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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. ok this is a long shot.. IF the can the thermistor sits in gets plugged up by junk in the tank, I suppose its possible the small holes in the can could become blocked. this would prevent fuel from cooling the thermistor, allowing heat to build and resistance to drop. I would pull the sending unit, look it over real well for the small holes I mention, maybe even use a small exacto blade to open them up a tiny bit, and try it again. IIRC from some of the new units being made, the holes may be the issue, esp in a old tank. after clearing/opening up the holes test it before reinstalling. you want to see bubbles come out of the can when immersed into a fluid, then drain out again when removed. I presume the can and hole size is setup to act as a damper slow the on off process.
  2. ok so its brand new, two months old, works perfect, as in it would come on when tank was nearly empty. I mean I rarely see mine come on as I rarely get down that low on fuel. so approx how many times did it work? off and on at low fuel? describe the way it came on, suddenly or slowly when it was working.
  3. geez this keeps coming up. I would recommend you pull the unit out of the tank and bench test it with a 12v source and the light used in the car. could be you just have the wrong light, pulling too much current causing the thermistor to run away.
  4. I understand its very non compatible with water, so if you have any problems on the road, like a coolant leak, bad water pump, etc that need a field repair, it could make matters more complicated.
  5. if its really that loud, you should try bench running it. a large drill and some rubber hose over the input shaft. I know its a long way off from actual loads and rpms, but its fun and who knows maybe something will turn up.
  6. if you were not having issues with sycrhonization i would tend to let it be. there are measurements that you can take to see how much wear there is (gaps) to give you some idea about how much life you have. If you decide to replace them there is a guy on youtube that does nothing but transmissions. i cant recall him but a search should find easy. He goes into great detail about what to look for as far as the brass parts are concerned.
  7. I have attempted to highlight the areas that are diff at least on the B model
  8. I found a pic of what I was trying to describe in my 75/76 FSM. Its fig MT-28 on page MT-8 they show two "synchronizer hubs" front is 3rd & 4th (move the sleeve one way to lock 3rd to the main shaft, move it the other to lock the input to the output no gears. there is also an illustration of the 1st & 2nd "synchronizer hub". If you look carefully at the see thru side view you will see how 3rd and 4th have an offset while 2nd & 3rd look to be symetrical.
  9. iirc the forward most servo hub is directional, unlike the others. not sure but i think is possible to go in the wrong way. I dont know if this could cause the clunk issue, but i would recommend you look at it very closely and check the fsm. I think it mentions this.
  10. double check the front cover. The shim will tend to stick to that on the counter shaft bearing recess. Its easy to not notice it, and if that happens its easy for it to eventually get lost as the cover picked up and moved around. The oil is pretty sticky but eventually it will fall out. I assume its there to maintain the proper mesh of the gears, if the gears get too far out of mesh they start rubbing into the hubs, it will make an awful sound, you can see this by just moving the shafts out of alignment. I don't know if the tiny bit of miss alignment cause by a missing shim (there are different thickness shims out there I assume for production tolerance compensation. You need to follow the FSM and use a micrometer to see if you need one and what the thickness should be.
  11. the mesh is also maintained by the counter shaft shims in the front cover that act on the outer race of the front counter shaft bearing.
  12. my guess is there is something wrong with the wipe pattern on the rockers? if the head was machined i may need shims under the cam towers. You should ask if it was machined, was it machined both top and bottom and how much was taken off. Was it machined to make flat (warped) if so its my understanding the top would need to be machined as well. I it was machined to just clean up the surface (not warped) then the top would not need machining would still have to be shimmed. The how to rebuld your L28 book covers all this.
  13. I assume the tires are and rims are ok? I had a pretty bad shake, I ended up getting new tires and steel rims, after that all good (they looked fine, i have to assume they may have been deformed from a long period of non use by po. How did you determine the inner tie rods were bad? I assume some measure of end play? where the boots shot? I would think the orig would be good for well over 100k assuming they were protected from elements.
  14. slow brute force is a good way to bend things. You want sharp small impacts. Double nut it so you have something solid to rattle on, back up the rod with metal (not wood), hit it with the impact hammer. I learned my lesson about using impact when I tried to remove the rear stub axle with a slide hammer. It was the 1st time I used the slide hammer with the puller designed for hubs. The fitting did not exactly match up hole wise, but I was able to loosely get it to fit with some wheel nuts. I tried whacking the hammer a bunch, nothing happened. I was looking at youtube some some mentioned getting the puller on tight. I just assumed even loosed the force would be transmitted eventually with the slide hammer. I went back and did a better job and got the fitting on tight to the hub. One half a$$ try and the hub popped out. Sharp impacts and dont let the force dissipate (like the rod would do if not backed up) is crucial.
