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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. I am still a bit confused as a buddy sent me some pics with his setup and it seemed the Z fan (mount ring closer to the back or so it appeared) fit much better into the shroud. I am going to pull the bottom shroud off, pull the fan, take the fan clutch off and do some measurement. My setup is stock, with a 3 row rad (after market copper brass), two groove crank pulley and the fan sits outside the back of the shroud about 1"
  2. ecu behind kick panel driver side.
  3. could not get the .mov to work, but generally speaking you should start by reading the plugs. running rich or lean will be a data point. Something to always look into is simple stuff like firing order and timing. don't know why they would change but once its out of your hands you can't be sure of anything. I see you changed the water temp sensor, did you check the resistance values at the ECU connector? This is important to make sure the wiring from the sensor to the ecu is correct and the values the ECU are correct for the given water temps. You mentioned fuel filter, have you checked the fue
  4. figured it out, see 1st post
  5. ah got this message Your cart contains item(s) that need(s) to be checked by us before your payment. Click "Submit order" to start this process. even though it had the final lower shipping price
  6. for fun I started a new order got as far as submit order selected japan surface post (vs fed ex) got it down to 80+27. did not pull the trigger to actually submit. I reviewed my old order and it was 75+46 back in 2019
  7. that's odd, did not have the problem with them.
  8. Never mind figure it out, I see there are two styles of fans, one for the 3 row crank pulley (zx power steering) vs the 2 row. I must have picked up a zx fan at a JY at some point, had it installed on my spare engine, and was using it for a comparison to my daily. The fan clutch is not an issue at all.
  9. oil pumps generally don't go bad unless there has been severe abuse. Plus they are easy to replace, you don't need a new spindle unless the old one is damaged. AND you don't need to remove the spindle to replace the pump. Just remove the dizzy, grab the tang with some locking pliers (gently here) and unbolt the old pump. remove it leaving the spindle intact. then get the new pump fill it with oil, get a new gasket, and orient it so the oil pump drive fits the tang, don't turn the tang turn the oil pump. This way you don't have to worry about clocking the dizzy drive correctly. tighten oil
  10. The head gasket comment prob due to having never done this before. If you are careful you can preserve the existing head gasket, you just have to exercise some care when re installing it. the TC cover slides just under the gasket surface, if you ham fist it, you could bugger up the gasket. You want to pull the oil pan down a bit and kind of tilt the TC cover into place with the gap at the bottom of the pan providing clearance while sliding in. there are alignment dowels so once you get it started under the head gasket the dowels will come into play and get everything lined up. here is the
  11. ok I was off on the shipping but the cover was 80$ https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13501a8600 so 130$ for a brand new one. I got one this way, the casting was not as smooth on the outside but still perfectly useable and the machined parts (the surfaces that matter) looked perfect. a Good machine shop should have no problem fixing what you have, but it may cost more than a new one (I really have no idea, but just in case you now know what a new cost so you can make that call on new or refurb).
  12. 1st off you can buy a brand new TC from japan I think it was about 90$ pls shipping around 30$ Next you do not need to remove the valve cover and you do not need anything more than the TC cover gaskets (2 gaskets get them from Nissan). you prob should replace the water pump while at it. for the amount of work to have it professionally repaired you could get a new cover. I have a 4 part video on this, you can find it at Dave WM on you tube.
  13. if any evidence of side seals leaking on rear main bearing cap, do those. Not sure I would mess with them if no leakage was noted. you can tell easy with the flywheel off while doing the rear main seal.
  14. pretty wizz poor job on my part from the 1st time I replaced the TC cover (after the tight side chain guide failed. If you look closely you can see the green dye coolant in the weep channel. All done, no seepage so far looking good. videos coming.
