and the values the ECU are correct for the given water temps. You mentioned fuel filter, have you checked the fuel pressure? Another problem can be air leaks, a disconnected hose missing o ring on an injector, split hose on the AFM all kinds of issue can be air leak related. Smoking the intake is the best way to check, just make sure you block off the front of the AFM, smoke can be added at the brake boost port. Speaking of brake boost, I had a poor running problem that turned out to be a brake booster (poor brakes made that an easy find), but the point is you have to look at all place where air leaks can be an issue. One more place to check, if so equipped, check the EGR valve, a stuck open EGR is the same as an air leak.
  12. figured it out, see 1st post
  13. ah got this message Your cart contains item(s) that need(s) to be checked by us before your payment. Click "Submit order" to start this process. even though it had the final lower shipping price
  14. for fun I started a new order got as far as submit order selected japan surface post (vs fed ex) got it down to 80+27. did not pull the trigger to actually submit. I reviewed my old order and it was 75+46 back in 2019
  15. that's odd, did not have the problem with them.
  16. Never mind figure it out, I see there are two styles of fans, one for the 3 row crank pulley (zx power steering) vs the 2 row. I must have picked up a zx fan at a JY at some point, had it installed on my spare engine, and was using it for a comparison to my daily. The fan clutch is not an issue at all.
  17. oil pumps generally don't go bad unless there has been severe abuse. Plus they are easy to replace, you don't need a new spindle unless the old one is damaged. AND you don't need to remove the spindle to replace the pump. Just remove the dizzy, grab the tang with some locking pliers (gently here) and unbolt the old pump. remove it leaving the spindle intact. then get the new pump fill it with oil, get a new gasket, and orient it so the oil pump drive fits the tang, don't turn the tang turn the oil pump. This way you don't have to worry about clocking the dizzy drive correctly. tighten oil pump bolts back up, remove pliers from dizzy drive and you are good to go. IF you somehow drop the drive spindle out and loose the orientation, its not the end of the world just an extra step to get it in correctly. The FSM covers this well.
  18. The head gasket comment prob due to having never done this before. If you are careful you can preserve the existing head gasket, you just have to exercise some care when re installing it. the TC cover slides just under the gasket surface, if you ham fist it, you could bugger up the gasket. You want to pull the oil pan down a bit and kind of tilt the TC cover into place with the gap at the bottom of the pan providing clearance while sliding in. there are alignment dowels so once you get it started under the head gasket the dowels will come into play and get everything lined up. here is the video, its more talk than action as I don't like to try and setup cameras and do work, but I do try to talk thru the hard parts, and what to look out for.
  19. ok I was off on the shipping but the cover was 80$ https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13501a8600 so 130$ for a brand new one. I got one this way, the casting was not as smooth on the outside but still perfectly useable and the machined parts (the surfaces that matter) looked perfect. a Good machine shop should have no problem fixing what you have, but it may cost more than a new one (I really have no idea, but just in case you now know what a new cost so you can make that call on new or refurb).
  20. 1st off you can buy a brand new TC from japan I think it was about 90$ pls shipping around 30$ Next you do not need to remove the valve cover and you do not need anything more than the TC cover gaskets (2 gaskets get them from Nissan). you prob should replace the water pump while at it. for the amount of work to have it professionally repaired you could get a new cover. I have a 4 part video on this, you can find it at Dave WM on you tube.
  21. if any evidence of side seals leaking on rear main bearing cap, do those. Not sure I would mess with them if no leakage was noted. you can tell easy with the flywheel off while doing the rear main seal.
  22. pretty wizz poor job on my part from the 1st time I replaced the TC cover (after the tight side chain guide failed. If you look closely you can see the green dye coolant in the weep channel. All done, no seepage so far looking good. videos coming.
  23. Well its a ton easier to replace than the master that's for sure. Hardest part for me bleeding it. I tried the vacuum pump approach (no helper) that did not really work out well. With my helper it was done in just a few cycles. Again the diff in throw was what really amazed me. I hope to be making my east coast trip in the coming months, are you going to be in NC? I need a few stops to stretch my legs, looking for some Z people to yak at. I was hoping to make it to Mt Mitchell maybe keep going depending on how the trip goes. Looking at I think it was the 301 out of Florida, seems to be a nice non interstate way to go.
  24. Are you replacing the slave as well? a few weeks back I started having issues getting the proper feel on the clutch (and would grind if I tried to engage). I too did the lets bleed it, perhaps I goofed it last time I did a maintenance fluid replacement. I seemed better but a few weeks later started acting up. the Clutch would not disengage even when it was freshly blead until it was all the way to the floor. I bought the Nissan master and slave getting ready for the operation. about a week ago I noticed a drop of brake fluid on the bottom of the slave bellows. At that time I replaced just the slave (the master was newish but not OE from the PO). I was surprised by how much more throw the clutch fork was getting while bleeding, and now the clutch will be fully disengaged much earlier than ever before. FYI if you order a new hose from Nissan it does NOT come with a copper washer. There was one on the slave I replaced so I assumed it was supposed to be there. the threads look to be the kind that need the washer to seal.
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