  15. there hole that is being used to access the pin is the hole for the reverse lockout mech. I doubt nissan was concerned about the pin removal. That being said, I think a rattle hammer and backing up the rod with something solid (metal) would release the pin quickly.
  16. sounds good. I would do a pressure check with nitrogen, look for leaks with soapy water. I think this is a better test than just checking for holding a vacuum, the system after all operates under pressure not a vacuum. But I suppose the vacuum method must be fine as that is what you generally read up on. I would let the vacuum pump run for at least 1 hour to make sure you get as much of the air molecules and boil of any water as possible.
  17. I have read on the internet (for what that is worth) that Ester oil is compatible with both PAG and Mineral oil (the stuff used with R-12). So maybe a retro fit (that is where you reuse at least one thing like the evap) should use Ester. Another reminder is to change out the hoses for barrier hoses (again a internet piece of info) as supposedly R-12 hoses will allow smaller molecule gases to pass thru. IF I ever switch out for R-134a my plan is to go with all new stuff, including the evap. I have a new evap that uses a standard commonly used expansion valve. Its all alum just like the orig. With that I would go to a PF condenser, hoses and new compressor and of course a generic drier. That being said, The R-12 in my car is still working fine after 5 years since I got the car, the compressor is noisy has been for 5 years and needless to ssy I use it a lot in Florida. The noise has not changed in my ownership. My plan is to leave it be, if it goes then I will do the complete job. As far as flushing the evap, sounds like a good idea if you want to be sure, but the bigger issue is that darn expansion valve. Honestly I would just pop for the new unit, its about 400$ IIRC.
  18. its those crimps i was considering soldering, maybe next time I have a reason to pull the fuse box. They looked very good last time I had it off, I was thinking about it, but I can't remember if the spring clips were fastened to the fuse box (in which case heat from the solder iron may be an issue) of if the removable (perhaps snap in like). Oh and yes it was the 2 from the bottom left side "Dome" light fuse that was for the hazards. The IR gun was not a good idea, as you mentioned the resolution was not good enough to narrow down to the exact fuse. I agree the FLIR would be perfect, a nice diagnostic tool to have. I have a youtube friend that uses one all the time looking for too hot parts on PCB's and point to point chassis.
  19. I was starting to cramp up, otherwise I would have pursued the hazards. Getting into those tight spaces is harder the older you get. As an experiment, I am going to try using the IR gun to see if I can pick up the heat off the fuses to see which ones are active. Just a tiny bit easier than popping them one by one. You may note the small O rings on the right hand side, 2nd from the bottom. That is the AC fuse. That one runs hot if you use "MAX" ac. Now the manual calls that "emergency" or something level of cooling. So I guess they realized it was a weak point. My fuse box is in good shape and I have done my best to clean the contacts. the heat is generated at the ends of the fuse connection (the springs). My use of o rings was an attempt to tighten this area up, over the years I am sure it has lost some tension. I have considered trying to replace those spring ends, maybe solder the crimp connections if that is adding heat (the spring ends are crimped to the wires on the bottom of the fuse box), but i have found since adding the o rings the issue is manageable. The problem with the excess heat is it will over time melt the plastic top right over the fuse. since the o rings the melting is not happening, but you do need to check to make sure the O rings are holding up over time.
  20. if there is no video it did not happen..
  21. build date 5/75 turn signal fuse forth up from bottom left side of fuse block. Note this was not the same as the hazard, I presume since the hazards work regardless of ign switch (turn signals need to be ign "ON").
  22. I think its 75% OF the R12 charge in the same system. Not "more". May want to double check this.
  23. sounds fine, maybe the microphone in the camera was making is sound louder, I mean it was REALLY loud before, more than a typical valve tic.
  24. That drier is hard to come by. Somehow a local AC shop got one for me, so you could try there, perhaps they have a wholesaler that can supply. The other option if you have the old one is if you can find a rebuilder, yes they can be cut open and refurbished. I can understand wanting it to be as OE as possible but, in this case I don't think its worth the effort, Just rebend the hard line and go for the cheap 15$ generic drier.
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