Dave WM

Guess it depends if you want the EGR to function as it should.

looks like control the EGR, makes sure it does not operate (open) until engine is warmed up. You don't want EGR and a cold engine.

directly to the side of the round rear main is a parting line for the rear bearing cap. there is a rubber seal that can leak making the same problem as the rear main. You will see oil seeping out of it from the rear view of the crank case with the flywheel out of the way. In my case it was leaking more than the rear main.

I really want to see the side seal, I am just paranoid about that one, it caused me so much grief.

I used one like that as well, super easy with the right tool. Bring on the pics!!!

Red line MT90 trans GL-4 Red line 80W140 Diff GL-5 (based on my temp range) that is what I use as well. Red line often comes up as a good brand, I have no idea if other brands are better or worse, but I figured it was in line with the FSM so (GL-4/GL-5) and red line MT90 mentions non corrosive to brass right on the label. On the brass issue, I have opened up a couple transmissions, on one of them the brass looked like brass the other looked like bronze (duller browner color). I have no idea if this had anything to do with the oils that had been used, after all its been over 40 yrs, but there was a noticeable difference.

I would not do that, use the GL-5, the diffs are noisy enough with the recommended oils.

is that the diff you have listed the GL-5 for? if so that not a problem. its the trans that has the brass in it.

pretty sure the FSM can cover the w for expected temps, I would just use that. Consensus (that guy knows a lot) says use yellow metal safe in the trans (brass anti balk rings) GL4, MT90 is often mentioned, and its what I have in mine.

wow top gear AND OD gear switch. lots of switches on some of those. Doc1.docx Doc1.docx

found it figure BE154 in the body electrical section under discussion about the interlock. pretty sure a "buck up" is supposed to read "back up". trans.pdf

I looked for it on the on line fsm, talk about it in the BE-104 but no pic, I could see it on my hard copy FSM.

Neutral/4th gear/reverse light. Its detailed in the FSM, the only one you need is the reverse light switch. I am pretty sure the neutral is for the interlock mech that keeps the car from starting unless everyone is seated and buckled up. I got tired of reading it. the 4th gear switch maybe something with the ign advance. did not see it on 1st pass of the FSM. I did not see it in my online copy but was in the hard copy book I have.

while you have the flywheel out of the way for the rear main, take a look for signs of oil seepage from the rear bearing block side seals, now is the time to see if they are leaking.

get some pics of the action if you can, always fun to see what others are doing.

Glad you are making good progress. Are you planning to do the rear main while you have the trans off?

nope the just pop in, retained with clips. a good yank and they should come out, just be careful not to damage the seals if you start prying on them to get loose. I would use two crow bars on opposite sides, pry against the flange and the diff, again watch out for damaging the seal area. putting them in just push in until clicks.

Ordered up some new jute (mac's) will use the old one as a pattern as it was pretty beat up where you heel rides on the floor board. The OE carpet looks pretty good, some of the rubber backing is missing and or cracking off. Would like to refurb that, may go with some kind of spray on flexable backing. Maybe plastidip spray.

I tried to get thru that section about the interlock and 4th gear, glad my CA car did not have it.

seems there is a 4th gear switch out there as well as a neutral switch perhaps as some kind of lock out for safety when starting without the key. Think the 4th gear had to do with ign timing. Do you have a little box near the battery with a push button switch on it?

yes. That connector has oil pressure, reverse light, AT inhibit and starter motor solenoid wire. The AT inhibit seems odd on a manual, can you start you car with the clutch in while its in gear or do you have to go to neutral, and do you have a "neutral" idiot light some where? seems odd since I have a 75 and my 4 speed did not have those switches. I did see a boss that was not machined on the trans that is to the left of the fill plug. With all the experts on this forum I am sure someone will chime in on what those are on your 4 speed.

hmm got me on that one, only one you need for the 5 speed would be the bottom pic right of the fill plug.

On my 4 speed I only had the reverse light switch. I can't recall any other electrical connectors. Maybe an auto would have a neutral but you are going from a 4speed. Maybe a pic of the old 4 speed would be a clue. Are you seeing maybe a wire that goes to a cat converter? that is in the area of the trans.

def consider those side seals, that was what did it for me, dry as a bone back there now. you can do it with the trans installed, just work the side seal and pan gasket at the same time. Get the car up safely with plenty of room to work, take your time, clean the surfaces real well and follow the FSM on location. Think I mentioned before, don't let the sealant setup before reinstalling the bearing retaining block, or maybe use an anaerobic type of sealant (have not tried that myself but sounds like an excellent idea).

also is the leak near the rear of the pan? the side seal will look like a pan gasket leak at the rear.