Dave WM

the other tool I am looking for is a drill chuck extender. I got some reverse drill bits for drilling out the broken stud in the exhaust down pipe, but I have a feeling I will not be able to get a good shot at it, too tight for the drill and bit. I found a nice 3/8 extender that has a built in handle along the shaft that is there to help control the bit. this thing http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=59985&cat=51&ap=1

I have a HF less than 10 miles away, so sound like a plan. I was just there yesterday too....

I see HF has a nice little 1/4 inch pound that looks to be just the ticket.

no idea, but the one that came out was solid black rubber. I tested my big 1/2 torque wrench by connecting it to the 3/8 spring bar kind, I was able to get reliable clicking at about 80 inch pounds, so looks like I can use the monster to test a few and see how close I was. I don't plan on getting it up on the ramps again until I get my sway bars links in, (I use a combo of ramps/jack stands/jack/6x6's under the ramps to make sure I have about 4 systems in use before I go under the car, takes about 20 mins to get it setup).

Will do, hopefully its not too tight, don't think loosening would be a good idea.

torque to just good and snug using a stubby ratchet, triple checked I got them all about the same level of tight. the gasket looks well placed. I think the FSM calls for 7 ftlbs, not something I can really set for so I just went for nice a snug. Its not seeping anywhere except the exact same place, which leads me to believe its really rear main leaking down to the pan lip and just following it. I was very careful about making sure the pan was not dimpled (it was not) and getting a good clean surface on both the block and pan. Did NOT use any silicone goop or the like on the gasket since I have always read that is NOT to be used esp on OE parts like this. I did put it where the FSM said to, the parting lines of the timing cover and the rear main cap. I do have one of those old school 3/8 torque wrenches that is in inch pounds so I assume its just 84inch pounds, could see how tight one is set to determine if my wrist calibration is in the ball park. its the kind with a scale and a pointer that deflects as you twist. Prob good for low torque readings.

read then work.. I went back and torqued the TC bushing body side to 40 (fsm has 33-40, not tight until it feels like the inner spacer is bottoming like I did).

well one test drive and again I see the same oil accumulation around the passenger side of the oil pan, right at the gasket, same as before. Oh well I did not really think it was the problem, I suspect the real issue is the rear main. Will end up torching off the exhaust down tube nuts OR paying OR maybe can I get away with unbolting at the catalytic converter to get the trans out (remove the exhaust for there on back to gain access to driveshaft and clearance for trans drop.

That HP has a regulated power supply and is SUPER accurate on the voltage scales, once its been calibrated anyway.

if you like the Simpson I bet you would love the HP410 VTVM.

OK here is how it went, 17mm came off pretty with box wrench on passenger side, driver I needed the air impact, still no big deal. After I got those loose I did the 14mm again no big deal other than digging thru the top layer of grease/grime from the leaking ball joints. Using the new AC delco parts I put it back in using two quick squeeze grip clamps to compress the bushing/washer enough to get the nut started. The driver side was a bit more of a challenge due to the heat shield making less room for the clamp, still not too hard just a bit fidlley. tightened up until I could tell it was bottoming out on the metal sleeve. The 14mm's dropped right in (I had the car on ramps so everything pretty much just lines up) tighten them up and done. I will revisit those when I get the ball joints, prob do the sway links then too. Oh one more thing, the ramps make it just a bit hard to get the air tools to work (if I had a shorter socket it would have been fine) as the ramp gets in the way a bit. I did have to hold the bolt from the top of course, but I found a little trick for that as well. Using a box wrench to hold it, I have a super powerful rare earth magnet that I stick to the wrench handle and some metal part of the car. this secures the top wrench well freeing up both hands to work the bottom.

yes it was me, I have it on the ramps right now after doing the pan. May tackle the TC tomorrow.