  15. Well its a ton easier to replace than the master that's for sure. Hardest part for me bleeding it. I tried the vacuum pump approach (no helper) that did not really work out well. With my helper it was done in just a few cycles. Again the diff in throw was what really amazed me. I hope to be making my east coast trip in the coming months, are you going to be in NC? I need a few stops to stretch my legs, looking for some Z people to yak at. I was hoping to make it to Mt Mitchell maybe keep going depending on how the trip goes. Looking at I think it was the 301 out of Florida, seems to
  16. Are you replacing the slave as well? a few weeks back I started having issues getting the proper feel on the clutch (and would grind if I tried to engage). I too did the lets bleed it, perhaps I goofed it last time I did a maintenance fluid replacement. I seemed better but a few weeks later started acting up. the Clutch would not disengage even when it was freshly blead until it was all the way to the floor. I bought the Nissan master and slave getting ready for the operation. about a week ago I noticed a drop of brake fluid on the bottom of the slave bellows. At that time I replaced just the
  17. wow you can get repro glass with the vert grid. I did not see any for 280z with horz grid lines. Considering the effort to try and fix it by hand I would be interested in that. I presume the repro grid is like the OE and not some stick on variety? or if it is a stick on its the same quality as OE? I never got back to trying my masking tape designed for pin stripes. I was planning g on doing that when I pull the hatch to install the outer rubber seal, just have not gotten to it (my rolling restoration wants to keep rolling more than restoring...)
  18. what are your engine temps when starting? as mentioned its really only for cold climates, I presume your location is cold now. When the EFI is working right it pretty much starts in a fraction of a second. and you can drive right off. it works well when everything is perfect. I don't know if you car has an o2 sensor, if so it is a little smarter in that it can go into closed loop and try to compensate for problems with the fuel mix. the early ones (like my 75) work great as long as every sensor/injector is work properly. The is no feed back from an o2 sensor for the ECU to compensate with. Gla
  19. Now you can trouble shoot that, it could also be the thermotime switch, less likely as it tends to fail off, but easy to find out. try hooking up the CSV to a 12v source, use some clip leads to it and supply a 12v (unplug the csv from the wire harness, connect the 12 directly to the csv, never the harness) it should "click". if not its prob stuck, you maybe able to get some carb cleaner into it and try cycling it a lot with the outside source. Not a bad idea to run some good fuel injector cleaner with your next tank full of gas. I thought about it more, the thermotime ONLY gets 12v durin
  20. the cold start valve is supposed to inject fuel when temps are low, its controlled by the thermo/time switch. Its fires only when its cold and only while the ign key is in the "start" position, and then it should only fire for no more that 9 seconds. IF for some reason the Cold Start Valve (CSV) is stuck open, it will just shoot gas constantly into the intake manifold. You can try disabling it by pinching off the fuel line that goes to it. Be gentle with the hose connection, the CSV is plastic and being old you could break it. They are expensive. Another source of excess fuel causing
  21. are the plugs wet? if you suspect flooding you may want to make sure the CSV is not stuck open. so nothing was changed prior to the non start?
  22. "we do it right cause we do it twice" (Mustei1) Yesterday was removal day, today was surface prep day, I did a much better job of trying to get every remnant of old gasket material off than I did the 1st time. LOTS or scraping and solvents. I looked at the coolant passages, it was clear the gasket/rtv I used was not doing its job. I think I may have been a contaminant on the surface as there was practically no bond between the gasket and the cover. This time I was careful to use brake clean and not touch either the block or the cover after dousing with brake clean. when the
  23. its a mechanical VR, I have not had a recurrence of the orig problem since replacing the alt. I wish I had kept the core to evaluate. Now the only issue is an occasional flux, happens at idle and after the car has warmed up some and there is a load beyond just the EFI, like the fan or light. No more wild swings that last or flare up of voltages (head lights flare up) since the change. My SWAG is after warm up my idle is less stable, prob due to leaner mix, I have it set up pretty darn lean (pulling the dip stick can effect the idle, remove the oil filler and it dies in a second). I may ri
  24. yes that is the plan I just have to make a better hookup to the meter. I was also going to try and simulate the intermittent by poking around the wiring harness, tapping the VR etc to see if I can locate. This setup has a better resolution and I can see it while poking under the hood.
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