Dave WM

Will the fork and sleeve in my 4sp 280 work with the 280zx 5 speed? I bought the transmission with out those parts. Would like to know before I start pulling transmissions.

It fits the filter nipple ok, its the tank that was the issue, IIRC it was way to big for the 3/8 at least seemed to be at the time and I really do not want to try to hard, BUT that maybe because when I 1st started working on the car I was such a newb to such things that I don't think I tried to lube it up. Perhaps it would have been fine, esp since others have been doing this as you note with the 3/8's. I will give it a shot tomorrow with my modified line, while under there I plan to change out the diff oil as well. I have already loosened both the filler and drain plugs.

Maybe this has been covered a bunch but here is my attempt and installing the filter. 1st the reason why, my tank was renewed and a the time the prefilter sock was NOT replaced, so I have a open tube for the pickup. So the G-3 fram filter was picked to go between the tank and the pump inlet. 1st problem was fuel hose sizing, I think I had used either 1/2 or 7/16" fuel hose originally for the tank to the pump. the 7/16 seemed way to big to fit on the 3/8 filter inlet. I did not trust the hose clamp to make up the difference, perhaps it would but I wanted to try something different. So I am in the process of heat molding some 3/8 line over a 1/2" mandrel by heating up the hose, lubricating the mandrel and slipping it over then heat again and again and again. This is just an experiment as I like to try things and see what happens. So far the molding seems to be working and I don't think I am damaging the fuel hose (its not under pressure anyway). I am going to keep at it and see if the molding will retain its shape enough to install on the tank without stressing out the tank outlet. If it looks like its going to be too hard to fit I will go back with the 7/16 and just hope the clamp will make up the difference on the filter.

the water temp sensor is the main one (next to the AFM) for setting the fuel mixture, you need to check the chart for the ambient temp to see what the resistance should be.

check resistance of the water temp sender at the ECU connection per the FSM for the rich running, assuming the FPR is working correctly.

I hope this works out for you. One mine it had big sheets of red coating peeling off, then breaking up into smaller parts. I took it to a rad shop, they said "red coat" and told me they could not help. Next I tried putting a 2000 watt heat gun in it, wrapping it up with blankets, cooking it for hours. After melting down my cheap heat gun and nearly starting a fire (the blankets began to char, and the paint on the outside began to melt/burn) I put a bunch of hex nuts in it and sloshed it around with acetone till my arms ached. That broke up a lot of the (now black and charred looking) coating but still a mess. At that point I threw in the towel and took it to the renew guy. He told me there was a messed up filter plastic filter on the pickup (guess I melted that, duh). If I had to do it all over again I would prob take it to a custom shop and get a quote on having one fabricated. I hear you about going overboard. Guess I could have done nothing and drive around with a big arse pre filter on it.

Yep checked out on the console removal, did that when I replaced the bushings and rubber boot on the shift lever (4speed). Its those unexpected hang ups that worry me about the lift. I am reviewing my setup for jacks and stands etc.. started the PB blaster on the exhaust manifold bolts.

Got it. So I will make sure my replacement trans ON the floor jack, secured, will be able to get under the car, with a few inches to spare. I am still thinking of going to the rent a bay for this. Only issue is if I run into a show stopper, I would rather be home in the garage. I saw a video think it was on a ZX, where the mechanic had to remove the exhaust at the manifold to get room. My car is a CA car with the cat and all the heat shields, so not sure if that will need to be dealt with. JIC I am hitting it with some PB today to start the process incase I have to unbolt it.

I will check that out. I found this Sachs KF594-01

Geez what a confusing array of kits out there. I am not into racing prefer a nice smooth engagement. I have strong legs so does not have to be super light touch. A few things I see are different numbers of damper springs on the clutch friction plate, more I presume is better for smooth action? Number of fingers on pressure plate, More I presume is a easier to depress? Really just want a stock clutch, I suppose I should have checked to see if Nissan even has them 1st.

National Bushing PB-22 advance auto seems to be correct. Will pick up a few.

for those that have done this how much room underneath did you need? the lift idea is good for me but may be hard to work into my schedule. I have 3 ton jack stands and the floor jack. My orig idea was to get it up high, remove the wheels (don't like them dangling on the struts) use the wheels and a safety catch under the car. Use the jack stands at the approved jack points prob with some large wood blocks to help distribute the load. then figure a way to support the engine (maybe another jack stand) and use the floor jack to hold the trans up after unbolting. While I have it out I will take a good look at the drive shaft. I understand they cant be rebuilt (u joints) but after this many years I have no idea what the condition is or even if its an orig drive shaft. I know I should mark the placement at the diff before removing.

I remember reading about the low screw retainer on the speedo as well (to help id the trans). Got a new clutch fork rubber boot on the way as well. The shift bushings are good on it, and I have a good rubber on the 4speed shifter that I can transplant. I am using the paint can plastic top to keep the oil from leaking out the back, fit the ID of the seal perfect. that reverse lock out works well I actually tried to go from 4th to Rev on the bench, not happening.

I had guess this was a 81 based on the ratios I got when turning the input shaft. Compared them to so info found on line. Key was the tall 1st (about 3.0) and OD was about .75

here some pics

The mystery trans has the bent shifter on it just like the 4 speed. AND it had the 3.70 pinion. Really not sure what I have but will find out soon. Guess I have a 5sp MT now (mystery transmission)

delete double post

Update, I cleaned up the replacement gear from Zed Head, inspected the other gears, all looked good so put it back together.Replace missing oil gutter, new gasket, o rings, seals. found a rental bay in Kissimmee for 20$ per hour. hope to get out there in the coming weeks. Anybody in the central florida area that would like to tag along when I go let me know. they provide tools and lifts as well. after messing with the shifter some I decided to return spring was ok. Got some MT90 in it, when on lift will replace the diff fluid as well. Only thing that may be an issue is the blue pinion for the speedo, pretty sure that is not the correct one for my car, the plan is to use the one that is in the 4 speed after I pull it out. Well not wanting to mess with it a the bay, I went ahead and ordered a 17t pinion to but in the trans. 99% sure that is what its going to need. Courtesy had them for a reasonable amount.

will do and will report back my findings.

I will play with it when I get it back together and report back if I can improve. I went back and searched on shifter return springs and saw that this has been covered.

here is a pic of my custom made snap ring puller, works even if you have managed to break a prior tool and left a metal tooth stuck in the holes of the snap ring. I had to use both hands to pull the plier handles apart and when I got them open just a bit I had a help wedge a chisel blade into the jaws of the pliers holding them open then I could more easily work the tool and pull back extracting the snap ring. I also included a pic of spring #26 it the diagram that Eurodat posted up, with a ruler, 1.5 inches and VERY stiff (very painful to fingers to get it to collapse approx. 1/8 inch (I know not a very scientific measure, but I don't really have a scale that I think I can get an accurate reading on).

I was reading my messages before I saw your post about the preload. I will play with it a bit, and also look for another spring.

Bad master would just sink to the floor, hard to push sounds like booster not working. 1st thing to check would be is it getting vacuum.

Maybe sourcing a spring would be possible if the specs were known. There is a surplus store near me (sky craft in Orlando Fl) they have a LOT of misc hardware. I may stop by and see what's there. Bring my old spring and see how close a match (maybe a little taller and/or a little more spring).