I used a OE from Nissan, its a rubberized looking cork type. I got it in, (sorry no pics, way too oily) so for so good. what was in there was just black rubber. After banging out the dent, I cleaned it in very hot soapy water (mainly I wanted all the grime off since it was a messy job already, and I wanted a nice clean surface for the bolt hard ware to seat into), tied on the gasket with dental floss so it would not flop around, applied some sealant at the joint of the rear main bearing cap and the timing cover (per the FSM), then carefully worked the pan back into position. I would say the rod journal was about 4 or 8 O'clock. this had the counter balance just peeking down and the rod bolt up high enough to not hang up the pan. Just slowly wiggle the pan into place (the floss idea was great, can't recall where I read about it) cut the floss out, and use a phillips head screwdriver to make sure all the gasket holes are in the right place. few nuts to hang the pan on then all the bolts checking to make sure the holes in the gasket were where they should be. I used several tools a 10mm socket on a stubby 1/4 drive, a box ratchet, a box offset, an extension, and fingers only on the ones under the cross member until I could finally get to them with the box ratchet and off set box. Just snug and even all the way around in a series of tightening. It was actually pretty easy just tedious on those 4, that is once the seal was broken getting the pan off. Next up will be prob some suspension work while I debate with myself about paying for the trans swap or doing myself. The TC bushing look bad, and the ball joint boots are gone so its a big mess. I got some Sankei 555 ball joints on the way. So the plan is to do the ball joints/TC bush/sway bar link bush (the look bad too) and maybe the sway bar bushing (not sure of the condition as they are pretty much hidden by the mount.

Yes it was #1 I will see if I can get a pic or video. Not exactly sure where the piston was, just that it was hanging up on the rod bolts, which would lead me to think it was not at tdc. The thing is its not that hard just spin the crank by hand a bit while you look to see whats in the way. Hardest part was making that 1st break of the pan from the engine. For a bit there I did not think it was coming off.

well after the jack slipped off the cross member and smacked the oil pan leaving a nice dent, I decided it was time to replace the gasket (and bang out the dent). after making sure I could replace the 4 bolts under the cross member (just wanted to be able to put it back together as I knew getting them out was hard and getting them in would be harder), I removed all the bolts and tapped around the pan with a rubber mallet. Ha it said I pity the fool that thinks that will do anything. I did not want to try and pry it for fear of damaging the mating surfaces. What ended working was vice grip plyers attached to the part of the lip that extends downward. I was able to exert enough downward force by pulling on those that the seal broke and then it was pretty easy. Now that its loose I used my shop light to peer in at the front of the pan, noticed I had to turn the crank about 1/4 turn to get the connecting rod up enough to let the pan slide out. Came out easy after that. scraped off the old gasket, banged out the dent in the front of the pan, cleaned out the hard crap in the bottom of the pan. done for the night. Will do a more through cleaning this weekend and reinstall. I have had a leak near the back of the pan which I assume is the rear main, but the rear of the pan seemed overly wet with oil as well. I presume its just rear main oil coming thru and getting that part wet, but at least I will know its NOT the pan gasket now.

again to confirm all this, start with a new set of spark plugs, drive around for a day, then pull the plugs and post up some pics. It would be nice to confirm the rich condition and the plugs. If rich, then next up is a series of test starting with (as mentioned before) sensor readings at the ECU, primary of which would be the temp sensor. CSV is a suspect, and of course fuel pressure. there is an throttle pos switch and of course the AFM. Did the old manifold have a O2 sensor (think its too early for that) and what about EGR?

maybe I am just overthinking this. never mind.

while I was under the car snapping the down pipe bolt, I happened to notice the TC bushing looks in pretty sad shape, crack radiating from the center. anyway I have some new bushing and everywhere is see people are replacing with the wheels off and the suspension hanging. This seems to put the TC rod in sharp angle that seems like it would make it harder to compress and install the new bushings. Is there a reason not to just do them when the car is on the ramps and the suspension is at a normal ride height? same applies to the sway bar end link bushings?

yes a pic of the plug will confirm the air fuel mixture.

how do the plugs look? a pic would be helpful.

seems like a picture would help.

Good to know. I was pretty bummed out when I realized it was broke.

maybe once I get the manifold off will have a better idea (weld nut to stud). I did buy some reverse drill bits if case I have to drill it out. looking into the Oxy/Ace torch for the other 2 that are still in. while looking into that, I decided to try one more thing. I have a small cap filled with evap o rust (great product) that the stud is soaking in. I used a magnet to hold it in place while it works its way into the stud/nut, figured it can hurt.

I tried the soapy water, did not see bubbles but did not spray near the AFM where the smoke was leaking. The cigar trick worked very well. helps to have someone else looking and using a flash light inside with no wind.

well tried cigar smoke same deal, plugged up the tail pipe and air filter. turns out I had a leak just after the AFM, tighen up the hose clame and will try again. Have to wait a bit for the taste of the cigar to get out, yuck.