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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. ok yes if he clamped the correct hose and it did not hold, then you have a problem. I would start by smoking out the system, you should be able to feed back thru that same hose and look for smoke. If i recall correctly you can back feed that line. However a better solution to duplicate his test would be to clamp the same hose an rig up a way to smoke from the filler since that is what he did. maybe just a smoke hose and some damp rags to fill around the opening. fyi the correct canister hose would be the one that goes to a hard line and heads back to the tank.
  2. odd, "gross" for result is not pass or fail. the tank has a restriction valve from the overflow tank (not sure if that is the right name for it, its small tank located near the filler) that takes fumes from the tank and passes them thru the carbon canister. so the tank is always vented but fumes are captured in the charcoal. not sure how it was tested, unless they just put pressure into the tank and thru the filler hole and measured the PSI to see how rapidly the pressure would blead off (the same way a compression leak down test done on cylinders can tell the % of blead down. Did you observe how the test was performed? I suppose if the restriction valve was not functioning correctly then it could be the problem. Maybe a simple fix would be to insert a restriction into the line to the carbon canister, prob being you dont know what amount of restriction they are looking for. again this assume you have not modified the fuel vapor emissions systems at all. IF they are simply seeing if the tank holds pressure with the engine off, then they don't understand how the system works. Its not computer controlled with purge valves operated by a computer.... the car predates such things.
  3. indeed how is the voltage at idle when fully loaded with demand. I have stock setup including no extra items that increase current draw over the OE needs That being said I do go into a slight discharge mode when idle is at 800 rpm and all electrical is on (head lights, fan, AC clutch, blinkers, wipers) That being said its only at idle, as soon as I get to about 1.1k rpm I am in charge mode (I have an ammeter not a volt meter on my 75). My work around was to bump up the idle when the AC is on to about 1.1k rpm. This keeps me in charge most of time when sitting still in traffic as the AC comes on a lot here in Florida, and the fan draw is generally what puts it into discharge mode.
  4. the large connector that attaches to the ECU. refer to the FSM for the pins to check see the fuel injection section. there is a diagram that you can follow.
  5. best theft prevention is to leave the car in the garage, and when parking it, park somewhere you can keep an eye on it. The garage doubles as a rust prevention measure as well.
  6. any time you have a cold running issue that goes away at warm up you need to check the water temp sensor resistance while the engine is cold AT THE 35 PIN CONNECTOR. read the fsm on what you should see. perhaps you have already done this.
  7. glad you got it going. The thing about mechanical stuff is you need to actually use it, long periods of inactivity are not good for moving parts.
  8. ok 15v but it should not go that high for long. Ideally I like to see 14v max.
  9. I was not talking about the SS VR but the one you just installed. the FYI 16v was just that FYI not about the mechanical one you are trying to get working.
  10. fyi should nver be near 16v, 14v max. the Mechanical VR are very easy to trouble shoot, break out the FSM and study the circuit. its pretty simple, two relays, one duty cycles the alt field coil with battery voltage to maintain output, the other relay operates the charge light and prevent current flow thru the alt windings when the car is not running. IF the mechanical VR is at fault, its generally going to be relay contacts corroded or an open or shorted coil.
  11. 1/3 sounds about right, hook it up to a 12v source and check it again in about 10 minutes, should be closed. Note its not a precision part, will still pass air even closed, just some restriction. unplug it and check it again in about 1 hr, should be back to the original opening of 30%-40%. It uses a bimetallic strip with an built in heater to open and close, so its takes some time, as designed. Make sure you use a 12v source (to test) that can flow a decent amount of current with out to much voltage drop i would guess its prob 1/5 amp or so.
  12. thanks! I presume the . is the same. I looked at car parts manual online and I could not see it. will try a 240z there as well
  13. can anyone confirm the type of screw used in the middle of the piller trim? I think i see a screw and washer (machine screw) but mine is missing so now sure. its the only place that has a small hole on the trim piece the rest uses the rivnuts (plastic).
  14. and I see an electrolytic cap in there, def beyond life. would be fun to check it for ESR.
  15. all done, lost the plastic pins on the rivnuts but other than that no drama and fits great.
  16. maybe this is common knowledge but if not, I found the part 21200-ET01A is a perfect fit (just remove the rubber gasket it comes with) 82c T stat for use in then L28. this one was in stock at the local dealership if you are in a hurry. it looks like 21200-P7901 is the one you find when searching
  17. I had a problem with my external VR alt on my 75, would spike intermittantly, the fix was a new alternator. I never got a chance to dig into the problem as I was on the road and turned in the bad one for the core. That being said I would suggest you make sure all the cables from the alt to starter positive are in good shape, and check engine harness ground (pass side near the strut tower). The alt or the VR for external regulated needs a good battery and ground reference to know what it should regulate too. Check the battery cables too.
  18. AV8, let me know how the glove box door fitment works out for you.
  19. roger that, just wanted to make sure that was needed.
  20. this is the vertical one that attaches to the front of the quarter glass with screws and seal against the window frame. I am having some issues on the removal, it seems like I need to remove the quarter glass at least at the top (tilt it out maybee?) to get the very top of the old seal to remove. This looks like the case base on the new replacement. It seems like it has to wrap around a lip at the top from of the quarter glass. Has anyone messed with these? and if so any tips on the seal remove and install? the screws all came out easy, and I released the adhesive all where it was stuck down (the bottom edge and the top under the door weather seal). The only part that is holding me up in stuck behind the quarter glass at this point. I thought I could tug it out, and then fish the replacement back into the same area with some lube and a plastic tool to easy it in place, but it really is stuck in there tight and the old one does not want to be pulled free (it would prob break off the piece then I would have to for sure remove the quarter glass to clear it out to make room for the new piece).
  21. I think barrier hoses are used with the R-134 re smaller size mole. that being said new hoses are prob in order regardless if you plan to use different condensor and compressor. If you want to go with just changes to under the hood, I would go with a PF condenser generic that fits the opening in the core support. You may have to relocate the drier as I think most PF have fittings on the same side. Not sure about this...
  22. that looks like a good oil to use. I have used Valvoline VR1 20/50 and or Rotella T4 (diesel) 15/40. It rarely gets below 60's here (colder than that I generally stay indoors 🙂 )
  23. are you going to use a radiator shroud? There are brass and copper radiators out there new. things to watch out for is the drain hole location if you still have the splash pan, and the filler neck overflow direction depending on how you want to deal with then over flow. I like the copper brass types over aluminum.
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